Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Few pictures and a couple questions. See if anyone can help. Just want to remove the canister and associated plumbing. I had a 95' 900 SS/SP, and it was configured differently. This one (98' FE) has some additional plumbing with an object about half way to the canister that I can't identify (see photos). Chances are that the owner of the 95' I bought did some work to eliminate this before I bought it, so I never saw it configured correctly... Anyway, bottom line, I'd just like some advice on how to cap the holes in the intake tubes (pictured) once I pull the hose (there's a mating screw with a small air hole it in... that needs to be capped) and where to route the line that comes from the gas tank once I dump all the superfluous plumbing. The check valve coming off the gas tank may have failed too, but I won't know until I get all of the plumbing disconnected from it. Thanks.

Pix are (hopefully) posted in order from gas tank to canister.

Cheers
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
The random object is likely a one way check valve...keeps gas from spilling out...keep that one in place

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The silver item just above the tank is the check valve.... I'm talking about the white plastic object in the plumbing about half way to the canister. The while line is so blocked that if I pull the line off the tank after a short ride, it depressurizes so much it sounds like someone letting the air out of a balloon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Ducvet

For the bikes to be "California compliant," you'll need the canister. BUT, once the bike is sold from the origin (at least for now), there are no emissions check on bikes thereafter. Only standard annual renewal of registration. Also, the bike came from out of state. California got sued years ago for charging people for bringing in cars from out of state... making them bring the vehicles into compliance with CA law. I recall my ex-wife getting a huge refund check from California DMV with an apology letter. AND, this bike is now 21 years old. If the law changes at all, which it's not currently scheduled to, it'll take a few years for that to be put in place... and at age 25, the bike is an 'antique,' and no longer subject to any standards. I want this stuff gone. It's a mess of tubing and does nothing. The canister is likely clogged and unusable anyway. I'll have to find some screws to plug the holes. Any idea what that white plastic object is in the plumbing?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,473 Posts
A check valve makes sense to me to be honest I have never looked into it just removed them. Totally get cleaning up the hoses BUT.... on many bikes I keep the hoses that go TO the canister from the manifolds and after they tee together I cap the single line. This single line makes fogging the motor a very easy job as you simply spray fogging oil into the one hose while running the bike and quickly and efficiently fog both cylinders.

Air cooled bikes are the wild card because we all like them as bare as possible so the choice is no hoses or easy fogging. Given your location if you do not run race fuel or store your bike for months at a time you may not need to fog anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yea... the riding season in N. California is.... about January 1 to December 31. Haha. Just kidding. There's a few cool days... and a couple rainy ones. I think I'll just dump all of that and put a simple check valve in to keep it from dumping gas all over the place. Cheers everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
hypermo

Doesn't it have to flow both directions? The check valve you posted says it goes one way only... I think the check valve on this bike is supposed to: 1. Keep gas from coming out when the tank heats up from the engine and sunshine (expansion), and 2., replace air in the tank as the fuel level decreases. It'll need to be a two way, or nothing, me thinks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,473 Posts
The silver aluminum check valve coming out of your tank is all you need, it is a one way valve. Yes air needs to pass into the tank and fuel should not come out the hose under braking, you will find a arrow on the valve. It is not a super strong check valve so if you blow hard enough you get air through in both directions so least resistance going into the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Perfect! Thanks for the info. I'll be pulling most of the plumbing out this evening and will leave the silver check valve... with the tube going into the center of the tree, and route it down where all the other drain tubes live. Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
On thing I love about this forum is that people ask for help, get some good guidance, then pop back on and share the results. All benefit this way. Here's the end of my story. I pulled the canister and associated plumbing out completely. I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and got a set of vacuum caps for a couple bucks. Installed. Pulled the check valve, inspected it and put a new hose on it. Installed the hose down the hole in the tree. And done. See pix if interested (postmortem canister and plumbing, vacuum caps on the vacuum ports, and finished product. Easy money. Time investment? 5 minutes. Thanks to everyone who helped. Cheers.
 

Attachments

1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top