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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’ve been trying to solve a leak near the clutch slave. I’ve replaced the slave, the clutch rod seals, and the bearing is good as the rod spins freely. Looks like the fluid leaking is clutch fluid. I can see the leak from the bottom of the clutch slave. What am I missing on this leak? Been months of tying to figure it out.
 

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usually it'd be engine oil leaking from between the alternator cover and crankcases due to the sealant failing, coming out the clutch pushrod.
 

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If you have replaced the clutch cylinder seal and you still have a clutch fluid leak then either the new seal is bad, the piston or cylinder in which it slides is scored or the clutch fluid is leaking from somewhere else, most likely the bleed nipple or the line connection point. You have checked everything else. I've not had to do this job (yet). Is the clutch piston seal a one-way type that has to be fitted in the correct direction? If so, did you put it in the correct way around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have an Oberon clutch slave. There is no o ring that fits with it. So slave goes on the pushrod only. Should there be an o ring there? Oberon seems to say theirs is embedded in the slave but what keeps the slave and crank case connection from leaking there?
 

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Shouldn’t be any oil in there. If there is, there’s a problem. Is there any evidence of a chain derailment? My alternator cover was cracked from one prior to my ownership.

It was maddening to track down. Once I pulled the cover, the crack was quite evident from the inside.

BTW, I had to remove the countershaft cover as well as the front sprocket in order to see the damage from chain derail. It was invisible due to all the old chain lube built up in there.

Also BTW, this happened on 2 different Ducati’s. Both my 996 and my 900SS. The one on the SS was so bad, even the crankcase half is cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hum. I took the slave off and the push rod out and let it sit. I could see oil coming from the pushrod hole. I assume that’s engine oil and the pushrod seals would keep that oil from coming out. Is this right?
 

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you need to remove the alternator cover and reseal it. not sure there's any point saying that again though.
 

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Hum. I took the slave off and the push rod out and let it sit. I could see oil coming from the pushrod hole. I assume that’s engine oil and the pushrod seals would keep that oil from coming out. Is this right?
No. The push rod goes through the lay shaft and out into the clutch basket. There should not be any oil in there at all. Not unless you have a wet clutch.

If there is and you have a dry clutch you have another problem. As belter points out, reseal the alternator cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Does the alternator cover use a gasket for my model? I see people saying there is a gasket and other using sealant. Thanks.
 

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Either way works if it’s done right.
 

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What bike ? Wet or Dry clutch ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok I’ll try alternator cover. Does anyone know the size and type of screws used in the alternator cover and shift level mechanism that fits on the spindle? I figure a few may be striped at 20 years old. Thanks.
 

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Any chance you have the pushrod in backwards? the 2 o-rings should be on the left side.
Yes the inside of the shaft is oiled this is why you have 3 seals . (2 o-rings on pushrod and lipped seal in end of transmission shaft).
Stop and do a better job of diagnoses before tearing in more.


Put the bike in neutral, verify this.
pull slave and set off to side.
Do not remove pushrod from engine but verify o-rings are on left side and proud of the shaft.
degrease the area 100%
spray some powder (white foot powder works well) on the area. let sit until you have a white powdered coating.
start and run the bike looking at the area to see where the oil is coming from, the powder will start to darken as soon as it gets wet so it should show the origin of the leak.
If it is out of the pushrod hole start with a second set of o-rings use oem size and not hardware store o-rings.
If it is from the cover itself then yes back to pulling the cover.

alternator cover screws are 6x1.0mm 3 different lengths.
shift arm screw is a 6x1.0mm also but often has a shallow head
 
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