[Jaytron]

Here is my situation... Im pretty new to working on motorcycles and especially new to working on my Sport classic. I bought my 2006 SC1000 last year with 1400 miles on it. Everything but the clutch plate was mint. My only reference to how a motorcycle should run was a 2005 R6 and a 2007cbr 600RR. Those bikes you could start and go. This bike needs to warm up for a while till I can drive it and it wont die at the first stop light (letting the engine warm only reduces the chances). When I start it up to let it warm, 50% of the time it will die in idle by the first 5 minutes. I should also state it idles unevenly. Meaning it will sound faster and louder then creep back down to a slow lug. I tried a FATDUC O2 munipulater without much help. It just felt a little smoother in my midrange. What should my next step be? Should I get my ECU re-flashed? Should I consider remapping my fuel system? Any advice is appreciated.

PS I dont know if this is worth mentioning but I removed the charcoal box without any change and I have a few holes drilled into my baffles for added sound.

 

[muzzmann]

Here is my situation. Im pretty new to working on motorcycles and especially new to working on my Sport classic. I bought my 2006 SC1000 last year with 1400 miles on it. Everything but the clutch plate was mint. My only reference to how a motorcycle should run was a 2005 R6 and a 2007cbr 600RR. Those bikes you could start and go. This bike needs to warm up for a while till I can drive it and it wont die at the first stop light (letting the engine warm only reduces the chances). When I start it up to let it warm, 50% of the time it will die in idle by the first 5 minutes. I should also state it idles unevenly. Meaning it will sound faster and louder then creep back down to a slow lug. I tried a FATDUC O2 munipulater without much help. It just felt a little smoother in my midrange. What should my next step be? Should I get my ECU re-flashed? Should I consider remapping my fuel system? Any advice is appreciated.

PS I dont know if this is worth mentioning but I removed the charcoal box without any change and I have a few holes drilled into my baffles for added sound.

If its not sucking air somewhere then it sounds like the injectors are out of sync.....but remember these bikes are very cold-blooded and take some time to warm up. In addition the cam timing will be slightly off \ out of sync until the cylinders grow and the belts get tight ....

Muzz

 

[egrafx2006]

My '07 GT1000 never ran well (rough idle, stalling, hesitation, etc.) until I had Termis installed with DP air box and ECU. Big difference.

 

[muzzmann]

If properly tuned the bike should start cold with no issues (the computer should compensate and provide a rich mixture during warm up) ...once up to operating temp it should run smoothly without hesitation . If it doesnt it is not set up correctly.

When mine was in stock form it performed perfectly. No stalling, no hesitation...

Muzz

 

[RudolphHart]

For a 6-year old bike the mileage is very low, but it should still have been serviced during this time. Do you have a full service history with the bike?

If the bike hasn't been serviced, it could possibly be running the original cam belts - these ought to be changed if that is the case. It's hard to say too much without more information on the bike, but if you don't have a service history & you're not familiar with maintaining Ducatis then it may be worthwhile having a Ducati dealer/specialist check the bike over.

Good luck & keep us posted.

 

[egrafx2006]

One other issue the Termis solved was an annoying back fire on decel at around 3500 RPM. I had it in the shop several times to remedy all these issues and they even replaced the ECU with the European model, but nothing seemed get it to run right. I thought the stock ECU could not be adjusted? Anyway, Termis solved everything, not to mention the SOUND. This was before the Fat Duc was available.

 

[Jaytron]

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into some exhaust with a new ecu but I think first I'll have a full diagnostic done. God, I hope its nothing expensive...

 

[SPORT_CLASSIC_SPECIALTIES]

Should be only 1 hr shop time to run a
TPS reset
A/F ratio and co2
balance throttle bodies if needed

Have them check the air temp sensor too if they can

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into some exhaust with a new ecu but I think first I'll have a full diagnostic done. God, I hope its nothing expensive...

 

[tucoperk]

I bout mine used with 500 miles. Same issue. Brought it to the dealer. Minor adjustment. Was in the shop for 5 min...no charge. Works perfectly now!

 

[Nickpilot]

On a new MST1200 the Termis and their 'matched' ECU did NOT fix anything. From all I have learnt, it is highly unlikely that a 'generic' map (provided by Termi in the ECU they force you to buy) can possibly be anything other than a 'starting' point...and as you cannot get into the Mitsubish ECU (well, most of us can't), you have no choice but to go for a PCV....but then dont forget all the closed-loop issues...so you need to find a way round that...(as discussed in many places on this forum). It has been a steep and expensive leaning curve for me...almost there now...(I hope) (See my other posts).
Now of course it will work for 'some' people...but it is 'pot luck'.

 

[Jaytron]

I bout mine used with 500 miles. Same issue. Brought it to the dealer. Minor adjustment. Was in the shop for 5 min...no charge. Works perfectly now!

What was the minor adjustment?

 

[Faint]

My bike has the same issue and it's only getting worse...

Let me know what fixes yours. I'm proceeding with self-flashing my ECU at some point in time. I had the TPS reset which did nothing.

 

[Blitzen]

...

I removed the charcoal box without any change ....

What exactly did you do? Did you plug lines to the throttle bodies?

 

[greggers]

What exactly did you do? Did you plug lines to the throttle bodies?

That's pretty much it. If you want to get a nice pre-made solution, TPO parts makes a kit for $15 that has a couple screws and a Y-connector for the tank hoses. But the parts in it probably would cost about $3 if bought on your own

 

[greggers]

Here is my situation... Im pretty new to working on motorcycles and especially new to working on my Sport classic. I bought my 2006 SC1000 last year with 1400 miles on it. Everything but the clutch plate was mint. My only reference to how a motorcycle should run was a 2005 R6 and a 2007cbr 600RR. Those bikes you could start and go. This bike needs to warm up for a while till I can drive it and it wont die at the first stop light (letting the engine warm only reduces the chances). When I start it up to let it warm, 50% of the time it will die in idle by the first 5 minutes. I should also state it idles unevenly. Meaning it will sound faster and louder then creep back down to a slow lug. I tried a FATDUC O2 munipulater without much help. It just felt a little smoother in my midrange. What should my next step be? Should I get my ECU re-flashed? Should I consider remapping my fuel system? Any advice is appreciated.

PS I dont know if this is worth mentioning but I removed the charcoal box without any change and I have a few holes drilled into my baffles for added sound.

It's worth mentioning that the 06 models have a known issue with bad valve guides. I don't know specifically if your symptoms would be a result of that, but it's an avenue to investigate. And unfortunately an expensive one to have the dealer do.

Any Duc needs time to warm up though. The belts need several minutes to reach operating temperature (according to Ducati Desmodue/Desmotre Maintenance Guide)

 

[Blitzen]

That's pretty much it. If you want to get a nice pre-made solution, TPO parts makes a kit for $15 that has a couple screws and a Y-connector for the tank hoses. But the parts in it probably would cost about $3 if bought on your own

I was not asking how to do it, but confirming that he didn't create an air leak when he removed the cannister.

 

[YellowDuck]

What was the minor adjustment?

There are two likely possibilities:

1. They adjusted the idle trim with the computer

2. They opened up one or both air bleed screws

I am a bit surprised no one has mentioned #2 yet. You can easily try this yourself - just remember how any turns you adjust them so you can put them back as they are if it doesn't help. They may well be fully closed currently (that is the "default" setting). Try turning them both out 1/4 to 3/4 turns and see if that doesn't raise your idle to where you like it.

JC gave you great advice. It really sounds like a simple fuelling setup issue, which could be solved easily by the dealer. I also had the same question as Blitzen - are you sure you did the cannister removal properly so as to not create an air leak?

Another possibility is that the fast idle servo is not working properly.

 

[DUCeditor]

When the SCs were newly released popping and surging on off throttle were often reported. Several approaches were tried to remedy the problem from changing spark plug type to replacing the ECU with one used in the European market. For many of us the complete answer was found in the Fatduc.

Such was the case with my 2007 GT1000. I installed the Fatduc and simply never had a running problem again. I found that even on the lower setting the popping went away. On richer settings so did the poor low RPM, off throttle, response.

I presently have mine set in-between the two settings, putting up with a bit of a rough bottom end to keep the MPG up. (On my last tank I got 48mpg)

In any case starting and idling was never a problem. Nor were long warm-ups necessary.

One possibility, considering the age and low-mileage of the bike, is partially clogged injectors. If that is the case running a tankful with Techron concentrate in the fuel may may the difference.

-don

 

[spdfrk]

I suggest you check your spark plug wires. I had one shorting... after just one year from new. Remove the cam belt covers, then start the bike in a dark room, if you see a blue spark flickering around outside one of the spark plug wires between the wire and the head then replace the wire. If its been doing it for a while there will be some pitting on the rubber insulation of the plug wire. Once that's fixed the motor will start better and run noticeably smoother practically everywhere.

 

[Jaytron]

Unfortunately, I am not as mechanically savvy as most of the guys on this forum. So I gave up and dropped it off today to the dealer. After a few hours of diagnosing the mechanic was pretty certain it is the stepper motor. I will have to bring it back next week to have the stepper motor tested and maybe replaced. I have a bad feeling this will be expensive....