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Discussion Starter #1
Greets.

after watching many questionable repacking methods and video on youtube I decided to go down a slightly different path...the one without using used pink insulation, chicken wire and picking mouse poo out of it prior to install:) not saying this is the best method, it is just my take on this repair.

for materials I used 10mm (equals thickness of 2" fiberglass insulation) dense industrial high temp hydrophobic insulation that is rated for 1200ºF (650ºC), fiberglass exhaust blanket, stainless steel zip ties and a metal zip tie gun ( a must for a super tight wrap). I will be adding a loose fiberglass hybrid insulation for the gap between the CF cans and the internal exhaust on reassembly...lather, rinse, repeat.

the 2nd can teardown not pictured was in worse shape than this one, literally one half of the packing front to back was totally blown out.

CJ.

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Nice. What cans are those and how many miles on them?

I'm thinking I'd like to do the same on my FBF cans. I have no idea how many miles on them, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice. What cans are those and how many miles on them?

I'm thinking I'd like to do the same on my FBF cans. I have no idea how many miles on them, though.

I don't know as I couldn't find a single logo, serial or model number on them, no identify marks. bike has 26K on it and I and guess these cans must have been on them for most of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
looks good one caution though. If the packing is too dense/tight you essentially turn the perforated core into a solid tube and create a straight pipe with no sound absorption. A co-worker did just this with his 748 and the first run at the track his was easily the loudest bike on the track.
yeah, I already had that thought about it being to tight while reassembly. I figured I'd do a test fire before I re-rivet em'.
I also have some different scrap backup industrial insulation that is super thick and plush. that stuff feels like a duck down weighted blanket. I kinda wished I found it first.

thanks for the mention, no worries either way since the cost so far has only been my time :)

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Interesting that they are a similar design to the DP pipes on my ST3 but the DP pipes use an inner galvanized steel sleeve inside the outer C/F shell.
The other odd thing to me is using basically a 2" straight throogh absorbtin muffler on a 40mm OD header which as restrictions at the port and at the collector/splitter/X pipe. There have to be better designs that don't hurt low end power too much but allow them to breathe at higher revs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
somewhat confused, are you saying the the 2" straight thru muffler fed from a 40mm header flows too much air with not enough back pressure for lower RPM power? the inner preforated sleeve is def galvanized and not stainless steel, the mesh sleeve that goes between that and the repacking material is stainless and hard to source. both of the mesh sleeves have seen better days but I can't seem to find a replacement pair online. it sorta looks like no one else uses them. I would think they would really aid in slowing down packing blow out over time.

on the same subject and to another poster I dug deeper into the repacking density thing and decided to change material because as awesome as that high end stuff is I think it is too dense and in reality I have it in there too tight. We use that stuff to wrap exhuast SER's the size of a sub zero refridgerator on 3000hp tier 4 diesel marine engines at work...made for extreme heat not sound as much.

while it is all still apart I cleaned up the end caps and the outer CF barrels. the end caps have 2 passes of 3M rubbing compound and 2 coats of Meguiars wax. not really sure how the wax will interact with the heat on the stainless steel end caps but if it gets weird I can always take it back down to the base metal sans wax. the CF barrels have 6 coats of wax which it really needed, the underside clear was getting a little thin. they will need a new clear coating spray the next time they get repacked. all items looks way better than when torn apart.

...and before someone says it I know, I know, waxing overkill! I won't even talk about the ST4's fairing that got 11 coats of wax this past winter :(
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Those came up well.
I realize that in my previous post I was little too brief. The large bore straight through (absorbtion) mufflers apparently help performance. What UI was alluding to is that the 40mm headers are actually only around 34mm bore where the head mount flange is welded to the header and then the collector/splitter is also a restriction.
What I was wondering out loud was whether a cleaner header pipe design might be a bigger performance improvement. The question I guess is largely rhetorical. I doubt that any of us are going to design and fabricate different header designs just to see if we can get more performance out of these older bikes.
 

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Actually I believe a few people have played around with this and generally the stock ST4 header works really well despite looks.
I believe Brad the bike boy ran some dyno tests, and I remember someone cut open the crossover and rebuilt it to flow better but saw very minor gains.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
finally reinstalled repacked exhaust with an open airbox lid and K&N filter because this ST4 came chipped with a closed lid airbox. all smiles, can't complain. exhaust sound great, less resonance? idk? happy with airbox howl. I only really notice it at WOT. made a bunch of other changes/repairs the same day followed by a ride...very fun day.
 

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I have been thinking about trying to find a replacement for the Ferracci Forza CF system on my ST4 ever since I got it.
I know Mike G. set the bike up with those when he installed a performance chip but after reading this thread I probably should consider re-packing it to tame the DB level, which I find just way too loud. the Alternative would be searching for the best (deeper) sound I can find to ease up on my pudding head diminished hearing! My aging ears were pretty well fried as a kid when I started hanging out at Socal race tracks by age 5, where I could never get close enuf to the cars in the garage areas whenever I could get in there with my dad! And of course I too became indestructible in later years, when the lure of power tools and rock music was quite strong as well to further the abuse...

Since I know little about these systems in general, are any of you familiar with the system or have experience with them, and able to speak to the re-packing job specifics needed?
A couple of other points - I don't know how many miles have been put on the bike since the install, and I already wear ear buds or plugs whenever I ride.

TIA,
Mitch
 

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Repacking an absorbtion (straight through) exhaust is easy. Drill out the end cap rivets. Remove old packing material. Re-pack with the right material and tape that in place. Slip the outer sleeve back on and re-rivet.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
...side note, is there any difference between the fast by ferracci chip and the ducati performance chip for open airbox and straight thru exhaust? I ask because I have the FBF chip alreadyand am getting a DP chip as part of a package deal.
 

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I have no idea, and in fact I don't recall which chip was installed, but luckily I got the OEM chip along with other spares and tools he was generous enuf to give me I picked up the bike and hopefully it is in the same box that the upgrade part came in. I also seem to recall the airbox is not ventilated. The bike runs great tho and my only aim at this point is to give my hearing less abuse!
 
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