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When I got my hyper, the toolkit in the side fairing was already gone. ~1500kms ago I put on a new set of sprockets and chain. That chain has gone through its initial slack period and needs adjustment, but I don't have the tool to do it. My dealer is on holiday till August 3rd and I don't want to wait that long to adjust the slack. Does anybody have an alternate method to doing this without the tool?
 

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When I got my hyper, the toolkit in the side fairing was already gone. ~1500kms ago I put on a new set of sprockets and chain. That chain has gone through its initial slack period and needs adjustment, but I don't have the tool to do it. My dealer is on holiday till August 3rd and I don't want to wait that long to adjust the slack. Does anybody have an alternate method to doing this without the tool?
I read on this site somewhere that you can move the back chain guard to take
up slack. :eek:

Or you could stop over and borrow my tool. :D
 

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I never used a tool. After loosening the 2 hub bolts, I just grab the chain guard and gently turn it clockwise to tighten and counter-clockwise to loosen. Once you have the desired tension, you can re-adjust the location of the chain guard if needed.
 

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Yes you do not need the spanner tool...
 

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Thanks, used the chain guard to do it. The 2 swingarm bolts were one tight, don't know what torque they need to be tightened with but I just torqued it down to "damn tight" :D

I hope this fixes my shifting issues as well, was having trouble shifting the last couple of trips.
 

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On the 1100s the tightening torque is 31nm if I remember correctly.


Sent from my iPad using MO Free
 

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Thanks, used the chain guard to do it. The 2 swingarm bolts were one tight, don't know what torque they need to be tightened with but I just torqued it down to "damn tight" :D

I hope this fixes my shifting issues as well, was having trouble shifting the last couple of trips.
Yep, 31 N.m and they recommend you grease the threads,

Trying greasing the Uniball on the gear shifter, might help with the shifting


Sent from my Newton
 

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How about chain lubrication? I'm used to bikes with a center stand, and I always just throw the bike on the center, hold down on the bars, put it in first, and let it go. How do you lube the chain when a lot of it is protected but the you can't roll and spray?

Perhaps I'm just missing something simple...


Thanks, used the chain guard to do it. The 2 swingarm bolts were one tight, don't know what torque they need to be tightened with but I just torqued it down to "damn tight" :D

I hope this fixes my shifting issues as well, was having trouble shifting the last couple of trips.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, 31 N.m and they recommend you grease the threads,

Trying greasing the Uniball on the gear shifter, might help with the shifting


Sent from my Newton
Adjusted slack as per manual, then went for a ride. 5kms in the ride I hear a strange whirring noise, I ignore it for the time being. After 30kms and a few wheelies I start to notice it changes pitch as I accelerate and decelerate. Stopped and saw that the chain was really tight :eek:. Went to a friends house 5kms from us and changed slack. It's weird, just when you think you have the right slack, you tighten it and all the slack disappears :eek:. Gave it some more slack, tighthened it, rode it and checked again and it seems to be ok now. The whirring sound is also gone. Damn these eccentric hubs :eek:

Shifting did become much easier, although I still mis the 4 --> shift at times. I need to adjust the lever a bit more down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How about chain lubrication? I'm used to bikes with a center stand, and I always just throw the bike on the center, hold down on the bars, put it in first, and let it go. How do you lube the chain when a lot of it is protected but the you can't roll and spray?

Perhaps I'm just missing something simple...
I just use my paddock stand, lift the rear wheel, put the bike in neutral and roll the rear wheel with one hand and spray with the other. I would not recommend putting it in 1st with engine on.

See this thread, there a lot more examples of people doing it and losing their fingers: How NOT to clean your chain. **GRAPHIC PICS*** : Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums: Gixxer.com
 

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I just use my paddock stand, lift the rear wheel, put the bike in neutral and roll the rear wheel with one hand and spray with the other. I would not recommend putting it in 1st with engine on.

See this thread, there a lot more examples of people doing it and losing their fingers: How NOT to clean your chain. **GRAPHIC PICS*** : Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums: Gixxer.com
Gotcha. I don't have a paddock stand, so it looks like I'll need to make that investment.

I don't get close to chain contact with the parts moving. I use a spray cleaner and then turn the bike off to brush it clean. I fully envisioned the dangers of the bike falling off the centerstand and lurching forward and crashing (hasn't happened yet), but I don't get close enough to endanger my digits.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good thing I adjusted the slack today. Just noticed that one of my links was really stiff. Dealer probably over tightened the link when riveting it.
 

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Adjusted slack as per manual, then went for a ride. 5kms in the ride I hear a strange whirring noise, I ignore it for the time being. After 30kms and a few wheelies I start to notice it changes pitch as I accelerate and decelerate. Stopped and saw that the chain was really tight :eek:. Went to a friends house 5kms from us and changed slack. It's weird, just when you think you have the right slack, you tighten it and all the slack disappears :eek:. Gave it some more slack, tighthened it, rode it and checked again and it seems to be ok now. The whirring sound is also gone. Damn these eccentric hubs :eek:

Shifting did become much easier, although I still mis the 4 --> shift at times. I need to adjust the lever a bit more down.
Drinky, when adjusting chain tension you need to rotate the wheel to find the tightest spot/section on the chain and make your adjustment from this point. This is the approach that the manual recommends (actually it is the method discussed in the manuals for any bike I've maintained). Tight and loose sections on the chain are generally more pronounced when the chain has stretched and worn. Also difficult shifting and finding neutral can be symptoms of the chain being adjusted too tight, this has been previously discussed on the forum.

BTW, tool to rotate the rear hub is not included in the HM tool kit. Obviously Ducati wants us to go to a dealer to do a simple task like adjusting your chain.....

Hope this helps :)


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i havn't got a paddock stand yet... but neccesity is the mother of invention... hav cut a length of 1" pipe to lift the rear wheel when i jam it under th right side pillion peg, with a rag on the end to protect the peg.
a bit rough maybe? but it works.
just push the handle bar away while i lift the pipe up and under the peg.
roll the wheel around and spray...
seems fairly safe, when it's not quite right and the bike "falls" off, it just goes onto its wheels again.
works for me :)
 

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I used a screwdriver and hammer to move the adjustment ring before I bought the spanner tool. Worked fine...... the spanner tool was under $10 bucks and a great investment. Just spent 4 mins and adjusted it before my ride tomorrow.
 

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I used a screwdriver and hammer to move the adjustment ring before I bought the spanner tool. Worked fine...... the spanner tool was under $10 bucks and a great investment. Just spent 4 mins and adjusted it before my ride tomorrow.
can you post a link of this tool?
 
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