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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a LeFossi Brake Banjo bleeder to install on the ABS module. It came with all of the parts shown in the picture. At first, I installed it with only the copper crush washers and no small o-ring. After tightening everything and attempting a bleed, it was leaking a little bit once torqued and pressure applied to the pedal.

My question is which parts should I be using? Should I use the other washers instead of the crush washers? They have a rubber gasket built in which seems like it might work pretty well. Finally, where does the small o-ring go? Does it go below the bleeder needle sort of as shown in the picture? I don't recall ever having an o-ring like that in the past, but I could be wrong.

I'm also thinking the quality could just be crap.

Thanks
 

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I would say the best thing for you to do is to take the manufactures advice. Do they have a website or any other outlet to show instructions? I put a standard one on my Multi and had zero issues. I just used the supplied copper crush washers and the nipple did not have a small o-ring. In fact, I've worked at a bike shop and have wrenched on my moto's since I first got one (age 10). I have never once seen a small o-ring like that for a bleeder, nor have I used anything other than a crush washer (never those rubber lined ones you pictured). If I had to guess, that o-ring should slide up over the angled side of your bleeder screw. That's pretty much the only place it could go.

Was your leak coming from the bleeder screw or the base?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I believe it was leaking around the bleeder screw. When I pressed the pedal, you could still see slight fluid movement when I had the bleeder bottle connected even though the bleeder screw was torqued. I was able to get a little bit of pedal feel back, but you really had to stomp on it.

I tried it again today and I thought that I had it, but there was still a very slow leak, so I just replaced it with the original banjo bolt.

Unfortunately, now I cannot get this thing bled. Is there a secret to bleeding this thing besides removing the caliper and turning it upside down?
 

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I believe it was leaking around the bleeder screw. When I pressed the pedal, you could still see slight fluid movement when I had the bleeder bottle connected even though the bleeder screw was torqued. I was able to get a little bit of pedal feel back, but you really had to stomp on it.

I tried it again today and I thought that I had it, but there was still a very slow leak, so I just replaced it with the original banjo bolt.

Unfortunately, now I cannot get this thing bled. Is there a secret to bleeding this thing besides removing the caliper and turning it upside down?
Nope. You must do it proper to achieve an air-free bleed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, red anodized is crap. Removed the caliper again. Got some feel back to the pedal, but it still sucks.
 

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Yep, red anodized is crap. Removed the caliper again. Got some feel back to the pedal, but it still sucks.
Several sources include cycling the ABS 10 times, then bleeding again. Everyone's experience regarding the rear brake is wildly different, but this was the extra step that made a difference for me.
 

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Several sources include cycling the ABS 10 times, then bleeding again. Everyone's experience regarding the rear brake is wildly different, but this was the extra step that made a difference for me.
Good tips thanks D3, I’ve noticed it seems to bleed better after some use, that’ll be the ABS cycles then.

Cheers John
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I’ll give that a shot after my next ride. I feel the ABS kicks in way too soon. Hate to turn it off completely, but the 2010 doesn’t allow for separate ABS settings to my knowledge. I will probably also buy some better bleeder components from the Ducati shop. Seemed like it would be convenient to have a bleeder on the ABS module
 
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