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Well, I added the bleeder to the rear brake today on my 2012. Got the parts from my Ducati dealer. The threads on the new part were longer than the stock part so at first I wasn’t able to tighten it down. Ended up using two crush washers on the top. Hope that’s ok.

Also took out some of the play from the master cylinder, but still leaving a gap for expansion.

Replaced the fluid and bled from the ABS module and also from the caliper. Pedal feels good for the moment, we’ll see how long it lasts.


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I just took my 2011 Multi to the dealer, and had him replace the rear brake fluid with Castrol SRF React. He purchased a new bottle of fluid, but only charged me for the amount he used! He has done this for many Multi's including his own, and told me that it fixes the problem for some, but not all Multi's. He showed me that he refrigerates the fluid to thicken it before filling the system because he says the extra thickness does a better job pushing all of the air out of the lines. He filled it, let it sit for an hour, drove it, then brought it back and pushed more fluid through the lines. I have ridden the bike for a little over 200 miles over 3 hours, and the rear brakes still work. They are not as aggressive as I would expect (compared to my 2009 848), and the pedal still feels too far down from my toes, but they can lock up the ABS so I guess that's as good as I'm going to get. I am about to head out on a 3,000+ mile trip so I'll keep you posted about its effectiveness.
 

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I just took my 2011 Multi to the dealer, and had him replace the rear brake fluid with Castrol SRF React. He purchased a new bottle of fluid, but only charged me for the amount he used! He has done this for many Multi's including his own, and told me that it fixes the problem for some, but not all Multi's. He showed me that he refrigerates the fluid to thicken it before filling the system because he says the extra thickness does a better job pushing all of the air out of the lines. He filled it, let it sit for an hour, drove it, then brought it back and pushed more fluid through the lines. I have ridden the bike for a little over 200 miles over 3 hours, and the rear brakes still work. They are not as aggressive as I would expect (compared to my 2009 848), and the pedal still feels too far down from my toes, but they can lock up the ABS so I guess that's as good as I'm going to get. I am about to head out on a 3,000+ mile trip so I'll keep you posted about its effectiveness.


Mine worked for over 2000 miles with Silkolene and then one day just went to mush.


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Did a decent ride today, first time since bleeding through the ABS. Huge difference, much better. If I have to bleed every three months or so that’s fine.


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Maybe you need a new dealer?

Checked with my dealer today and all the rear master cylinders from 2010 to the 2018 have the same part number, implying that the master cylinder hasn’t changed.

How do you know 2015+ has a larger bore? My guy did say that the reservoir is bigger on the newer bikes but didn’t see anything to indicate the bore was bigger.

Oh, the MC was also like $89.


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ok, parts list for my 2013 MTS...

http://www.desmoduck.com/view.php?section=025&model=2013-mts1200s-touring

part no of master cylinder is... 62540201A

parts list for 2016 MTS...

2016 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S by AMS Ducati - Issuu

part no of master cylinder is..62540311B

looks different to me... :)

https://www.ebay.com/p/62540311B-Ducati-Rear-Brake-Pump-master-Cylinder-Multistrada-1200/1547934607
 

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@Corsa9

Ok, cool. Now I have some numbers to show him. Last time I mentioned it while I was there for something else.

Thanks!


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ones without cats still do it. non abs ones don't.
Ok, now if the non ABS ones don't have crap rear brakes, has anyone considered running a new line from the master cylinder to the rear caliper, plugging the entry and exit on the ABS unit and taking it out of the system altogether? Hmm?
In fact, taking the rear brake out of the ABS circuit as you suggest is a known solution to the problem. ABS is the culprit, not heat alone. I refer to Boulder Motorsports for this one.
 

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In fact, taking the rear brake out of the ABS circuit as you suggest is a known solution to the problem. ABS is the culprit, not heat alone. I refer to Boulder Motorsports for this one.
I'm considering taking the ABS out of the entire system, last week on a ride my front went to much, this is with upgraded lines and M50's of an 1199 running through the ABS unit. I had to bleed it at the ABS and got some air and cooked fluid out. I don't understand how air is getting in a sealed system, and it always seems to accumulate at the ABS block. So far my issues have been rear related only till last weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I'm considering taking the ABS out of the entire system, last week on a ride my front went to much, this is with upgraded lines and M50's of an 1199 running through the ABS unit. I had to bleed it at the ABS and got some air and cooked fluid out. I don't understand how air is getting in a sealed system, and it always seems to accumulate at the ABS block. So far my issues have been rear related only till last weekend.
Rob, see my earlier notes. I am convinced that the source of the problem is the rear master cylinder- it is so close to the cat that it gets cooked, degrading the seals and allowing air leakage. The air that then enters gets trapped at the high point of the system which is the ABS. The bleed fitting addition to the ABS allows you to get the air out, but it will keep coming in. So taking the ABS out altogether would help for a while, but the air leakage would continue. I am experimenting with trying to insulate the master cylinder with some exhaust wrap and maybe something like a scoop to run more air over it. But the long term fix is to move the damn thing! (unless Brembo can come up with heat-resistant seals) Since I started looking at this, I now look at all bikes and the placement of the rear master (for clutch AND brake) relative to the cat- the multi is with an inch!, everything else is 4 to 5 inches minimum. HAS to be the problem...
 

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My cat was removed and bike still loses rear brake function regularly. Bleeding rear brakes fixes temporarily. So on my bike the source of heat is rear cylinder adjacent to ABS unit.
I pulled my cat within 1000 miles of ownership as well
 

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I recently bled the bike replacing the existing fluid with Castrol SRF. That's a last resort before I drop the cat. It's not as if the rear brake is transformed, but it has continued to function in its feeble manner for the last six weeks. I've hesitated to mention it since it hasn't been all that long since I bled them but so far, so good.

The heat shield I added to protect the MC when the bike was new has had no noticeable benefits so if you've been thinking about that, my experience has been disappointing using insulation as a remedy but that's just one anecdote.
 
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