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first apologies for no pictures, we were tearing in and not stopping to snap. And a shout-out to the guys at the Powersports Store, Cincinnati's newest independent shop.

After major service on my 2010S, no rear brake at all- pedal bottomed with zero pad movement. I have been following the recent brake threads, as mine sucked before the service anyway. I have gone to the larger master cylinder with no change. We added the bleed fitting at the ABS, and then did a vacuum bleed from the new fitting. Holy crap! TONS of air, discolored fluid (even though the system had just been flushed) and even some particulate stuff! So- problem solved?- Nope, not so fast- brake lever still bottoms and no brake. WTF? Take it home, do the weight on the lever overnight, then crack the new ABS bleed valve in the morning- got a tiny bit of air. And still no brake! Took it back to the shop, and we are looking at it. I'm pumping the lever, and the mechanic says- "Wait a minute- look at the rear reservoir!" Every time I pump the brake lever, the fluid rises a bit- like AIR is coming in. Rear master is sucking air on every stroke.

So I look at it closely- and EUREEKA! It comes to me- the master is less than "TWO INCHES FROM THE CAT"!!! Seal are being exposed to 500 plus degrees! Of course seals will go bad due to the heat, and quickly start to leak. Then, as air gets into the system, it accumulates at the top of the ABS unit!

I wonder if the Cat was an "add-on" to the original design due to changes in Euro emissions? With the idea in mind, I stopped at the local KTM dealer on the way home and looked at several of their bikes- they all have large cats, and the masters for both clutch and brake are at least 8 inches away from them!

So- we are going to either rebuild or replace the rear master, and wrap it in some exhaust insulation to help cut the heat. The repeat the top bleed, and monitor. And gripe to Ducati, of course...

I will take some pics to illustrate what I found and also of the insulation install.

Dave
 

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Have you watched this? Goes along with what you are saying.


I just flushed my brakes. Rear is not bad... I am still going to add the bleeder at the ABS module, though. Don’t want to have to take my rear caliper off and unbolt the lines again to get it above the module.




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I was going to raise my brake pedal a bit as it feels a bit low to me. It does work maybe a bit spongy . So looked and realized it’s not adjustable (what crap). Pressed it and noticed what looked like a pulse of dirty fluid pushing into the reservoir and back into the tube when released. The reservoir looks to be half dirty and half clean, with the dirty at the bottom. Pumped several time and never noticed a change in level of the reservoir.

The bike has 14000 miles and had 9000 when I purchased it a year and a half ago.

Of the 4 bikes I looked at and road only one had the brake that would go full stroke with no break action, all others worked.


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My rear brake is fine w/ full Termi/cat delete. '13 master + bleeder @ rear abs circuit and routine yearly flush/bleed, which I do regardless.


I just got my 2012 five weeks ago. It came with a full Termi that the PO had installed on day one. Rear brake felt ok-ish when I bought the bike, but I also had nothing to compare it to. Well, Multis anyway.

Brakes had never been bled and it was at 19.5K. Vacuum pump bled it myself, raising the caliper above the ABS module. Seems a little better now, but pretty similar.

I don’t feel like I could lock up the rear, but I am also wearing size 13 wide Sidi boots and can only get half my boot on the pedal. Might try turning off ABS completely and see if I can lock it up. That would be a good test.


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Mine is a 2014 stock with cat. Has 10k+ Front brake has been bled once. Never bled the rear. Rear still working. I bought the heat guard thing that guy was making when I got the bike. Never even installed that. Scared to touch it. Shouldn’t have even typed it.


You made me LOL for reals. Thanks for the laugh. :)


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FWIW YMMV....... I installed the rear bleeder and did the caliper high bleed. Got out lots of air. Can lock the rear now with abs off. Running valvoline fluid from flaps. This is a 13 mts st.
Cheers
Stevo in SC
 

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Multistrada 15 DVT. no cat, full termi. After I bled the system from the abs after installing the full termi, I have had no issues with my rear brake. Works well.
 

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2011 Multi

I have the 2011 Multi and I had nothing but problems with the rear brake until I got the bleeder at the ABS module. Now it works great, kinda like you'd expect your rear brake to work.
 

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I bought the heat guard thing that guy was making when I got the bike. Never even installed that.
Same here. Mine is sitting in a bin out in the garage, along with all the other 'rainy day' bike projects that I will probably never get around to. I always wondered if the little heat shield gizmo would help, but never had the enthusiasm to go out and put it on the bike. The rear brake on my '12 has always been iffy.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Multistrada 15 DVT. no cat, full termi. After I bled the system from the abs after installing the full termi, I have had no issues with my rear brake. Works well.
My thinking is that the problem has 2 distinct components. The inability to get air out of the system due to the lack of a bleeder at the ABS (the highest point of the system) is one part. The other is "where does all this damn air come from"? That's why I think we haven't been looking at seal degradation due to the proximity of the rear master to the cat as the culprit. I've spoken to some knowledgeable folks (Yoyodyne and Spiegler) and they agree- high heat near a hydraulic master, or slave will GREATLY accelerate seal wear. Worn seals leak air. Air rises and is trapped at the top of the ABS, causing incurable mushy brake. Bleeding from the add-on ABS bleeder will improve the problem, but air will continue to accumulate.

Is there a fix, short of a Ducati redesign to move the brake master and clutch slave away from the cat? Since we are replacing the rear brake master, we are going to wrap the master in some exhaust insulation to see if that helps. I'll report back when it's done.

Dave
 

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When I first designed, built and tested the brake shield, (then somebody else decided to take the idea, have some made and sold them to you fellas for a stupid price), I put almost 1000 miles and had no issues on my 12 PP.
I also built a rise on the rear brake pedal that helped a lot as far as the feel since IMO the position is too low.
(I still have one of those if any of you guys is looking for one ).
Cheers!
 

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When I first designed, built and tested the brake shield, (then somebody else decided to take the idea, have some made and sold them to you fellas for a stupid price), I put almost 1000 miles and had no issues on my 12 PP.
I also built a rise on the rear brake pedal that helped a lot as far as the feel since IMO the position is too low.
(I still have one of those if any of you guys is looking for one ).
Cheers!
Photo?
 

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Here's the brake lever and the original shield.
Gonna have to make a new one for my '16 , this one won't fit.
Cheers!
 

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Here's the brake lever and the original shield.
Gonna have to make a new one for my '16 , this one won't fit.
Cheers!


So stupid that you can not adjust the position of it. I don’t really use mine much but to me it is way low. Could be worse with some boots or shoes too I’m sure.


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From other heat issues I’ve dealt with, it’s amazing how much good a heat shield can do. If you make one , having an air gap is very important. If there is room, wrap the pipe.
 

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I have an Arrow exhaust on my bike and have had it for a couple years now, so no cat. My rear brake pedal has been very soft now for months and I’ve been putting off bleeding the rear brake but I just bled my rear brake today and got a nice firm pedal by removing the rear wheel, flipping the caliper and bleeding it upside down on the top of the rear brake disc. I used a vacuum bleeder to pull fluid out of the caliper and it looked a bit cloudy but I still wasn’t getting a firm pedal so I stared doing it the old fashioned way, pressing down on the brake lever while cracking the bleed valve at the rear caliper and I got some more air out and clear fluid. I ran through this a few times, filling up the reservoir and pushing clean fluid through the system until no air was coming out. Pedal is nice and firm now.

I do this procedure by putting the bike on the center stand, removing the muffler and the rear wheel, unbolting the rear caliper and brake lines so I can mount the caliper on top of the rear brake disc and I bleed it at the caliper while it is upside down.

I’ve never bled it at the abs pump. I’m the original owner and I have almost 15k miles on the bike now.
 
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