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Discussion Starter #1
bike is 999

the bike feels like it has a lot of rolling resistance when i push it or walk with it. in neutral and clutch level pushed ofcourse. It makes noise as well, i wouldn't say it sounds as bad as sand grinding but it does sound like dry bearings or something. Are there wheel bearings or something like that that needs to be oiled/lubed?

bike feels like it has a lot more resistance then other bikes i've pushed, gsxr1000, r1, r6 to name a few. it doesn't sound very smooth either, like i've said, it sounds like what ever is rolling is dry.
 

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Chain ?
 

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Your brakes may not adjusted correctly.
Get your bike up on a rear stand to get the rear tire off the gound.
Spin it by hand and see if there is more resistance than just the chain rolling around.
Get the front up in the air on a stand and do the same thing.
You should get more than one turn out of the front wheel with a good spin.
If all of the above shows your brakes are dragging stop riding it and take it to a dealer ASAP or the result could be very nasty for you and your bike.
Your wheel bearings could also be shot but I doubt that but it could happen.
There is no oiling of the wheel bearings because they are sealed bearings.
If they go bad you just replace them.
Regardless, if you continue to ride your bike in this condition nothing but bad will come of it.
Keep us posted!
 

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I get that too. My rear wheel I put in the air and it spins perfectly. My front one sounds like it's rubbing on something, tire pressure is fine and all. It even did this prior to swapping out my wheels. It sounds like rubbing. My brakes are squeaking pretty bad so I think I'll take it to the dealer let them take a quick peek at it.

-Chris
 

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remove your calipers and clean them. a service that is never done!
remove one at a time and remove the pads(remember location as they have to go back that way) pump the pistons out so you can see the dirt line, use simple green and a tooth brush and scrup them clean. wash them off and replace the pads, push them all the way back in and reasemble them back to the leg. do the other side and pump up the brakes, pushing them back in and pumping them back out repositions them on the square oring. this oring is in at an angle so when you aply brake it flexes and when you release it pulls them back ever so slightly. but if you dont clean the pistons before pushing them in all the dirt fills the oring groove and causes sticky pistons.........
that was boring:p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
it does kind of sound like the front brakes. Is it really that bad to drive it like this? i don't have the tools on me for another 2 weeks. is it that dangerous/bad for the bike to be driving it?
 

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it does kind of sound like the front brakes. Is it really that bad to drive it like this? i don't have the tools on me for another 2 weeks. is it that dangerous/bad for the bike to be driving it?
All you would need is an allen-wrench and brake cleaner. $5 at AutoZone. But yeah, the drag is common on disc-brakes, shouldn't be dangerous unless you actually feel like the front feel is seizing up on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All you would need is an allen-wrench and brake cleaner. $5 at AutoZone. But yeah, the drag is common on disc-brakes, shouldn't be dangerous unless you actually feel like the front feel is seizing up on you.
shouldn't they be trq'ed to a certain number? i don't have my trq wrench on me and brakes is something i kind of want to be screwed on correctly. or is it really not that important and critical as what i'm making it out to be? anyone have the trq specs btw?
 

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shouldn't they be trq'ed to a certain number? i don't have my trq wrench on me and brakes is something i kind of want to be screwed on correctly. or is it really not that important and critical as what i'm making it out to be? anyone have the trq specs btw?
Torque wrench would be nice, but not required.

Torque numbers are in the service manual. duc.nu/manuals
 

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my brakes were dragging a ton as well...

during lunch at my last trackday i hosed them down with some brake cleaner - helped, but I need to do a better job.

remember to watch your brake fluid levels as you're moving the pistons in and out- don't want an overfill, and you really don't want to suck air.
 

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What your describing happens on an otherwise healthy bike when the chain is on it's way out. Oiling will make it go away for a while, then you will notice that you have to oil it again without puting many miles on it.
 

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No bad on the guy with the problem but when someone asks if his wheel bearings need to be oiled that is a sure sign they are not up to the task yet of removing brake calipers and cleaning the pistons. We all have got to start somewhere but that is not the place to start.
My front brake pads touch and make some noise but not much, my bikes roll just fine also.
Draging noise, not rolling like it should = take it to a dealer and have it checked and cleaned if required.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
No bad on the guy with the problem but when someone asks if his wheel bearings need to be oiled that is a sure sign they are not up to the task yet of removing brake calipers and cleaning the pistons. We all have got to start somewhere but that is not the place to start.
My front brake pads touch and make some noise but not much, my bikes roll just fine also.
Draging noise, not rolling like it should = take it to a dealer and have it checked and cleaned if required.
no bad taken, but just because i don't know if it's a sealed bearing or not doesn't mean i know nothing about repair and this isn't even repair, it's just maintenance. it's like oiling chains, how many of us know chains actually have sealed bearings... simple maintenance is something i will know way before every oil point and sealed bearing on the bike. I've removed calipers before, just not on bikes, it just seems a little more important to have the right trq numbers on a bike. thanks for the watch out though.
 

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Put it up on a track stand, front and rear. If both wheels spin realtively freely its the rolling friction of the tires, which is significant especially track tires. Pay attention to the feel of the front bearing, for any grinding noise. Brake rotor drag is normal, dont expect the front to spin without help. If you pull the calipers off the front then the wheel ought to spin very freely without help. For the rear use a pitbull SS stand with a built-in bearing. It ought to be much stiffer than the front. Start by putting it in neutral and note the friction to spin. Pull the clutch in and note the difference -should be a little easier. If you want to go further break the chain and pull the rear caliper, the rear wheel ought to spin freely without help. The rear has a lot more friction points than the front; bearing (stand and wheel), rotor, rear sproket, front sproket, transmission, and clutch.
 
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