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..TomTom posted a before/after dyno graph here at MS of a 2003 or 04' 999 base w/ S cams....the results were quite amazing....a 10hp increase at the rear wheel.... IIRC Tom also stated that these were they original cams slated for the 2003 base 999 when it came out...but Ducati wanted to produced an S model, so the S model got the hot cams...the base 999 got another less potent grind...with the 1038cc kit, S cams, porting, valve work, mapping....I picked up a good 20+ RWHP...and the cams that TomTom recommended were 50% of that. The other work would have been a waste IMO w/o these S cams...interesting stuff.
 

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Its not just the cams if youre looking for a rebuild design, bigger intake valves is only interesting if you go 102 bore. Really give Chris a question at cjsracing.co.uk if you want the best out of it, hes into ducs alright and very helpful.

Jyrki, I dont have a certain number as the base design of what you prefer to do will affect everything.
Using them will take new intake rockers all around which are super hard to find and silly expensive and then you need to either grind down the cams or have special closing shims made.
All for little gain, as you need to find a tuner to squeeze the little extra lift out of those cams, or its zip zero result.

I had a few 999s' fitted with those cams back in 08 with 102 bore and they run super great, but it was a lot of work and a lot of special tools and stuff was required, but I'm curious and like to know stuff like this, so for me its all good.
Now these bikes are close from me so I service them and know there whats and not, but you cant go to a standard dealership, as theyd have no clue what to do with it.

S cams and you can go normal dealer service, R cams 05 and on nope.

So in retro I wouldnt suggest the cams unless you/the customer is an experienced user, but its possible if youre dedicated.
 

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Its not just the cams if youre looking for a rebuild design, bigger intake valves is only interesting if you go 102 bore. Really give Chris a question at cjsracing.co.uk if you want the best out of it, hes into ducs alright and very helpful.

Jyrki, I dont have a certain number as the base design of what you prefer to do will affect everything.
Using them will take new intake rockers all around which are super hard to find and silly expensive and then you need to either grind down the cams or have special closing shims made.
All for little gain, as you need to find a tuner to squeeze the little extra lift out of those cams, or its zip zero result.

I had a few 999s' fitted with those cams back in 08 with 102 bore and they run super great, but it was a lot of work and a lot of special tools and stuff was required, but I'm curious and like to know stuff like this, so for me its all good.
Now these bikes are close from me so I service them and know there whats and not, but you cant go to a standard dealership, as theyd have no clue what to do with it.

S cams and you can go normal dealer service, R cams 05 and on nope.

So in retro I wouldnt suggest the cams unless you/the customer is an experienced user, but its possible if youre dedicated.
I'll tell you Tom...my base 999 w/ S cams, 102mm over bore kit, Pistal HC pistons...light weight cam pulleys, flywheel, FBF porting..really hauls the mail....amazing engine when it's massaged a little bit......not sure what FBF did porting wise exactly....he didn't do much....but the result was beyond my expectations...my 999 idles, runs and sounds better than stock....I was surprised just how much performance the full exhaust added over the slip on....I was very skeptical as alot of guys post slight gains going from slip to full....but you were pretty much spot on w/ your suggestion of going w/ S cams and full exhaust, the latter really added a tremendous punch to this motor.....good advice...!
 

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Jyrki, I dont have a certain number as the base design of what you prefer to do will affect everything.
Using them will take new intake rockers all around which are super hard to find and silly expensive and then you need to either grind down the cams or have special closing shims made.
All for little gain, as you need to find a tuner to squeeze the little extra lift out of those cams, or its zip zero result.
It's the 2004 749s so the 749r cams should drop in, since my bike has those rockers for some reason. Chris(cjs) said that there is a slight change that it would require some extra work, but it would be more like fine tuning. Of course I would have to map it again etc and maybe even upgrade the ecu once again from the pc3 that I now have, so it's all quite unrealistic that I would choose this route. I probably rather take the money for the cams instead of investing whole bunch more for few extra ponies. But if I had these cams when the engine was rebuilt, then.... :cool:
 

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It's the 2004 749s so the 749r cams should drop in, since my bike has those rockers for some reason. Chris(cjs) said that there is a slight change that it would require some extra work, but it would be more like fine tuning. Of course I would have to map it again etc and maybe even upgrade the ecu once again from the pc3 that I now have, so it's all quite unrealistic that I would choose this route. I probably rather take the money for the cams instead of investing whole bunch more for few extra ponies. But if I had these cams when the engine was rebuilt, then.... :cool:
Ok, that puts it in a completely different light.
The closer lobes will be tight to the closer shims, so all you need to do is either grind the closing lobes or get custom closer shims.
The point where it gets close is the transport part of the closing lobe, so its safe to machine it more narrow, same style 1098r and dr16 has.

I dont have any experience of the 749S 04 cams. From spec they are 258/266 and low lift, the 749R are a tad shorter and more lift.
Its your ambition that will determine, if the heads are stock I'm not so sure it will make a big impact.

If say you had base model 999 cams that are short at around 240 degrees and lift really low I'd say go, but maybe the cams you have are good for the heads already then the gain will be missed upon.

To make an engine really work you need the whole combo, and that means every aspect of the build from picking components to tuning, so I'd say you probably need a builder or so to squeeze the last ponies and then cost will be a factor, ie not recommended as its not the right donor engine, nothing wrong with it though.

If I were in your clothes I'd start with playing around with the cams you have and a good tuning.
So unless youve had it properly tuned already, sell the 749R cams and put the money into cam timing investigation and mapping.
 

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It was built by the same guy who does engine work to the guy who has those factory superbikes here, so he knows his stuff. When the engine work was done it included some mild porting job and the timing was set to the spec(don't know/remember the figures he used). It's been on the dyno few times already since the ecu burned out this summer, so it had to be re-mapped once again. Now with the cost effective pc3.

Thing is that if I install the cams it means few euros to the engine guy, few euros to the dyno guy etc etc. so it's an never ending circle. Probably will keep it as it is and either sell it and get the 749R and start building a track weapon from it. Much better starting point with all the goodies it has in stock condition already...
 

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It was built by the same guy who does engine work to the guy who has those factory superbikes here, so he knows his stuff. When the engine work was done it included some mild porting job and the timing was set to the spec(don't know/remember the figures he used). It's been on the dyno few times already since the ecu burned out this summer, so it had to be re-mapped once again. Now with the cost effective pc3.

Thing is that if I install the cams it means few euros to the engine guy, few euros to the dyno guy etc etc. so it's an never ending circle. Probably will keep it as it is and either sell it and get the 749R and start building a track weapon from it. Much better starting point with all the goodies it has in stock condition already...
Ok, hadnt any clue of the history, just wrote generally, then as you say I'd just enjoy it.
Why did it have to be remapped? Have you already? If it was from changing ecu I can help you clone it or repair the broken unit.
 

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Ok, hadnt any clue of the history, just wrote generally, then as you say I'd just enjoy it.
Why did it have to be remapped? Have you already? If it was from changing ecu I can help you clone it or repair the broken unit.
I had the FIM ultimap ecu in it. It never worked as it should have and now it went all bad. I have no interest in getting it back, but it did have a decent map in it, but I believe it would have been sort of pain in the ass to convert it so we took the OEM ecu and fitted pc3 and mapped it again.
 

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Just to enlighten everyone with a tid bit of information.

'04 999R, 999S and S4RS Camshafts are all the same.

I was under the impression there were differences between these, but there are not.

I have heard some people have changed rocker arms and ran 749R intake or both cams. Does anyone know much about this? TomTom?

Cheers,

Bryan
 

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First part of post #26 is what it takes to use them, we used the 749R cams just because we were sitting on them and I actually like doing those kind of builds, so if youre a build nerd then certainly. But if its bang for buck were discussing nothing beats 999S cams, they are very good.
It was a bargain price I guess, but nothing's ever as cheap as it looks like. Now the bike will sit some time before I get today's incident sorted....
 

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First part of post #26 is what it takes to use them, we used the 749R cams just because we were sitting on them and I actually like doing those kind of builds, so if youre a build nerd then certainly. But if its bang for buck were discussing nothing beats 999S cams, they are very good.
Ah but this post and my question was about 999S heads. Any advice on that?

Cheers,

Bryan
 
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