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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody had a flashing key symbol??
It's supposed to show you've tried to use the code-card sequence but the procedure has failed. All you are supposed to need to do is switch off and back on to clear it but I can't get it to clear no matter what I do.
Any suggestions??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thank you. That is helpful but nowhere have I seen anything about having a flashing key symbol that won't go away
I now have a 1098 ecu, flashed for a 999 and with the immobiliser function switched off. The key symbol is still blinking away and the motor still refuses to fire.
 

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Nobody has responded because they don't think they can offer much help.

As you noted, here is what the manual says.

If the CODE warning light
continues flashing, one of the
immobilizer signals have been
restored (with the twistgrip overriding
procedure, for example). Turn the key
to OFF and then back to ON again:
the immobilizer warning light should
start working correctly (see point 1).

Of course, this is with a 999 ECU properly installed. You have a 1098 reflased unit. Is it of the same type as used in the 999? Did it previously work? How about some more background info?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the response, much appreciated.
Background is that I lost one cylinder Summer 2017 and it turned out to a coil driver in the ECU.
We have a great guy on The Ducati uk forum who is something of an ecu guru. He recommended getting an 848/1098 ecu because they ae more reliable than the earlier type and will work in a 999 if reflashed with a 999 map, which he did for me. I fitted that 848 ecu and it worked perfectly, except it did show a 37.3 error on the dash but with no engine light.
All was fine until December when I was persuaded to go for a ride in much colder weather than I usually like to ride in - 4-5 degrees Celsius.
The bike was reluctant to start but did eventually and I assumed it would be fine once warm, which it was until I was near my friends house and it just died and hasn't run since.
I have replaced the battery box relay, checked and wiggle all fuses, checked the connectors between ECU and antenna, tried a substitute antenna, keys and dash. No keys produce a response with either antenna. I cannot initiate the card-code sequence - nothing happens.
Mr ECU then sent me a 1098 ECU, reflashed with a 999 map and with the immobiliser function switched off. I was certain that would fix it but no, the symbol is still blinking and it doesn't fire. As an aside, the fans now start up when I switch on but hopefully that's a red herring.
I have tried the trick of running a wire between battery negative and the centre pin of the obd connector but it didn't stop the fans.
I have also tried replacing the plug I can get at easily but no spark. I can smell fuel when cranking. I have a PC3 fitted but have disconnected it.
I have had the battery checked and it actually exceeds specs including a drop-test, despite being 5 years old.
Mr ECU also sent me a 'virgin' 848/1098 ECU along with the antenna, dash and keys but I haven't actually tried it because I was keen to try the 'immo-off' version.
Apparently, the immo off flash was as a result of consulting JP of JPDiag.
Can't think what else to tell you.
 

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So, it sounds like it ran fine for only 6 months then trouble arrived. The fan issue is a very strong indicator that you have an open ground (earth) somewhere and that may have fried the ECU the moment you turned on the key. I would do an exhaustive search of all wiring to (hopefully) find a short circuit. Then I'd install the new key/dash/ecu set. Don't keep throwing ECUs at it.
 

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Oh, and that 37.3 error is: IMMOBILIZER (SERIAL CABLE DISC.)

So, I would also closely examine all the wiring running from the antenna to the ECU and swap out your antenna for the new one to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry, should have said 2016, so it was 18 months.
The fan only started running with the second replacement ecu, no such problems with the one in there for 18months, even though I had the 37.3 error showing all that time.
Of course, I too suspected the antenna and have already tried the substitute antenna with all keys but they just don't register.
Mr ECU says the ECU he has flashed and sent is one that was given to him and he doesn't know the history of it, so he is going to flash and send me one he knows the history of.
I'm told by another knowledgeable guy that the fan problem is usually caused by someone plugging into the obd port the wrong way round. My suspicion is that this ECU already had that fault.

One thing I haven't investigated thoroughly is the stand/neutral light/clutch switch possibility - what do we think??
 

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I'm told by another knowledgeable guy that the fan problem is usually caused by someone plugging into the obd port the wrong way round. My suspicion is that this ECU already had that fault.
The polarity reversal issue is a well known and well documented item. There have been several threads about it. Mostly in the ST section because of the way their batteries are installed, but it's happened to others as well. Not sure how you would reverse the diagnostic port, though. The plug has a keyway to prevent that. I guess they could heve reversed the external power clips. Anyway, these items are usually related - polarity reversal, open ground (earth), fan on all the time, and fried ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, interesting news.

A guy in Scandinavia has a 999 which has DP ECU for an asymmetric Termi system.

He has disabled the immobiliser via Tuneboy and has removed the antenna and ignition switch.

At key on, he gets a blinking key symbol but once the engine starts up, it then goes away.

He has no 37.3 error though
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for that, Yorik.

As the ECU I just installed has an uncertain history and the fan didn't come on with the ECU I just removed, the assumption appears to be that this ECU was already fried before I installed it.

What you say about battery installation is interesting though, as it is difficult on my 999 to insert the battery into the battery tray without the contacts touching the terminals on the way in. I have done this quite a few times in the past though and never had a problem. Also, any contact would be positive to positive, negative to negative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The polarity reversal issue is a well known and well documented item. There have been several threads about it. Mostly in the ST section because of the way their batteries are installed, but it's happened to others as well. Not sure how you would reverse the diagnostic port, though. The plug has a keyway to prevent that. I guess they could heve reversed the external power clips. Anyway, these items are usually related - polarity reversal, open ground (earth), fan on all the time, and fried ECU.
Maybe some aftermarket plugs are more able to be inserted the wrong way round than others, thus reversing polarity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It would appear the blinking key symbol is a total red-herring and that they all do that between switch-on and engine start but none of us has noticed.
The 37.3 error was also a red-herring but it took lots of substituting to demonstrate it. The fans on at switch-on was nothing to do with the ECU but simply because I failed to plug the connector back onto the water temp sensor.
The first signs of life came when I took the shim out from under the CPS. I then replaced it and it seemed to run fine once I could get it started. When I tried to ride it though, it died again and the pump was failing to prime. Power was getting as far as the under-tank connector, so I got another assembly and I had life again.
It would run fine but was difficult to start. Got a new battery but it didn't help. I then replaced my five -year old Motolectric cable kit with a UK made one and hey-presto: it started and ran well but not perfectly. Perfectly only came after a TPS reset.
Along the way, the oem right-angle battery terminal broke off, which was quite a worry. However, because the cable kit piggybacks the oem cables, the current was still flowing, if not quite as directly as before, so no problem.
I now have an "immo-off" 1098 type ECU flashed with a 999 map. This is allegedly more robust than the 0em 999 ECU.
I'm amazed how much difference the tps reset made. I did it because I was getting a misfire at high revs and open throttle, so a tps reset was recommended. I ordered the lead and obd gizmo I needed and downloaded the Android app. I had a fair bit of trouble getting the app and reader to see each other via bluetooth but once I managed that it was dead easy to reset the tps and the service indicator.
I'm amazed at what difference the reset made: the motor starts and idles much better, it's smoother and more powerful and the misfire has completely disappeared.

Result!
 
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