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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as my other thread explains, I picked up a 998 with catastrophic engine failure on the horizontal piston/cyl/Head. The goal was to make this strictly a track/race machine.

It wasn’t really feasible to salvage at a realistic cost, so I purchased a 2005 999 deep sump engine that I will be installing instead.

First up was to give the engine a general cleaning while everything is accessible. General servicing is going to be done before installing as well.

Replaced the belts, adjusted valve clearances and retimed the camshafts. I set them at 107LC based on some advice from experienced builders - we’ll see if the powerband is any good once it’s on the dyno. IMG_6579.JPG IMG_6578.JPG IMG_6477.JPG


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Awesome project! I have the same task coming up to my 916. Please keep us up to date.



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It is a very easy sway. No modifications necessary. However, you will run into exhaust issues on the horizontal cylinder. Minor fabrication will be necessary, but nothing an exhaust shop cannot handle.

Use any 999 deep sump horizontal exhaust and let someone modify it to fit the 998 system. Simple stuff for a real welder. You will understand once you have the engine and exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is a very easy sway. No modifications necessary. However, you will run into exhaust issues on the horizontal cylinder. Minor fabrication will be necessary, but nothing an exhaust shop cannot handle.



Use any 999 deep sump horizontal exhaust and let someone modify it to fit the 998 system. Simple stuff for a real welder. You will understand once you have the engine and exhaust.


I assumed the exhaust would be an issue. I have a full Termi system that was installed previously. As hideous as it is (weld wise), I’m hoping I can have it altered to work with the deep sump.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just went out to the garage to check on this exhaust fitment issue and it appears to fit just fine. Perhaps something will become more clear once the engine is in the frame, but for now :



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the engine hung in the frame last night. Hoping to sort out exhaust and reinstall all the ancillaries on Friday. The last bit of the puzzle will be cooling system. The 999 cooling manifold is so much tidier than the 998 arrangement of a mass of hoses. I'd prefer to use the 999 setup, but the hoses aren't in the correct positions. I'll have to either sort a 999 radiator to fit or make some hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Decided to try to stick with the 998 radiator as it was in great shape. I mounted it and removed the fans and cut off a couple of brackets to tuck it back as far as I could toward the cylinder head.

Looks like I’ll have plenty of room for the 23.5* rake/ 28mm offset triples setup I hope to acquire.

The 998 hoses fit right on with the exception of the lower hose. So I cut it to fit and zipped it on. The 999 coolant manifold doesn’t allow for the 998 overflow reservoir to bolt atop the horizontal cylinder, so I’m going to have to get a reservoir of a different shape and figure fasten it elsewhere.

I also picked up a used 1098 oil cooler as it mounts much cleaner than the ridiculous 998 Bracket setup and offers a bit more surface area.

Now I’m just waiting on a fuel pump flange o-ring and this thing should fire up. Otherwise I have several odds and ends - air filters, chain and sprockets etc that I need to decide on.



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coolant bleed runs from the right side of the plastic bottle to the left side of the coolant manifold on the rear cylinder head. dont mistake the overflow on the bottle at the filler cap as the bleed to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
coolant bleed runs from the right side of the plastic bottle to the left side of the coolant manifold on the rear cylinder head. dont mistake the overflow on the bottle at the filler cap as the bleed to the engine.


Thanks for the heads up. I’ll double check the routing and flowpath before I get it all together.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got the little things buttoned up and the fuel system complete. Fired it up and found a couple of odd leaks.

Because this is a 999 engine which uses coil on plug the valve covers have a stud that serves as the fastening point for the 999 coils. I converted this machine to Coil on plug also, but used some Kawasaki ZX6RR coils that don’t have a mounting hole; they just fasten to the spark plug.

In order to get the coil at the right angle for clean install i had to remove the studs. We’ll go figure, these stud holes go all the way through and leaked oil


So I had to replace them with bolts with very shallow heads so the connector could pass over them.


Got the cooling system bled, currently waiting on my aftermarket catch can/reservoir that I’ll mount next to the coolant manifold.

Last issue is no coolant gauge. The 999 doesn’t have an analogue gauge and therefore doesn’t have a provision for the signal wire to connect to from the 998 harness. I’ve heard stories about the inaccuracies of the stock 998 instrument, so I may get an aftermarket sensor and stick it into the radiator hose and see if I can find one to work within the voltage ranges of the OEM gauge.

Worst case scenario I’ll replace the entire sensor and gauge with an aftermarket one that i know i can trust.

And just to confirm - 998 full Termi system fits the deep sump engine without issue.


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Am I seeing a frame crack in your pics ? Check the rust spots near the welds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Am I seeing a frame crack in your pics ? Check the rust spots near the welds.


Made me go double check! Just surface rust. It’s a shame, but the frame isn’t getting touched at this point. Next time the engine is out it’ll get a once over and painting.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Purchase a coolant temp sensor housing to run in the upper radiator hose as the 999 engine doesn’t have a provision for one.

One i get a chance to run and bleed the system I’ll try to verify the sensor and gauges accuracy with a thermometer.




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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Turns out the damn thermistor is bad. I have no idea the resistance level I’m supposed to see when ohming it out, but when I put the connector wire to ground the gauge sweeps. So before I can say this works without doubt, I’ll have to source another thermistor.


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