[jsmorris]

As mentioned, I am starting a build for a track/race harness for my 998. I started with a Microtech M197 ECU from Mark at Ducshop. After looking through my 2002 Ducati Service Manual I realized that the harness is split into two different sections of the manual. I set out to combine them and after getting the bits edited around to look right I realized that the tags identifying each component had overlap. Item 1 on one diagram was the right hand controls, and item 1 on the other was the ECU, so I had to eliminate the item numbers and label each item with the factory name. Attached is my final completed stock diagram that I hope is useful to you.

 

[jsmorris]

Next I sent this to a local print shop and got 4 copies printed on 24"x36" and started to markup the wiring that I want to keep and eliminate. Since I am going to eliminate a bunch of the controls, lights, indicators, relays etc there isn't a real need to have the front harness and rear harness included as separate harnesses. I will simply remove the rear harness (and relocate the diagnostic plug) and remove the round metal connector for the front harness, running full length wires all the way to the point where they will plug into the mini harnesses that I keep up front.

Items to eliminate up front:
Front brake light switch
Turn indicators
Turn indicator dummy light in the dash
Horn
Headlight
Headlight high beam relay
Headlight high beam dummy light in the dash
Left hand controls (flash to pass, high beam button, horn button, turn indicator button)

Items to eliminate in the middle:
Key switch
Turn indicator flasher
Rear brake light switch
Sidestand safety switch (maybe, I may repurpose it)

Items to eliminate in the back:
Turn indicators
Taillight
Number plate light

I still have to nail down the side stand safety switch and how it works. I want to eliminate it from the starter relay circuit so I can start with the side stand down, but I want to add it with the neutral safety switch such that the bike cannot be in gear with the side stand down, and running. I'll have to lay that out as I modify the diagram.

There will also have to be some modification to wire routing for the key switch such that the kill (Off/Run) switch in the Right Hand Controls handles the function of activating the gauge backlights, oil pressure light, fan switch, etc.

 

[jsmorris]

I started shopping for some things I knew I would need. Connectors were my first thought, and I snatched up a Monster S4 complete harness for $69 on eBay with the correct Magnetti Marelli connectors for the ECU, but it will also have a majority of the connectors I need for all of the engine functions. I am going to pick up new sockets for the MM ECU connector here. That harness I purchased has an ECU so I will likely be selling it back on eBay to recoup some cash.

I also snagged a front harness from an older 996 with the 22 pin round connector just so I could have a set of connectors at the front, $19 on eBay. This will allow me to use the mating connectors for the Instrument Panel (2 connectors) and RH Control Switch. In addition, as I cut these wires I am going to use this as a test harness to figure out all of my wire gages.

Wires: I found 4RCustoms Wire that has striped wires available as short as 5ft length. I didn't know the difference between GXL and TXL wires, so after emailing [email protected] asking for samples I heard from Bob that same day that samples are on the way and he sent me the stock sheet which is an inventory snapshot so not useful to post here. My hope is to use this wiring for the wires where I am running new and eliminating a connector.

I have found Tyco AMP Superseal connectors on Amazon and eBay with pins/sockets, so I will likely grab those up if necessary. I believe all of the AMP Superseal connectors on the bike are 1.5mm pins.

Tools: I need a crimper for AMP Superseal, and probably for other sockets/pins. I could use some help on this topic. I already have a pin/socket extractor for AMP. I also picked up a new small gage wire stripper from Lowes for $10.

 

[Punch]

Side stand and neutral. Depends on whether you keep the neutral light.

 

[jsmorris]

Side stand and neutral. Depends on whether you keep the neutral light.

Thanks Richard! That is perfect.
BTW, I assume me "liking" your post counts as a response.

 

[Punch]

No worries.
Suggest you check then "logic" of the diagrams I posted before doing it.

 

[SDA]

A little info I've distilled in my search for correct materials:
XLPE wire designations refer to the insulation weight(thickness). As best as I can tell all moto manufacturers use TXL to save weight and unless you do a very poor job in your wiring design and execution the TXL is plenty heavy.

The most important thing I learned about wire is that all, or all that I have ever seen, wire that you buy at auto parts stores is cheap PVC insulated wire, whereas auto and moto manufacturers only use XLPE (cross-linked polyethylene) insulated wire which is far more durable as far as withstanding UV, chemical and heat exposure.

• XLPE-TXL Light Insulation
• XLPE-GXL Medium insulation
• XLPE-SXL Heavy insulation
• SGX X-heavy insulation-battery cable

Happy wiring,
Stephan

 

[jsmorris]

Stephan, Good info. I can add that based on my measurements my factory wiring in 22-16 gage appears to be TXL equivalent insulation as compared to the samples from 4RCustoms.

Working on editing that factory diagram to take out everything that I don't need and change a couple of circuit functions.

I am considering the idea to take the key switch functions and wiring them into the Run/Off switch. This is how the Run/Off loading would look:
-Energizing ECU BODY27 (ACIN) pin. (It's only OEM function)
-Energizing the Ignition Relay, and then also energizing the Starter Relay when the Start Button is pushed.
-Energizing ECU BODY17 (KEYSENSE) pin.
-Energizing a total of 5 gauge backlights.

My concern is that is too much for that light duty Run/Off switch, as indicated by the by the heavy gage wires on the Key Switch. Perhaps I repurpose the high beam relay up front to work from the Run/Off switch and let the relay do all of this work?

 

[jsmorris]

I have made some progress. The two harnesses that I spoke of previously have been disassembled and they will be used purely for connectors at this point. I did have some success in both disassembling and depinning the ECU connectors for a 59M ECU. The pins come out nicely with a sewing pin.

I also finished modifying the stock wiring diagram with the changes for track/race only. The highlights are the removal of all exterior lighting and indication, horn, left hand controls, key switch, and turn indicator and high beam relays, and I removed the round metal connector for the front harness completely. This was all done in Mac Paint X with simple cut and paste. I have printed 24"x36" copies ($1.19 at local print shop) of each iteration for markup which makes modifying the print much easier.

The key switch has been replaced by the repurposed headlight high beam relay that is activated from the Run/Stop switch on the right side controls. I had to also change the power supply to the right hand controls so it is upstream of the key switch relay. The relay keeps the amperage load on the switch very light.

The neutral switch has a jumper into the start circuit now such that it can also provide ground to the "blocking" sense of the ECU that was solely the job of the side stand switch. Now the bike can be started with the side stand down or up as long as the bike is in neutral. If in gear and the side stand down then the bike shuts off/won't crank. Thank-you @Punch for the details.

See attached "race" schematic for your track bike reference. I also attached my final 2002 Ducati 998 Harness Schematic with labelling for your reference.

I have the remaining terminals, terminal seals, and now wire on order (thanks @SDA for the detail) and should be ready to start fabrication later this week. That leads to a question; does anyone know of a good universal wire wrap that isn't tacky? I recall a clear silicon wrap that is maybe 1/2" wide and it wraps spirally along your strand of wires and can flex to a larger diameter as wires are added. Anyone have any ideas? It would be nice to retain the ability to add a wire in, especially on a track harness. I appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Punch]

It is called spiral wire wrap. Hobby electronics stores would probably have it.

 

[zeppo]

nice work!

 

[jsmorris]

Thanks @Punch , that is exactly what I had in mind. Now I'm trying to decide if it will look cheesy on a motorcycle.

 

[Punch]

Personally I would not use it except maybe for the testing phase.
It would look much nicer wrapped/heatshrunk.

 

[jsmorris]

As previously mentioned I was going to pick up contacts for the factory ECU connectors from this guy. Price is 28.80 pounds, $35.34, plus shipping. So I started looking for an alternative knowing that these contacts are not unique to Ducs and there is no way that they are close to $0.70 each. After a lot of searching and some guesswork I found a seller in the UK that peddles Magnetti Marelli ECU connectors for Moto & Auto applications that sells them for $0.12 each in lots of 25pc. You gotta pay to get them here (USA), but that's a wash in either option.

ATP Industries Group Ltd.
+44 (0) 1543 427 906
www.atpelectronics.co.uk
[email protected]
eBay: ecusdirect

You want the "small" Magnetti Marelli contacts, there are two sizes so don't mess that up. It appears that the largest wire that will install in these connectors is 20AWG. I tried 18AWG TXL and it won't fit. Also, I recommend a decent crimper that can crimp the wire and insulation at once. And finally, I had to use the 28-24AWG slot on my crimper to get the crimp small enough to fit into the connector with 20AWG TXL. In the picture of contacts below the one on the right fit, but the one on the left did not, so clean crimps are a must.

 

[jsmorris]

Here are a few notes about disassembling the ECU connectors as they can be tricky.

1. Remove the latch. Notice how the latch and connector have a gate on the axis of rotation that allows the latch to be removed from the axle.

2. Remove the back shell. There are two small tabs that pull outward and allow the shell to slide forward away form the wiring leads. This little awl is my primary disassembly tool.

3. OPTIONAL: Remove the wire retainer up and out of the back of the connector with the little awl. There is a 3-4mm thick bed of goo in here, and I would suggesting leaving it in tact if possible because new pins pass right through it without issue. This is your primary water intrusion resistance. You do not have to remove this retainer to remove contacts, it is optional for a complete disassembly.

4. Slide the contact lock bar (yellow on this connector set) over. Contacts cannot be removed or installed unless this bar is slid out of the way.

5. Remove contacts with your borrowed sewing (release) pin. My release pin mics at 0.0231in (0.587mm). One thing to keep in mind, there are contact release holes on 2 sides of the contact on the front face of the connector, but there is only 1 contact locking tab. So if you put the release pin in one hole and the contact cannot be gently pulled out the back of the connector then simply move the release pin to the other hole and try again. The release pin will hit the contact locking tab in one or the other.

Contacts are installed from the backside of the connector until you hear or feel the contact locking tab click, and then the contact lock bar can slide back into its closed position to keep the contacts in position.

 

[SDA]

This is the best split loom I've found. available in 5 different sizes from Revival Cycles.

Pro-grade Split-Loom (weave type)

Finish the ends and intersections with cloth wiring harness tape.

Pro-Grade Industrial Cloth Wiring Harness Tape

 

[jsmorris]

I have the harness fully assembled and installed. I am working on the testing phase and I’m trying to troubleshoot a couple of issues.
First of all, when I switch the right hand controls to run position I get dash lights, I’m able to crank the starter with the start button, but the fuel pump does not prime. I can hear the run relay switch, and the new ignition relay, but the ECU is not grounding the wire for the fuel pump relay.

I measure 12V going to the ECU for power supply and 12V for keysense, but I’m not sure what the ECM is missing to ground the fuel pump relay wire

 

[jsmorris]

I figured out that ECU BODY 5 pin for fuel pump is actually BODY 6 and my eyes are bad, or there was 1 too many beers involved that day. That was realized with the assistance of the other two factory 998s that are sitting next to this track bike. After changing that pin location to 6 the fuel pump primes correctly, but I don't have fuel pump or spark during cranking.

I audited the ECU ENGINE connector and found that both of the pins for the MOT sensor were mispinned by 1 hole. I believe this was keeping the ECU from seeing RPM, which then caused it to not ground the fuel pump relay, which meant the coils and injectors didn't get any ground. After changing these I was able to get the bike to start and run. Everything seems to function correctly.

Next step is to loom the harness and hang it in place, then bodywork!

No worries.
Suggest you check then "logic" of the diagrams I posted before doing it.

The logic is correct. I initially installed the diode in backward and things didn't work correctly. Flipping the direction around the way you drew it gave me kickstand engine operation in neutral, but shifting into gear with side stand down kills the engine. Exactly what I wanted.
Incidentally, after I had to remove the diode and switch directions I decided to install it in fuse 7 spot. It fits in tight enough like the tabs of a fuse that I don't see any way it will wiggle out. This gives me the ability to change the diode if necessary.

 

[draganc]

Excellent information and thanks a bunch for sharing!!!
I’m about 6 months behind you with a similar project (999R engine in a 916) and your research will safe me a ton of time. Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jsmorris]

My track bike is done. The new harness is 100% new wire, new pins/sockets/seals, some new connectors and a few used connectors and used fuse holder, and only the connections necessary to make the engine run are included. The only switch left on the bike is the run/stop switch. And then the start button remains. All other electrical switches and all keyed features are removed and no wiring is ran for them.

I did the schematic and my 13 year old did much of the fab work. It’s amazing how many styles of crimpers, sockets, pins, seals, etc that I accumulated to put this together. I even eliminated the fan/starter relay connector style from the big and replaced with Superseals like the fuel tank connection. But I still think there are at least 5 types of connector that I repinned.

The most annyong connectors are the air sensor and the throttle position sensor. The connector back seal goes over the wires first, then the connector, then crimp the sockets on the leads, then they slide back into the connector, then the front seal. You gotta get it all assembled before you crimp.

AMP Superseal 1.5 are the easy ones, and most of the connectors are this style.

Relay and fuse holders are easy as well, but they both have unique terminals.