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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK... I am at a loss.........

How do you get the roller bearings out of the 998 swingarm?

I got the needle bearings out easily enough but I can't get the other side to move in either direction.

Do they get pulled together? If not, how do you separate them?
 

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Probably just stuck and persistence will prevail. I can’t say I know, never having one apart (so my opinion is less then valued- ha), but looking at the breakdown, unless there’s a stop lip in the swing arm that won’t allow the bearing, bushing to go in and out in either direction, probably just being stubborn as long as you're driving it straight in the bore. Spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit overnight and try again. Have you ever used Kroil? Great stuff -- some of the BEST penetrating spray that I‘ve ever used.... You definitely know when it leaves the can… pretty potent stuff -- but WORKS!! :cool:

My $0.02 fwiw
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I looked at the exploded parts diagram and didn't see any evidence of lands for the bearings, but the spacer between the two bearings puts me in mind of the wheel bearings, which definitely do have a land for each, between the bearings.

On the other hand, there doesn't appear to be any way to get at them from between them to push them out from the inside, like a wheel bearing, because the spacer has a sleeve.

Anyone out there done one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice find! Thanks!

This makes sense in that I pressed those bearings pretty darned hard and saw absolutely no movement.

Now all I have to do is to figure out how the hell you get at the inner aspect of the bearing race to "pull" it out when it is obscured by the sleeve in the spacer!

I suppose that the spacer is designed as a sacrificial component at servicing.:mad:
 

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I’m thinking get #33 Bushing (smallest Dia.) out of there which should expose the other spacers and allow you to drive the inner spacer #23 out (may come out with #33 if lucky) - then the brgs. Shouldn’t be sacrificial -- but then again……. If you can work on #23 (inner spacer) should get one brg out, then the other brg would be a piece of cake. Or getting one # 32 bushing out would expose the rest of it giving you an edge to work with.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the second set of eyes on this Ron........

#33 comes out of #23 and it comes out easily. It is actually the outer bits of #23 that are the issue. You can see this at point 1 in the upper diagram that you have provided in post #4 of this thread. You can also see this as part #4 in the lower of those diagrams. Note those little "wings" that enter the bearings. That spacer inserts about 50% of the way through the bearing.

In the diagran you provided in post #6 of this thread, #23 is that same "spacer" between the bearings, but unlike the spacer between wheel bearings that just butts up to the inner races of the bearings, #23 has those short outer parts (wings) that actually enter the inner bearing races about 50% of the way through, and it obscures the inside edge of both races. It is obviously supposed to be there because #33 slides right inside #23 with a perfect fit. This leaves absolutely no purchase on anything between the outer edges of the two bearings except that portion of #23 that enters the bearing. It cannot be more than 0.010 thick, so it won't provide much of a purchase to try to push against in an attempt to push #23 and one bearing.

That is why I wonder if #23 must be sacrificed to expose an inner edge of one of those bearings. Even if this was the case, I have no idea how Ducati would design this sacrifice so as to expose one of the inner bearing edges....

Well me and Mr. Dremel have some idea...........
but somehow this doesn't make much sense as a service design...........
 

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If you haven’t already got it -- I was just thinking spacer #23 has enough material to work with that putting a couple of small notches 180 degrees from each other in the center of the bushing ID to place a drift into them, that would allow you to alternate blows working one bearing out without damage and would expose an edge of one bearing. Clean up any burrs left with no real damage as long as bushing #33 slides easily.

Another option if you have access to a lathe, mill, (hacksaw if no mill) and slide hammer, make an expanding collet that can be placed into #32 for removal to expose the edge of #23 and you’re home free.

I would think #23 and #32 is a fairly light fit into the bearing inner bore, not a heavy press fit, so working the bushings out evenly (not working too much on one side that has the potential to wedge the bushing in place), once started would slide out pretty easy, or relatively so.. . I do understand those 2 bushings butt up against each other in the ID of the brg. so no edge is exposed.
 

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Its stuck, most common on 916 style bikes, unfortunately.
Brute force is what you have to use.

Grease it up real well and it wont get stuck again, I had mine apart 2007 and then I greased it up real well and I just took it off today again with just the push of the finger.
 

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here we go

I PMed Brian already but if anyone needs info on this all you need is a 18MM socket and press the sleave/spacer which will push the bearing out too. Then all you have to do is press the second bearing out or use a bearing puller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I PMed Brian already but if anyone needs info on this all you need is a 18MM socket and press the sleave/spacer which will push the bearing out too. Then all you have to do is press the second bearing out or use a bearing puller.
Yes, indeed, pushing on the lip of that spacer is the answer. It pushes the spacer and the other bearing out quite easily. The only problem is that the process folds up the lip of the spacer against which the socket is pushing. I guess that the spacer actually is designed as a sacrificial component.
 

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yeah the aluminum isn't the best quality, so it might get messed up. I used the 18 mm socket and a hammer on my DSSA and it came right out but the bearings have only been in there for 4 years. The older single sided swingarm I had to press out. BTW Brian did you have rust on the bearings. that's one reason I changed mine out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, there was no rust, but the needle bearings seemed loose on the pivot shaft so they are out.



On another bearing matter, the large bearing in the hub seems very loose. Is this normal for an "angular contact double row ball bearing?

I cannot find a source for this bearing from any of the local bearing supply houses.
Worse than that, it is not demonstrated in the Ducati parts manual (none of the hub parts are), so the Ducati dealership can't help either.....

Any ideas on how to source a BAH 0062 X12 bearing??
 

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I might be able to help you on the hub bearings. I got the bearings through work. Most of the Duc shops told me I had to buy the complete Hub assembly. I found the sealed ball bearings here in town at a local shop and had to order the roller bearing and two seals. The roller bearing and seals took a while to get but worked great. Ill send you the bearing info for the hub stuff tomorrow afternoon. Ill find the roller bearing and two sealed bearings for the pivot of the swingarm too. Might try ebay, thats another place I found some of the parts.
 

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Is there anywhere to order the following online?:

- 22 (x2)
- 32 (x2)
- 20 (x2)
- 21 (x2)

Anyone have a link, or have the part numbers to these handy?

Thanks
Oscar
 

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Ended up calling North American Warhorse. Ordered everything except for #21 which I have 4 of for some reason.
 

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Are the bearing set tools critical or can you eye ball the placement of the bearings? Basically as long as the end seals fit evenly on both sides we are good to go right?
 
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