[s74cker]

The bike was not running for some time. And since I got it running almost 4 weeks ago, the clutch fluid quickly got dark. It is possible that moisture found its way into the system and caused the
clutch fluid to degrade.

I attached a vacuum pump to the slave cyliner, pumped vacuum pump to build pressure. Then pump the clutch lever a couple of times, then closed the valve before all the pressure from the vacuum pump is down all the way. I did this a few times until the fluid was clear.

After bleeding the clutch, the neutral light stays on through all gears.

Searching this forum suggests that the neutral switch may be grounded or going bad. Where is the neutral switch located? I had a bit of a spill when filling the reservoir. Would it be possible that a short in the controls under the reservoir is causing the neutral switch to stay on?

Did I bleed it wrong? Do I pull the clutch lever, close the valve then let go of the clutch lever?

 

[s74cker]

After watching the following Youtube video on how to bleed the clutch, I realized that I bled the system all wrong and quite possibly introduce air into the system by pumping the clutch lever. I'll bleed it again, and take the other steps of cleaning the slave cylinder assembly as shown in this video.

It does not explaing the neutral light on though

 

[jahjah]

Looks like you drew a vacuum and pulled the dirty fluid out. A little faster if you suck most of the fluid out of the master(from the top) and fill with clean before your start, but same result. Nice job. Good photos. Shouldn't have to move the clutch lever though. The compensation port will be open with the lever released. That's the beauty of the pump.

Best to look at a wiring diagram, locate the neutral switch and see if you can determine what connector(s) the circuit goes through. I assume somehow you are grounding it(drowning it).

Clever user name.

 

[vij]

Looks like you drew a vacuum and pulled the dirty fluid out. A little faster if you suck most of the fluid out of the master(from the top) and fill with clean before your start, but same result. Nice job. Good photos. Shouldn't have to move the clutch lever though. The compensation port will be open with the lever released. That's the beauty of the pump.

Best to look at a wiring diagram, locate the neutral switch and see if you can determine what connector(s) the circuit goes through. I assume somehow you are grounding it(drowning it).

Clever user name.

The neutral switch is on the rear side a bit to the right of the crank case. Bkack singke cabel on most ducatis. On modern Ducatis it isn't really a switch in normal meaning.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

[s74cker]

Hopefully this weekend I can work on this. Does anyone have a picture of the where the neutral switch is on the 998?

 

[xracer]

Here

Clutch side, back of engine. You will see a single wire coming from the back of the engine. Pics not the best, sorry.

 

[s74cker]

Thank you for the picture - I see it from the shot you posted.
What tool(s) if any is needed?
Sorry if these are simple questions, my tools are a walk away from where i have the bike stored.

Thank you.

Here

Clutch side, back of engine. You will see a single wire coming from the back of the engine. Pics not the best, sorry.

 

[xracer]

Just for shits and giggles, did you at any stage unplug your oil pressure switch?

 

[xracer]

Deep 12 or 13mm socket, long nose pliers and small fingers.

 

[s74cker]

No I did not. Would unplugging the oil pressure switch cause the neutral light to stay on through all the gears?

Just for shits and giggles, did you at any stage unplug your oil pressure switch?

 

[xracer]

neutral and oil pressure switch use the same plug, seen people (me included)plug one into the other.