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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

The bike is a 996 with 1000DS motor in it, I bought the bike "as-is" and the previous build work was done by a reputable mechanic.

The steering is notchy and the steering head bearings need to be replaced.

I have the top triple off but I can't seem to get the steering stem nut off. I'm using the correct tool from HDESA, when I try to loosen the nut the entire steering stem turns inside the lower triple, rather than the cap unscrewing from the step.

What am I doing wrong? Is there a step I'm missing?
 

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Hello all,

The bike is a 996 with 1000DS motor in it, I bought the bike "as-is" and the previous build work was done by a reputable mechanic.

The steering is notchy and the steering head bearings need to be replaced.

I have the top triple off but I can't seem to get the steering stem nut off. I'm using the correct tool from HDESA, when I try to loosen the nut the entire steering stem turns inside the lower triple, rather than the cap unscrewing from the step.

What am I doing wrong? Is there a step I'm missing?
If you have the hollow stem where you can insert an internal pipe wrench from below, that would be your best bet IMHO.

If you have the same lower triple that I have, and you can't insert anything into the stem, I am at a loss for what to recommend.

The only lower triple I've ever completely disassembled was from an old oil boiler GSXR. The stem on it is simply pressed into the lower with a round section circlip so it kind of locks itself into the lower. It too would turn if torque on the stem nut exceeded what the circlip lock could resist.

I've never had need to attempt the same with my 996 so I can't relay any solid advice there. On my 900SS which I just did this exact job on a few months back, the stem and lower would not separate, even with a rather large and expensive hydraulic press that I have access to....good thing then that I had another that was undamaged to use in its place...........sean
 

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Undo it so you can see about 3mm of thread. Loctite it then do it up. When the loctite sets then you should be able to undo the top nut.
They don’t have a hole in the lower clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Undo it so you can see about 3mm of thread. Loctite it then do it up. When the loctite sets then you should be able to undo the top nut.
They don’t have a hole in the lower clamp.
Thank you, I'll give it a shot!
 

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916 and therefore, I assume 996, stem is screwed into the clamp (unlike SS/Monster that are pressed in). I swapped the clamp on mine for a 56mm Ohlins version and had to remove the stem to fit it to the Ohlins clamp.

I got a couple of blocks with the Ohlins part that clamp the stem in a vice so it was a simple enough job to do but I used some heat to break the seal as I assumed it was strongly loctited in place.





 

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Undo it so you can see about 3mm of thread. Loctite it then do it up. When the loctite sets then you should be able to undo the top nut.
They don’t have a hole in the lower clamp.
I'd use Wick in Loctite for a belt and braces approach as it's thinner and will run right down the stem thread.
 

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"belt and braces" = "belt and suspenders" .... meaning using an abundance of caution ... (for us Americans not familiar with the term). A nearly arcane turn of phrase considering it was coined nearly 100 years back in the UK.

Definitely not Twitter speak. :giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, that didn't go as planned. I backed the stem too far out and the lower triple came off in my hand. The way the threads were recessed, by the time I saw them to be able to get locktite on them it was too late.

Trying to thread it back on and it gets two turns into the lower triple before seizing. Trying to clean the threads with an actual thread file, but not having much luck. I'll keep at it for another few days as I have time, but I may just give up and cut the nut off and replace it, likely the full triple actually.
 

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Just clean it with acetone, loctite it and screw it in those two threads and see if you can release the top nut.
get it all out then you can fix it without butchering anything.
Warm the nut up with a heat gun too.
 

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Been a while since I dismantled mine so I don't remember exactly how it's held in and, obviously it's designed to come out downwards but if everything was removed (forks etc.) would it be possible to pull the entire eccentric housing assembly out through the top of the frame, to get at it on the bench?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good news is that I was able to get the threads cleaned up with a thread file and could reassemble the lower triple to the stem properly. The bad news is that my tube of thread locker is dried out. Two steps forward, one step back.

I picked some up on my way to work tonight, I'll assemble tomorrow morning and let it cure then.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Solved. Thanks guys. I wanted to get that done while the frame was still attached to give me the leverage to disassemble. Now I'm down to pulling the frame for cleaning, blast and powder and the swingarm for a deep cleanse.
 
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