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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have a 2000 996 that has been giving me a headache with the charging system. I paid a Ducati mechanic to fix it a few months ago and they replaced the rectifier and the battery and they installed a new connector behind the battery where the rectifier and stator join. It appeared to have resolved the problem but I let he bike sit for a few days without riding it and then it wouldn't start because the battery was low. I tried charging it and it would not charge properly. I was able to get it to start up again but then it had the same issues as before. the idle slowly went down and then it died.

I don't want to deal with the shop any more, what is the solution to this problem? I have heard that other people wire a larger sized wire directly from the stator to the rectifier or is it just the connector that is the issue and can this be fixed by simply soldering the leads directly together and eliminate the connector?

Please help, Thank you.
 

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I suspect the battery needs replacing.

The best way to assess battery health is to take it to an auto supply store and have them do a load test. A load test determines if the battery can deliver its rated current to a resistance similar to that of a starter motor without dropping below a voltage threshold value.

Alternatively, you can simulate this test by first charging the battery (a healthy fully charged battery should measure about 12.6 volts) and then remove the fuse to the fuel pump so that when the engine is cranked it won't start. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals as it cranks. If the voltage drops into the upper-9 volt range, you need a new battery.
 

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fix?

tell the shop you have the same problem,maybe they will take another look at no $$$.you should have a warranty.maybe a bad battery?
 

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Matt
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Check the big fuse to the right battery (towards the front of the bike). This is the main fuse that isolates the battery from the rest of the electrical system. One reason this fuse blows is if the battery is put in backwards. It's easy to check so it's a quick starting point.

If the fuse is good and considering that you have a new rectifier and battery, check the yellow wires that come from the stator and the connections between those wires and the rectifier to make sure nothing is melted. If that's good, check to see that you are getting power from your stator. You can do that using a voltmeter - - you should see approx 60 volts AC between the two wires going to the stator when the bike is running at a few thousand RPM. If not then you have a problem with the stator or the wires coming from it.

The connectors that come with the new rectifiers are really cheap and are prone to issues (bad connections that results in melting down a connector). And with the new rectifiers there is an extra connector that ends up in the system because of the supplied whip that comes with it. On my bikes I remove those cheap connectors and replace one connection with a high quality connector and I solder the other where the second connector isn't necessary. Or you can just solder both connections which makes it robust, but more of a pain to service if you ever need to take them apart.
 

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I had a similar issue on my 996. Some sort of parasitic drain in the main harness.... I finally ran the black/red wires straight from the RR to the battery.....huge improvement.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
still having problems

The battery was installed new with a full charge 2 months ago when they replaced the rectifier regulator. Yesterday I gave it a full charge and put it back in the bike and it started up fine. I rode it for maybe 5 miles to the grocery and then home from work. This morning I went to start it up and it would barely crank over WTF?

I don't trust the shop, they have had this bike 3 times now and I told them the very first time it was having a charging issue and they have repeatedly failed to diagnose and repair. It is supposed to be a Ducati specific shop too which is very sad.

Anyways. I will need to repair myself. I'm just looking for suggestions on what to do. Seems to appear that the majority of responses to my question are that the solution lies with directly soldering the wire from the stator to the rectifier. I also ordered a small digital voltage meter as suggested.

What else? I love this bike, just wish it was more reliable. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
PARASITIC BATTERY DRAW?

I am starting to think this may be the culprit because this problem started right after I installed LED integrated turn signals and an under seat light to illuminate my license plate. I don't know how this could affect the battery because when bike is turned off the lights also turn off. strange, I think I will try wiring the RR directly to the battery though. Is that an agreed upon remedy for this issue?
 

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Matt
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I am starting to think this may be the culprit because this problem started right after I installed LED integrated turn signals and an under seat light to illuminate my license plate. I don't know how this could affect the battery because when bike is turned off the lights also turn off. strange, I think I will try wiring the RR directly to the battery though. Is that an agreed upon remedy for this issue?
If you wire the battery direct to the rectifier you've then removed the protection for your electrical system against over-current or reverse polarity situations. I think you need to figure out if the issue is from the system not charging the battery -or- parasitic drain while the bike is sitting (and rule out a bad battery as others said, but your battery is quite new so it's less likely to be the issue...but not out of the realm of possibility). Check the big fuse to the right of the battery - - that's a 1 minute check. Then perhaps try topping the battery off with a charger, but don't run the bike..let it sit and see if the battery voltage drops off and if it does that would suggest parasitic drain. If it doesn't then the drain you are seeing is coming from use while the bike is running and the system simply isn't properly recharging the battery on it's own.
 
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fully charge batt. then take to have it tested.most batt. stores will load test free.after you have a multimeter check voltage at batt. should be 14.3V. follow this; BikeBoy.org - Charging system diagnosis procedure more good reading; https://www.roadstercycle.com/
follow the link, every step in order.

you need to stop speculating and start fixing.

i wouldn't wire the regulator to battery direct without a fuse or breaker of some sort. but going outside the bike's wiring loom there is something i do a lot. you can get quite a bit of voltage drop through the loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
connectors fried

I checked the fuses and they were all good. Then I took off the battery cradle and that revealed both RR connectors fried, one more than the other.

WTF. How do I fix this, I have no faith in the shop and at 135/hr I am not even considering taking it back to them.
 

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fuck a mcfuckin duck. that's looking with your eyes closed for sure.

the connectors are just fine, so i refit those ones so that everything original fits nicely if needs be later. if you can't get them then use anything capable of carrying the load. bullet terminals are better than flat blade imo, especially for the 3 yellows.

i'd bypass the loom between battery and reg too, but put an inline fuse in or get some terminals to use the original maxi fuse block. that's what i do. very rare to see the 4 way one melted.
 

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Matt
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Well, on the bright side you are closer to a solution today than you were yesterday. Your battery and rectifier are new, and your stator appears to be working :)

My view is it boils down to the fact that these connects really suck. Replace them with better connectors (or solder directly if you'd prefer). Chances are likely that everything else is ok and that this will resolve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
direct soldering

I marked the wires before clipping the burnt connectors off and I tried to solder them but they didn't want to be soldered together, i tried using flux too and it still didn't work. the wires appear to be fried too, will this prevent them from taking solder?
 

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It won't matter which 3 yellow wires go to the other 3 yellow wires, so you needn't worry about that.

If the wires are not clean they will not solder just like dirty or rusty metal will not weld.

You can get a pack of 8 gauge butt connectors for the wires and call it a job well done. Heat shrink the job if you want to be a pro.

I made it 280+ miles on my old 748 just twisting the wires together by hand. Those were the days, when nothing mattered.
 

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Dirty connectors as per the ones shown in your photos will cause resistance and therefore heat. Essentially, it causes the connection to arc and then heat up. Eventually, you get what you have shown, if not worse. The connectors themselves are not the issue - it's the dirt - it holds moisture and itself prevents conductivity. At this point, you have to replace the block connector or at least clean everything with a blast of carb cleaner and then check the other connectors.

An easy way to check for parasitic loss is to disconnect the pos cable from the batt with the ign switch off and then connect the cable on one side and the batt post on the other to an ammeter (amps on a multimeter) and see if there is current draw. A light bulb run in series will also tell you the same thing. If you have draw, you will have a reading or a dimly lit bulb.

But the first thing to do is critically evaluate all your connections. Dirt is the killer. Only after you have gotten back to zero should you consider any modifications.
 

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Best fix for this is replace the three yellow wires all the way back to the alternator, fit 3 spade terminals at the other end and plug them straight onto the terminals at the regulator with no mid joint.
Simple enough to unplug the spades to remove the battery carrier when you need.

davy
 

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996 ChaRGING ISSUE

The wires have sufferred from heat...You need to strip the wires back to where there is no discoloration and then use a CRIMP connector method of electrically connecting the wires instead of solder..
This should work for you.
Another thing I did was to address the pathetic wires used for the headlamps...I ran a number 14 black wire from headlamps straight to ground and used a 12V relay from Radio Shack rated at 20 or 40 amps(cant recall) .
I used the stock wiring to power the relays as its a small load and used the relay to switch the Red #14 wire to power the lamps high and low beam...You run the red wire from the battery positive to a fused line then to the relays switched poles then to the headlamp positive wire..
I eventually wired the stock switches so the Bright position turned off the lights for more beefy starting...then both lights were on when I rode...never had a car flash me or pull in front of me either...though I could just be fortunate there..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think i fixed it

bike seems to be working fine for now, very excited to install the volt meter, it has not arrived yet. I was wondering if low voltage will cause the tach to act funky because occasionally before it would stay at 0 when idling and then when I would rev engine it would bounce around and didn't seem accurate. Tach is now working fine, just curious if there is a relation to these issues.

Thank you all for your help.
 

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bike seems to be working fine for now

Thank you all for your help.
Well...what did you do? It would be nice to get answer for that, since next time someone has similar problem he /she could find answer right away from here.. Its really annoying to look information from google for example..you found what seems to be perfect thread for your similar problem, then you look last message and it says "fixed", "works now" or something and then nothing more..
 
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