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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. This is a bit of a mission-critical kind of thing. As my car goes into the body shop tomorrow morning I need this bike to get to work. So this issue has to be resolved yet today/tonight.

PO installed a LED bulb which sucked. Last week I installed a H4 Hella 130/90 bulb. Now before you start, I know this bulb was not going to perform at it's max due to the stock wiring being so light, But I was planning on doing the relay with large wires direct to battery thing this coming week. Figured I could get by for the little riding I would be doing from then until now.

But Friday the headlight died. Thought it might be the fuse. Nope, not the fuse. Then maybe the bulb. Not the bulb. Time to tear everything apart and start chasing wires.

What I've determined so far. No power at the bulb socket. No power at the high/low switch solder points. But there is power at the connection of harness to left-hand controls. And here's where it gets really weird. As you can see in the photos, the high/low switch has black/green/white wires. The harness side connector has black/green/white wires and there is power at the black/green wires.

The catch is, and you really have to study the 2 connectors to get this, the controls side black/green wires DO NOT line up with the black/green wires on the harness side. The black/green (hot) wires line with the blue & grey wires on the controls connector. (in the photo the grey wire is immediately adjacent to the blue wire but look white) And I'm unable to determine where those wires go to. In fact to add to the confusion the high/low flasher switch has white w/blue and yellow w/green wires that don't show up at the connector at all.

To be certain, I did double check the wires on the control side. the black/green/whites wires to terminate at the connector as the black/green/wire wires. However (FWIW) the 2 wires for the high/low flasher do not terminate at the connector at all. But one can see the wires of the high/low flasher going into the wire wrap heading toward the connector. But, as I said, they don't show up.

Finally, the wires going to the headlight are black/white and yellow w/black

As you look at the photos the male connector is the left-hand controls and the female connector is the (bike) harness.

Hope this makes sense.

I'm confounded. I've done automotive wiring before but you could count on the wire colors being consistent from one end of the car to the other. In this case there seems to be no consistency. And I NEED this bike to work tomorrow morning!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried that but that makes even less sense. If you follow where the blk/grn/wht wires on the control side to where they mate on the harness and then check for power on the harness side, there is none. Example the green wire on the control side goes to a brown wire on the harness side. (I think the green is + for the low beam) The blk wire on the control side mates to the wht wire on the harness side (blk is grd) and the wht wire on control side mates to the yellow w/blk on the harness side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A little difficult to determine what is behind the no power to headlight when nothing matches up. I can confirm where the headlight socket wires go to on the harness but that doesn't line up with what I see in the high/low switch. And the wires from the high/low flasher go into the wire wrap bundle but don't show up at the connector. This is just too weird.
 

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Doesn't the IE have a headlight relay? That would be my first point to check. Putting a bulb in that draws double of what the wiring and relay is designed for could've easily fried something
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Actually I don't think it does have a relay. There are only 2 relay looking pieces in the nose/cavity behind the headlight. One sounds like the fuel pump relay and the other says "Flasher" which I'm assuming is for the turn signals. Nothing else around there looks like a relay. The only other relay looking thing I can find is on the ECU under the seat. I'm thinking that has to do with the overall running of the bike.

As primitive as this bike is I'd be rather surprised if it had a relay for the headlight. Maybe another 900ssie guy knows better than I.
 

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As primitive as this bike is I'd be rather surprised if it had a relay for the headlight. Maybe another 900ssie guy knows better than I.
Definitely no relay for the lighting in a stock harness..

As per attached wiring diagram, the headlight wiring you are looking for is Brown, Yellow/black and white.
In the coloured diagram, I used bright green for white.
Brown to the switch common (which before a connector is yellow/red), then the other two for high and low from the switch.

This is for a 2001 with the A8 ECU, whereas yours will have the A0, however that does not affect the lighting or indeed most of the bike.
 

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This might help. Don't see a head light relay in the schematic. If there is no power at the headlight socket then trace back to where you do have power. The answer lies somewhere in between.

A connector may have gotten warm and melted enough to a) allow the terminal within to be pushed out of contact or b) deform enough to deny contact to the specific terminals within.

Alternatively, you could have a ground wire that has burned through at the connection point. IE, the wire could still be attached by the insulation but the wires where they were crimped have burned in half. Hope that helps some. BTW, what are you using to check for power?.....sean
 

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Also do not concern yourself with colours of the wires to the switch.

The switch will be something generic that is prewired with those colours and bear no impact on the colours in the harness.
The important thing is where the switch wires connect to in the connector.
Electricity does not care about insulation colours!

With a multimeter on 20Vdc, I would start at the fuse box to check for V into and out of the fuse.
Then brown at the connector to see if you still have V, then so on as per the coloured diagram.

You can also test the switch with the multimeter on resistance scale.
You will find the common, then in one switch position there will be zero resistance between common and one wire, then in the other position, infinite resistance.
 

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And be warned - those blade fuses can fail, and still look OK. You have to actually electrically test them to be 100% sure they're OK. As in pull them out, and test across the terminals on the ohms setting.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I got it sorted out last night. Seems AMS sent me the wrong fusebox cover. This cover had the headlight circuit in a different place than it really was (is.) A bit of GIGO (garbage in garbage out) It was a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and all is right again with the exception of... wait for it... the handle bar (clip-on really) controls. Seems I have forgotten how all the pieces go together. DUH!!!

Anyone have a photo of the inside of both halves of the left handle bar controls? That's all that's keeping me from having the bike street-able again.

Thank you too who were kind enough to offer help and suggestions.

Michael
 

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Well I got it sorted out last night. Seems AMS sent me the wrong fusebox cover. This cover had the headlight circuit in a different place than it really was (is.) A bit of GIGO (garbage in garbage out) It was a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and all is right again with the exception of... wait for it... the handle bar (clip-on really) controls. Seems I have forgotten how all the pieces go together. DUH!!!

Anyone have a photo of the inside of both halves of the left handle bar controls? That's all that's keeping me from having the bike street-able again.

Thank you too who were kind enough to offer help and suggestions.

Michael
If nobody responds before I get home I will take mine apart for you and post pics.
 

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Glad you got it sorted out. I have a switch that just came in the mail last night I can pop apart and take a picture in a few minutes. If Peevedkitten get it put up before me, I apologize for being tardy.....sean
 

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pics of the cover inside





That's the top half, bottom half below



The bottom half is the turn signal section so I didn't go beyond the mechanism.......sean
 

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I see Iwannaduc beat me to it and went deeper than I did. Here's what I took pics of tonight: https://imgur.com/gallery/RTnP3AA

Let me know if you need more pics.

Edit: I've used some variation of Madcat as my call sign for the past 25 years. It's gotten impossible to get Madcat as a forum name or game name of any kind, so I just use a variation now.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got everything back together last night. And lucky me, I even had parts left over!! Seriously I do have a couple of pieces left over of which I think I will need to examine another control unit to determine where the 2 pieces go.

Now bike has a 55 watt Bi Zenon H4 HID. HUGE improvement over everything else I've tried. However the cutoff line on low beam is pretty crappy. I'm beginning to think the poor quality of the lighting is more a function of the reflector than anything else. Even when I had a conventional halogen bulb in the light, focus, beam spread, basically everything about it was abysmal.

I'll try a bit of adjusting but I think this is as good as it's going to get without doing MAJOR surgery to the headlight assembly.

Michael

P.S. Thanks again to all who helped on this. When I was unable to trace the issue I was seriously starting to freak just a bit.
 

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Got everything back together last night. And lucky me, I even had parts left over!! Seriously I do have a couple of pieces left over of which I think I will need to examine another control unit to determine where the 2 pieces go.

Now bike has a 55 watt Bi Zenon H4 HID. HUGE improvement over everything else I've tried. However the cutoff line on low beam is pretty crappy. I'm beginning to think the poor quality of the lighting is more a function of the reflector than anything else. Even when I had a conventional halogen bulb in the light, focus, beam spread, basically everything about it was abysmal.

I'll try a bit of adjusting but I think this is as good as it's going to get without doing MAJOR surgery to the headlight assembly.

Michael

P.S. Thanks again to all who helped on this. When I was unable to trace the issue I was seriously starting to freak just a bit.
We've all been there! I owned only a bike for transportation for about 10 years. Maintenance on your only vehicle can be harrowing sometime.

I'm planning to re-wire the entire 900 eventually and replace the headlight. I may look around and see if I can come up with a drop in replacement assembly for the entire thing. It shouldn't be to difficult to find one the right size and just fab a new bracket or adapter for it. I'll document it all when I do it.
 

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My memory is failing. I use my iPad or phone and take pics so I know how things go back together. The iPad is much better with the big screen pics. You can see a lot of detail. If that isn’t handy I’ll draw a picture.
 
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