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Discussion Starter #82
looking in the cylinder with a scope , we could see carbon build up on the valve and piston top. could see areas of the piston top that carbon had flaked off. could only see one valve seat and it looked nice and shiny. no evidence of a valve hitting the piston. that being said when I started it up it sounded BAD ASS!

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Discussion Starter #83
Did an official valve clearance check on the vertical cylinder today. I was told by the last rider that all was good. Well I'm glad I checked. A little pain because the shock is in the way of the exhaust valve, so have to get that out of the way.
exhaust valve
opener. 0
closer. .23mm

intake valve
opener. .16mm
closer. .18mm

going to order a shim kit. any suggestions?

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Discussion Starter #84
Thank you Brad for excellent videos!! Some people's videos that I have seen are not very good.

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Discussion Starter #85
I didn't know if I was going to be able to get the big aftermarket coils to fit , but looks pretty good. I want to use the air/battery box. and not zip tie the battery up front where it was.


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going to order a shim kit. any suggestions?
Mike sold EMS to LT Snyder who does the very high-quality manuals.

Mike fine-tuned the kits over the years to have the supplied shims focused on the sizes that are most often needed for each engine size and type.

Curated as it were. So, get a kit from LT.

EMSDUC

Thanks,

M./
 

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Discussion Starter #87
The inner cam shaft pulls cover doesn't look like it was installed correctly.


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contact L.T. --Desmo Times and get the kit from him
 

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I didn't know if I was going to be able to get the big aftermarket coils to fit , but looks pretty good. I want to use the air/battery box. and not zip tie the battery up front where it was.
Good job on the install.

FWIW, people should be able to go with the green Dynas which are 3-ohms.

(2) 3-ohm coils will pull about 140 watts off the system which it should be able to handle as most of the bikes have 350-450 watt alternators.

I ran the green on my E900 for many years with zero issues.

The 5-ohm are a safe bet at 85 watts draw since it gives you plenty of headroom for heated gear and the like.

HTH.

Thanks,

M./
 

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2016 Hyperstrada 939, 93 900ss, 2017 CRF250L RALLY, 2003 F650GS DAKAR, 1993 KLR250, 1986 HONDA TLR20
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I had those dyna coils mounted on my bike in the stock location it just required some different standoffs to the stock bracket. You can see it in the photo. I have since put ca cycleworks coils in.
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The inner belt cover on the vertical is a a early inner cover that used a toung and groove at the bottom, The early heads had a groove the bottom lip fit into. This went away at some point and for the most part was not a problem. On the back side there are ribs that fit between the fins it looks like yours in not in like it should be.

With age these get brittle and can crack, you do not want this to break and fall into the belts so be gentle with it. Yours looks to be in good condition other than the part that is out of place and rubbing on your timing belt.
 

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On degraded plastics and rubber, I have never found anything that works as well as the Aero 303 product.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CS...65&sprefix=aero%2B303%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-3&th=1

I include a small quantity with all the Motolectric kits so that riders can use it to rejuvenate any deteriorated plastics/rubber while they are doing their install.

The way to use it is to spray it on and leave it. It will sink in. Keep spraying it on until it no longer sinks into the surface. Once you get enough into the item's surface that it will no longer absorb it, the plastic/rubber item will probably look almost new. Might take a couple of days but the only effort involved is just pulling the sprayer trigger. No need to rub it in, it will get in by itself.

I wish I had taken some photos of a 30-year-old turn signal stalk I did the above on some years ago. It went from a highly faded light tan (from the UV damage) back to the dark brown just the same color as it started out.

it really is amazing.

HTH.

Thanks,

M./
 

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Oh! the groove on the rubber bit! neilkingent posted there was noise but did not say metal on metal noise. Yeah, a belt carving that groove would make some noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I see the belt to inner cover plenty and have never heard any additional noise, this is why no one fixes it until they see it. I have seen a belt worn in half and you could not hear a thing .
can I just sand it down? The cam pulls nut is on there tight! I'll have to use an impact it get it loose.

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Yes sanding it would be fine but know that thinner plastic/rubber will be more prone to curl. If you order a replacement new the lower will be metal now and solve the issue for good. I would simply see if you can gently push it back in place or sand it now, if you keep an eye on it you can change it after you decide the bike is a keeper if you feel the need.

I have never seen a wear on the cover cause a kaboom just wear on the cover, if the rubber breaks off that is another story. You should have time as long as you do not put the covers on and then forget it for the next 20 years.
 
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