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2016 Hyperstrada 939, 93 900ss, 2017 CRF250L RALLY, 2003 F650GS DAKAR, 1993 KLR250, 1986 HONDA TLR20
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Don't let this be you.
996948
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LA2SD
What did the drain plug magnet look like?
what was in the bottom of the oil pan?

If the answer is nothing to either I do think your plan to clean everything and run a short oil change interval is a good one. There are many pockets in these cases to trap metal for a later date. What I see for metal and are worth looking for is steel nail clippings that end up on the magnet from transmission break in and should go away with use.

The big one I see is steel chips, powder and a growing amount this is often the main bearings and if it continues you can damage many more parts from the metal in the oil. Rule of thumb is if the engine feels rougher and more vibration and you also see a INCREASING amount of steel on your drain plug you need to run it as little as possible or start putting money aside for a rebuild.

It is never a bad idea on a new to you bike to clean a pan, drop the oil,inspect the filters and if all is good you can put the oil back in. New oil does not help you diagnose the problem as lots of sellers do a oil change as they are selling the bike if you find fresh looking oil AND metal then it is indicating something is going south rapidly.
 

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1993 750SS
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LA2SD
What did the drain plug magnet look like?
what was in the bottom of the oil pan?

If the answer is nothing to either I do think your plan to clean everything and run a short oil change interval is a good one. There are many pockets in these cases to trap metal for a later date. What I see for metal and are worth looking for is steel nail clippings that end up on the magnet from transmission break in and should go away with use.

The big one I see is steel chips, powder and a growing amount this is often the main bearings and if it continues you can damage many more parts from the metal in the oil. Rule of thumb is if the engine feels rougher and more vibration and you also see a INCREASING amount of steel on your drain plug you need to run it as little as possible or start putting money aside for a rebuild.

It is never a bad idea on a new to you bike to clean a pan, drop the oil,inspect the filters and if all is good you can put the oil back in. New oil does not help you diagnose the problem as lots of sellers do a oil change as they are selling the bike if you find fresh looking oil AND metal then it is indicating something is going south rapidly.
Thanks, Ducvet. Despite the bike being 27 years old, it only had about 7,200 miles on the clock. So perhaps the stuff I found was leftover from the break-in. That would be a best case scenario in my book.

I didn't drop the pan during the oil change. I only drained the oil, cleaned the screen/mesh filter, and replaced the old cartridge filter. The magnetic drain plug looked great. No metal chips or clippings. There may have been some very fine particles that I had to clean off the magnet, but that was it.

I haven't tested compression, but there hasn't been a reduction in power since I've been riding it. It pulls and accelerates just fine. And the vibrations don't really kick in until the tach approaches 7-8K. I don't have bar weights, so I can feel it a bit more, but it's nothing excessive.

Do you think that I should drop the pan now? Or wait until I hit my 500 mile mark?
 

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I would wait as what you described sounds normal often enough.
Keep im mind a 900carby in stock form will peak around 7000rpm and start dropping. One in my dyno that was close to stock dropped 4hp between 7000 and 8000. That extra vibrations may be the bike telling you to shift.
Thanks for your time and advice. I sincerely appreciate it.
 

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Looks mean nothing for belts, replace them... or else! (I know you said you have them on order)
 

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Do Not Under any Circumstances Touch That Starter Button Without Replacing those Belts FIRST
 

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Since you have been in touch with previous owners, can any of them document a date when those belts were changed? A while ago can mean 3 years or 11 and the belts would look like yours.

Despite the low miles, I see an indication that the vertical head has been removed - you say you hear noise from around there? The tensioner pulleys look dry but tight and the bearings look good.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Do Not Under any Circumstances Touch That Starter Button Without Replacing those Belts FIRST
thats been done. The belts are not causing the racket im hearing. Doesn't matter how new or old the belts are. They are not the problem.

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Perhaps the valve dropped and then the belts were replaced? In any case, noise from the head is not healthy. Got a scope to look in the sparkplug hole for damage?
 

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Discussion Starter #72
No I don't have a scope. Im hoping when I pull the belt and valve covers I'll be able to find the problem.

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Discussion Starter #75
That's good to know. my friend down the street said he'd bring his home from the shop tomorrow

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I may have missed it in all the posts. But Have you pulled the rocker covers yet? It does not happen often but maybe a broken rocker arm, I think I remember you saying that one cylinder was running & the other was not--Broken rocker arm could cause evil noises plus not allow that cylinder to run. using a bore scope will allow you to see if the valves opening & closing.
 

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I think (and hope) this is the thread with the engine making a clacking sound on the vertical cylinder.

When changing the belts, it is possible for the helper spring on the vertical cylinder to misalign the pulley about one tooth and be off when the belt is installed.

As shown in the photos below, the alignment marks don't really line up in the first place and that makes it extra easy to get the pulley offset.

The engine will start and run and the vertical makes a halatious racket.

If it was me, I would re-align the lower pulley with the checkmark and check the upper pulley.

Based on the other guys who I know had this issue, you can just align the pulley properly and the engine will not have been damaged.

You do need to hold the pulley in the proper alignment while fitting the belt over the teeth.

HTH.

Thanks,

M./


belt_change_engine.jpg belt_change_horizontal.jpg belt_change_vertical.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #78
well, pulled the belts off today. when comparing the cams the vertical seemed considerably harder to turn especially when depressing the intake valve, and at top dead center rocking it forward and reverse. Took the intake cover off and moved the opener over to check the intake valve. checked out ok. Checked with a bore scope and all seemed fine. a little carbon build up but no piston damage and can still see cross hatch on the cylinder wall. This bike has 42k miles on it. Anyway after jacking with it for awhile the cam seemed to turn fine. Put the belts back on. started it up and the top end noise is gone and all I can hear is the clutch makin racket!

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A possibility for the cam drag NOT the noise ....

Any time you shut a engine off some of the valves are open, if it sits for a while corrosion starts to build up on the valve seats. If this corrosion gets thick enough you end up with a tight closer, loose opener (which cause top end noise depending on how loose). Some time when you then start the motor and run it the once open valve is now hammering on the carbon and often it knocks it off getting back to normal. I say often because plenty of times you will end you with Damaged seats and valves from material (like carbon) pitting valves and seats and this is a major source of poor leakdown on the intake.

Nothing to tear the engine down for you simply make sure valves are close to spec and run the motor paying attention to abnormal things, if possible after running it for a bit you can re-do a leakdown test and see if the valve is sealing . If yes you are done, if no then you need a valve job (not adjust). up to 20% cold leakdown is acceptable you always prefer closer to 10% (zero never happens), with 40,000 miles a little is allowed as you can imagine how many times it has sat for long periods building corrosion on the seats. This is a major reason race bikes get the top ends freshened frequently as the higher the leakdown = the lower the power.

In your case you may have knocked the carbon or corrosion off and the cam will turn freely now as it should and the clearances should return back closer to normal. Pay close attention to any abnormal noises as you go forward and when you change belts check for drag on that cam again. The other reasons for a dragging cam it a tight closer which can damage rocker arms and the cams. Or worse is a bent valve which could easily happen if someone put a belt on 1 tooth off, bent valves do not get better they usually end up looking like the picture above- broken.
 
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