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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It’s a little bit silly, but how tightly on the springs is the headlight installed? The spring shouldn’t be all the way compressed, should it?
 

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It’s a little bit silly, but how tightly on the springs is the headlight installed? The spring shouldn’t be all the way compressed, should it?
The springs are there as a range of adjustment to get the beam orientation to your liking. I install them about half way, then point the bike at a wall straight and level at about 30 feet to get the orientation correct. The top one is "easily" accessible with the fairing installed by removing the black plastic dot on the fairing - for a vertical adjustment to compensate for a passenger or extra baggage.

This is also why some SS's appear to have the headlight protruding slightly, and other seem to be flush, depending on how far the headlamp was screwed in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The springs are there as a range of adjustment to get the beam orientation to your liking. I install them about half way, then point the bike at a wall straight and level at about 30 feet to get the orientation correct. The top one is "easily" accessible with the fairing installed by removing the black plastic dot on the fairing - for a vertical adjustment to compensate for a passenger or extra baggage.

This is also why some SS's appear to have the headlight protruding slightly, and other seem to be flush, depending on how far the headlamp was screwed in.
Eh, thank you! Does yours vibrate? Mine does quite a bit, but it may be normal.
 

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Do you still have the rubber surround? That dampens more of the vibration when you have left a bit of play in the springs. If you do have it and it is hard hard hard from age, you might want to look into replacing it. OEM is still available last time I looked, but Home Depot has something that will work just as well since it is all but completely hidden.

IME I noticed that if the springs are totally compressed it has more vibration,... I left the rubber bit off for several months and was not all that happy with it gone because it leaked light back into the cockpit even after painting the protruding (intruding?) edges with high temp paint.

If all these tips (psyoppers too) do not work to your satisfaction you can put rubber washers on the frame bolts everywhere the center fairing mounts, (4 spots as I recall), but rebuilding the front forks eliminated so much of the vibration that I can ignore the minor shaking of the 85w bulb at the edges of the light pattern so I did not try this. Switching to bar end mirrors eliminated the other reason I was going to try isolating the jiggle since the OEM mirrors are just about worthless.

Also, the roads where I live are generally rubber coated and very smooth even when they are concrete as we have no winter freezing. Your vision and roads may vary from my experience. And I have driven in MA, your roads around Boston are hardscrabble and narrow even when not under construction but worst are the cobblestones down in the old part of the city in the Back Bay. Although the western part of the state has better roads it tends to be rather flat and dull - New Beige?

*edit BTW - these bikes vibrate normally and if you are seeing it in your headlights be sure to frequently go around the bike checking the tightness of all the bolts. Bodywork of course, but also the kickstand, rear turn signals, taillight, rear hugger and surprisingly - the clutch cover and oil cooler mount bolts.
 

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i measured mine before i pulled it apart and the side screws were about 35mm out from the plastic nut things, and the top one maybe 45mm. which i'll find out when i put it all back together if that's any good or not aim and protrusion wise. you should be able to align it sticking out the front of the fairing wise as you like it within reason for good aim.
 

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Thankfully, my springs were not too tight. Today, i grabbed a new headlight bulb for my 96 and and an allen wrench for the upper fairing. I forgot my screwdriver, but was able to push back on the spring enough to release each screw a remove the headlight and get the bulb replaced. Reinstalling was just as easy. My headlight does protrude past the fairing.
 

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yes, you don't undo the screws to remove the headlight. you push back against the springs and slide off the spring head. moving the screws screws with the aim and alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
New Beige?
That’s New Bedford for you.

The rubber piece is still intact. I noticed something when I was looking at it last night. The black surrounding that mounts to the adjustment screws, that itself is the bit that’s actually shaking, not the spring-ed mounting part, as if it’s not strong enough for the weight of the headlight. Hmmm...

Speaking of vibration, I learned the lesson a few weeks back when the bolts holding clutch slave cylinder came loose. I now check bolts on the regular basis.
 
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