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No rush on my end, feel better and let me know when you have the time.

Now for a public safety announcement:
Early rear calipers used a swaged pin retention and nothing else. with many miles the pin rocks in its bore and will egg out the bore causing the swage to not hold the pin in the bore. Inspect the pin to caliper fit and if the pin is not snug at the swage then you should either replace the caliper or simply drill the pin and safety wire or somehow add another retention method as a back up. If you already have a E-clip or a hole and clip you should be fine, still not a bad idea to inspect the pin hole on the pin head side and look for the hole to be worn.
 

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Damn man .. you're moving along really well! Just keep on keepin on ... you'll be in the saddle in no time!
 

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Discussion Starter #163
I got this thrown on today, open package galfer line. 29 shipped so saved a few pennies there. She's a bit long with the clip ons but it'll be fine.

I didn't feel good about bolting this up to the stock Slave...which I was told is fine. I really feel it needs a Evolozone or Yoyodine clutch slave to be period correct. But I'm gonna resist the urge...bleed this week and make sure I've got clutch engagement and it's all working.

Then I'll try starting r up! Getting close to amazing enjoyment of a start...or debugging...

Taking bets....50/50?


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Keep in mind that stock/oem clutch slave cylinder is rebuildable. You can still get a kit with the piston, seal, and spring from Ducati for pretty cheap if you run into any issues.

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #167
Well shit sticks, got the clutch bled, so that's good. Seems like the master, slave and all the internals clutch wise are GTG and feels quite nice, a bit heavy.

Got new plugs in, and all associated stuff from the new coils

Battery was charging for the past couple days.

Got everything buttoned up, and she's dead...D E A D DEAD. I get zero response of any kind from turning on the ignition. Now it did turn on and start before, that was 10 months ago.

So I grab'd the old MultiMeter, which is of course dead...so can't test battery, but showed "green" on my charger. And it is in fact the standard MASSIVE battery that takes the entire tray and you can see the fluid inside, old school battery.

Main 30amp fuse, which looked like the original was dead, the type with the actual fuse wire seemingly exposed and visible from the top..appeared blown, so I put a new one in hoping that was the problem. But it was not. Electrical problems, are my voluntary Kryptonite. One of the reasons I got new coils and battery wiring (my cables will be here at some point) was to just remove those as trouble points. But sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet I'm not even getting that far with electricity :)

Gona get a battery for my voltmeter, and then start tracking it down.

In terms of my cables that we were talking about earlier. Sitting on the bike, the positive cable can reach either side of the bike and comes out of the solonoid on that side of the bike that's hanging from the 2 tabs with rubber. The negative, I believe, is coming out of a wire bundle on the left, clutch slave, side of the bike. The 3rd negative, when traced back, is about 4 inches long and connects to a lug on the right, clutch discs, side of the bike just up there by the solenoid. I have NO idea which negative connection this would connect to, it's ultra short, and while i can sandwich it between the frame and airbox...it's already connected to the frame in what appears to be this bikes main ground end point.

I have to go to NZ in about 13 days, so I don't think I'll get her started before then it doesn't look like. BUT ON THE BRIGHT SIDE, clutch feels great and I'm gonna order the rear bodywork from those Karmena dudes while I'm in NZ. The electrical issues will beat me down, so I need to offset that with other fixes and projects on the bike to keep my motivation high. Who knows, with enough electrical problems, this project may get that 1000ds Swingarm and a brand new exhaust :)
 

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I dont know if the battery is a brand new one -or if it's a battery you have had for a while, If the battery is an older one you need to do a load test -you do this after a full charge and let it sit for about 30 min-then do a load test--you may just have a battery with one or more dead cells--they can still show a full charge yet they dont really have a full charge---This is the first and most simple thing to check---remember check the easy stuff first
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
---remember check the easy stuff first
You said it, and after typing all that crap, realizing that battery could be old....is stupid on my part. Reading up on the ol' Haynes.....I guess i'll start by checking that General Relay. Reading some threads, and that fuse being blown, sounds like I have a hot wire shorting. Anyone have any links or tips on just cleaning up the wiring harness, I know for a fact mine is very twisted.
 

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Here's a great way to debug a shorted wiring harness . Take that blown fuse out of the trash and solder in /wire a good sized bulb across the terminals - at least a brake light or better an old sealed beam headlight - something that will draw some current. Plugging this setup into a good wiring with loads disconnected should not light the bulb.
If you plug this light/fuse into your shorted wiring fuse position it will light up and thus protect your wiring. Then you can poke around and wiggle the harness and or disconnect stuff 'till the light goes out or flickers - this will indicate you have found the problem location.
Of course, a dim light indicates a high resistance short or draw.
No smoke !!
Good Luck,
Jim
 

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Here's a great way to debug a shorted wiring harness . Take that blown fuse out of the trash and solder in /wire a good sized bulb across the terminals - at least a brake light or better an
/-----------------/
No smoke !!
Good Luck,
Jim
Your post reminded me of watching an old guy diagnose a short in a wiring harness of an old bike over 30 years ago.

The bike literally only had 2 fuses, a Main and a Lighting fuse I believe. Old glass tube type fuses.

It was a 1966 W650 Kawasaki. If the bike hit a bump on the highway, it would blow the Main fuse.

The old guy stripped the bike down, and put a cut down piece of a nail in place of the Main fuse.

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!

Then he turned the key to the on position and started shaking and wiggling the main harness, never taking his hand off the key.

When he saw a plume of smoke rise out of the harness near a frame point, he flicked the key off...he had found the raw wire!

He fixed the raw wire, rewrapped the harness, and sent the customer down the road. Cost the customer less than $50.00 to get his lovely old bike back in running condition.
 

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That general relay is likely to be the culprit here as no lights at all come on the dash with at least some charge on the battery. It is probably loose.
 

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I had a wire rub through on the back side of the harness against the frame. I fixed this but then cut all the zip ties holding the harness to the frame and fixed everything else that didn’t look good. In my case it was the wiring to the VR.
 

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When he saw a plume of smoke rise out of the harness near a frame point, he flicked the key off...he had found the raw wire!
That's what's neat about the light bulb - you won't need a fire extinguisher.
Also - if you're checking lighter wiring, use a smaller bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
ok, I've been reading up on some various threads, and now I really wish my stupid new battery wiring stuff was here because it would eliminate some things. So if you look at the pics I've got things wrong.

From a riding position on the bike, on the RIGHT side I have:
The little ground wire, that goes from the lug on the frame to what I believe should be negative on the battery. It is only long enough to do this.
The positive wire coming out of the regulator/solenoid thing hanging from the frame/airbox. This wire is long enough to reach EITHER side of the bike

on the LEFT side I have:
A negative wire coming out of the harness that goes up to the dash. This wire is only long enough to reach this side of the bike.

So what I'm left with, is 1 negative wire on each side of the bike. And each one is ONLY long enough to reach THAT side of the bike, and more than that. Looks correctly placed since one comes out of the harness, and 1 CLEARLY attaches to the frame lug (didn't remove it from there) and is only long enough to reach the battery.

Till this is sorted, no sense is debugging anything else. So what do ya'll think this used to look like.

977534
 

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The connections on my bike:

Negative (Black)
1) From the negative terminal on the battery to leftside of the frame. (I think it is attached to the point were the battery box is attached to the frame)
2) From the engine to the frame (right side of the bike, engine to footrest mounting point)

Positive (Red)
1) From the battery to the starter solenoid
2) From the battery to the wiring harness

There was some kind of 'splitter' on the positive wire. The positive lead coming from the battery was connected to that splitter and from that splitter one lead went to the starter solenoid, the other one dissapeared into the wiring harness. When I upgraded to thicker wires I ran one lead directly from the battery to the starter solenoid (so avoiding that 'splitter' thing).

Here you can see a diagram of the battery wiring. The 'splitter'-thing I was talking about is on lead nr 22. I kept the splitter thing for the wire to the main harness but I removed the one from the splitter to the starter solenoid and made a direct connection from the battery to the starter solenoid. So there are 2 cables starting from the positive terminal on my battery (one to the splitter/main harnass, one to the starter solenoid).
 

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Discussion Starter #177
The connections on my bike:

Negative (Black)
1) From the negative terminal on the battery to leftside of the frame. (I think it is attached to the point were the battery box is attached to the frame)
2) From the engine to the frame (right side of the bike, engine to footrest mounting point)

Positive (Red)
1) From the battery to the starter solenoid
2) From the battery to the wiring harness
Your negative makes sense......battery negative is ground into the Chassis, on your bike under the airbox on the left, on my CR, this happens to a frame lug on the right. So I can emulate this, and then connect my Positive (not sure about the split) as it will reach.

But that will leave me with the Negative lead coming out of the harness which goes up to the front? I can't tell from that diagram where this would be?

Everything I'm reading speaks like your bike. Nobody seems to have a negative coming out of the harness on the left/clutch slave side of the bike like in my photo it seems like?

I don't understand how I have 2 negative leads, waiting to be attached to the battery, but each one is on different sides of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Well double farts, I went and hooked it all up the other way, with Negative Batt to Frame Ground, then Positive Solonoid to Positive Batt, and the negative coming out of harness to bolt on battery box mount. Same result, totally deadness, with zero sounds of any type. As soon as my wife comes home with the car I'll go try to get a battery for my voltmeter to see if this battery is dead. My charger, is idiot light, so no way to tell from it really.
 

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there's a white plug that connects to the back of the starter solenoid, make sure that is FIRMLY in place, it's for the starter button signal input, it's common for it to work loose. if that's it i'd suggest using a zip tie through the two wires on the plug around the solenoid to keep it in contact
 
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