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For fuel line you may want to contact Bing International here in the U.S. they have a fuel line that is really good plus it is ethanol proof, it does not break down, Now it is not cheap but it will last especially if you are running pump fuel with ethanol. It is made for gravity feed systems but since these 900ss bikes only have around 2 lb fuel pressure in the system this fuel line is the cats ass
 

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yes these lines would be for exterior of the tank --but talk to the guys at Bing these may work inside the tank as well they would know for sure
 

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See my post on "in tank" fuel hose - for an ST4 but relevant here.

 

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Discussion Starter #145
Ok I think I'm smoking crack. Was gonna throw the brake pads back in and out the calipers on....and uh, looks to me like I have no idea how these pads ever worked with these calipers.

Can someone else confirm I'm crazy, and why??

Should they be the single pin in the center? I'm.ultra corn fuzzed. These pads 100% came out of these calipers and I see no way that could ever have worked.



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I'm with you on the part about how they could never have worked.....probably damned lucky they didn't fall out on first application...I pedal...alot. I see improperly installed brake pads that got spit out of cars and bikes in the bike lanes all the time. My pads look just like the EBCs in your last pic...........sean
 

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That pad you say came out of the caliper looks exactly like the rear pads for a BMW R1100S and other BMW's lol thats fcuked up lol-----also I know I'll get flak for this but --DONT use those EBC pads I would not use those in my worst enemy's bike. ---but I dont see how that pad was in those calipers it could not be held in place
 

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The evil elves have been visiting in the wee hours.lol
 

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Ok, so I've gone crazy. Why do I have 2 sets of brake pads for calipers that I have never seen or owned, and why are they in the parts box for the bike I'm working on which is the ONLY bike I'm working on.
You are just getting old man, oldman, better order that new pads before you forget what it was that you needed to order.
 

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Discussion Starter #153 (Edited)
Ok EBC pads in the calipers...having to use some RC car body clips to hold the pin in for now. I'll get something better, although I recon these would be fine.

Today is a big day! My plan is to get these installed and bolted up legit.

Then I'm gonna install my new Coils, plugs, wires. I don't want to wonder if I'm getting good spark and crap when I run into running issues.

Then I'm gonna get as much hose connections as I can setup, I hope it's all of em. I have my triangle boxes so I'm setting this up pure stock for now.

I have no idea where my Motolectric cables are...I emailed em no response yet.

But regardless I should be a charged battery away from a test start...and maybe even a little test ride in the apartment complex. I recon fore sure this can happen this week!!

Slowest project ever...chug chug


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Well Damn get the battery charged while you doing the other things. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Well a Dallas Cowboys loss got me down I to the garage in anger. But it was getting dark so all I could do was install the calipers....anti sieze on the Ti bolts and I should be good.

With my clip ons the brake lines are a wee bit long but I suppose it will be fine. I'm pretty happy with all that I must say, and I learned a lot, looks pretty nice too!!! I need to torque all the tripple bolts, add grips and a clutch line (I may NOT make my own, I want all the lines to look the same) and bleed the Brake and Clutch Masters and I'm done with something!!!!

Moving reward.....

I started to clean up the rats nest around battery box. But then it was to damn dark to continue I couldn't see shit. But I took some photos to remind me what Coil goes to which CYL.

Facing forward right Coil to Vert Cyl and left Coil to Horizontal Cyl.







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Discussion Starter #156
AwhhhhRight AwhhhhRIGHT awhhhhhhRIIIIIIIGHT. I worked from home today, so I was able to go down and work on the bike!!! First problem, there is a broken off bolt inside the boss the Triangle Vent Canisters would normally connect. So I had enough hose to run the 2 vent hoses from the brass fittings, all the way to the ass of the bike. I REALLY wanted that to be stock in order to best diagnose future carb problems. I don't know yet where I will terminate them. This annoys, me, anyways oneward and upward.

Added some clamps to the hoses under the tank, added the vent drain hose which was missing. Didn't want to pull off the fuel, someday it will get new hose and a clamp.

Then I managed to put on the CA-Cycleworks coils. Noticing how kinda beat up my connectors are into the 2 black boxes, specifically the sensor that comes off the crank side of the bike, I guess this is the coil pickup or some such. I'd like that to not be as f'd up looking but I suppose it's fine, the connectors seem to connect, one is "hard wired" due to a missing connector. I may get an Ignitech and shitcan those things anyways

Otherwise, she buttoned up nice. There were a few hoses going knowwhere, one made of VERY hard plastic. All the wires and hoses were criss crossing all over the place, so I tried to smooth all that out. I dumped some old inline connector for a battery tender.

The only issue I found is that I have 2 negative terminals, one on each side of the bike, and then the positive terminal on just the brake side of the bike. Haynes showes negative on the brake side. So I'll have to dig around and find out what's up. Oh and apparently I don't have a spark plug socket....wtf kinda tool box am I rolling with here guys. So I need to hit HF this evening.

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I gotta order a clutch line so i can start it up, I have no idea what gear it is in at this point.
 

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If the positive is on the right the negative ground cable will usually run to the bottom of the left rear battery box mount. If you have a short ground connection and one of your battery box bolts is long then this is your version.
long bolt though battery box
lower ground connections
lock nut
all under the welded on frame nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Ahhh ok interesting. So looking toward the front of the bike.....the negative I'm seeing (which I believe comes off the solenoid thing that dangles under the airbox, must confirm) would be sandwitched at the airbox mount...so that the ground is sandwitched between locknut and welded on nut which is what the original screw pulls the airbox tight against frame?

Do I have that right, that makes the most sense.
 

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If the wire from the solenoid reaches the right side best it will likely be right side/facing the rear for positive. In that case positive will be at the back on the right and negative toward the back on the left with a long bolt . negative leads sandwiched between the lock nut underneath and the welded on frame tab.

Make sure you are starting with the right battery yb16al-a2 is the yuasa version . Make sure the battery drain tube is in place and zip tied or safety wired, key is the positive cable to tell which way it should be configured. i see them both ways so make whatever one you have clean and it should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #160 (Edited)
Well I woke up feeling like crap so I got to go do a bit of work. Pulled the rear caliper, pads look fine. Cleaned it up in a hot soapy ultrasonic bath. The bolts are gnarly, but they'll have to do for now. I got a good bolt source so I'm gonna make a big order I think.

Anyone know if say, all bolts are 1.5 pitch? I know/think, just can't remember, the pitch on caliper bleeders and banjos is 1.25 but are those fine pitch threads uncommon on Ducati made parts (Vs the banjos and bleeders that bolt into the caliper)?

Anyways caliper looks fine I could move the Pistons and I sanded down the pin that was not even close to smooth.

Dry fitted with the NoS rear brake line.

P.s. anyone waiting on a parts quote I got the car tomorrow so I'll be shipping before lunch and will get you the prices thereafter. Sorry for the delay.

P.s.s good God those bolts look horrible. Seperaring the calipers is a huge pain in the ass but the bolts look as if made of salt/dirt...it's gross

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