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Discussion Starter #121
Ok well as luck would have it, my wife had a little evening planed with some friends who happens to build off roaders and mod cars and lord knows what else. So of course he had an air compressor, and without an air tight seal we were able to launch the pistons out without any trouble. It was his opinion, and he's seen the inside of calipers more than me, that probably didn't need to be done they look perfect inside.

So with that info, I'm PROBABLY going to just put'm back together as is. The pistons look perfect, the seals feel good and I don't think they were leaking. They all launched out with a nice POP and none were seized. This also means I'll probably just clean the rear caliper and use it as is.

I've ordered some bake hose in bulk, as well as a bunch of bleed nipples. Our friend makes his own lines, and it's stupid easy so I've got some stuff on order.

From CHINA, typical aftermarket brake line. 304 stainless..black coated. 25$ for 4 meters (I want to do the lines on my other bikes).

Some AN3 adapter stuff, black aluminum, mostly just so I can get access to the black "crimp" bolt thing that will connect the banjo to the hose. 12 of them for 29$

50 crush washers 5.50$

12 bleed nipples for all my calipers + extra w/rubber cap 11.20$

From Goodrige, 1 each a banjo to connect to my China hose for the rear brakes on the SS. I could have bought many polished or army green (?) from China but I wanted black stuff, so those 2 things cost me damn near 13$ each. Polished ones from China are just a few bucks each, so this really sucks. I think all the stuff I got on order should work fine, perhaps I got something wrong but I think I'll be able to use it all mostly :)

I realize I never share the links to my China products, so let me do that here, this is what I've been buying!


Adapters
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SPEEDWOW-AN3-Straight-PTFE-Hose-End-Fitting-Swivel-For-PTFE-Oil-Fuel-Line-Tube-To-Female/32833494745.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO

Washers
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-Banjo-Bolt-Washers-gaskets-rubber-Pads-seals-M6-m8-m10-m12-50pcs-Free-Shipping-For/32922155612.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO

Bleed nips
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/M10-x-1mm-M8-x-1-25mm-Motorcycle-Brake-Braking-Caliper-Bleed-Screw-Nipple-with-Dust/32959545759.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO

Brake line
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AN3-Automotive-motorcycle-1-8-304-stainless-steel-wire-ptfe-braided-PVC-coverred-brake-line-fuel/32894231972.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO

Titanium Caliper assembly bolts
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wanyifa-Titanium-Bolts-M8-x-20-25-30-35-40-45-60-70mm-Allen-Key-Taper/32850905588.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO

Clip Ons
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Cafe-Racer-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Racing-Adjustable-CNC-31-32-33-35-36-37-39-41-45/32844591849.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.46694c4d7UaKWO
 

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What did you use IN your ultrasonic cleaner. That information is a landmine. I have wd40, but it's flammable so I'm scared. I also have Simple Green - Crystal formula, and it seems to work great if it wont eat off the gold coating.
I just used dish soap. Not even a great deal of it. Just a couple of drops in water, I think my ultrasonic cleaner only holds about 12 oz of water (at the full line) so it was pretty mild.

Dish soap is alkaline and should not be used on an untreated aluminum surface. It WILL corrode it, particularly if not rinsed off fully. I did mine in the ultrasonic and then washed in hot water and left them to dry. I did that with all the pistons and the caliper halves.

Mine was in far worse shape than yours, and was not only coated in brake dust, but also suspension fluid which just glued the brake dust to the calipers.

Let us know how that fabricated line works out....I've done that sort of work for hydraulic systems but I've never attempted brake line. I've seen the crimper machine and it works exactly the same way. I wanna give that a shot one day..........sean
 

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Discussion Starter #123
You know, I thought there was a lot of crimping involved, but the Goodrich kit my buddy had, and the method I'm gonna use. Uses a threaded collar and a little metal fitting to I guess...compress fit, it all together. I've seen some youtube videos on it, and I mean it's a Goodrich kit sooooooooooooooo I am making an assumption that this type of connection is good enough to work well, and then I guess the added benefit is they are re'usable to a degree.
 

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You know, I thought there was a lot of crimping involved, but the Goodrich kit my buddy had, and the method I'm gonna use. Uses a threaded collar and a little metal fitting to I guess...compress fit, it all together. I've seen some youtube videos on it, and I mean it's a Goodrich kit sooooooooooooooo I am making an assumption that this type of connection is good enough to work well, and then I guess the added benefit is they are re'usable to a degree.
I have used the compression brake fittings for SS lines to make my own a few times and never had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Guess I'll go ahead and upload a spreadsheet update. I've massaged it a bit to make more sense and clean it up. Looks like i'm doing ok considering that I've had to buy 2 tools which I'm rolling into overall cost. I don't think I'll have to do some of the things I'm estimating currently, like wheel bearings and brake pads. While I'm waiting on parts from all over the planet, I think I'll get that rear brake off and cleaned up. And then when all this crap comes in, I can get all the brakes setup and done Diddy Done Done!!

In the meantime..I'm afraid I'm only left with carburetors. Which are rebuilt and installed. My throttle is stuck as fark after taking apart the pulley and putting it back on my clip on, so will start to debug that I guess. Then I have to remember how to hook up the fuel to the carbs, hahaah, oh man.

2126 spent so far, that seems "good" lol. I need to sell some shit....WHO NEEDS BEARINGS / BANJOS / CLIP ONS or T-shirts!! HIT ME UP!
 

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Discussion Starter #126
The slowest project in the world continues to ozze forward!!!! I had to wait for the Caliper body o-rings to come from Beavel Heaven, I wanted to find some cheaper but I didn't trust I could and so I wanted to get a set of these to just look at and measure.

They are 10mm OD, 7mm ID, 2mm Thick?Deep?Around? I measured with a digital caliper, and I confess to find almost none that size on the internet. BUT there is probably a good 1mm or so of play on that ID measurement...you COULD go 6.5 or 6mm ID but anything over 10mm wouldn't fit in the recess. But a 9mm, 6mm, 2mm would probably work fine. The ones bevel heaven sent me fit more correctly in the recess than the ones that fell out, which actually appeared smaller a bit than these. OH WELL I'm sure it's fine.

Not easy to find torque specs for the caliper bolts, but M8 is 20nm, so I did that. I put some anti sieze on em.

Put the rest of the bits in a hot bath of water and soap ultrasonically, some things came out nice, some are beyond, like my caliper mounting bolts. I'm sometimes f'n stupid, and why I haven't gotten the right mounting bolts ordered from China is beyond me. I may just go ProBolt Stainless so I can bolt these things up!

And actually now that I've done all this is was really for nothing. But I did learn about these particular brake calipers so there is that.........................
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Well I got back from a long work trip to find some parts...but being an idiot, well. Didn't think caliper bleeders were different from masters. DOH! But now I have a nice surplus of bleeders for masters is anyone needs some!

New M10 1.00 pitch caliper bleeders are on the way.

Speaking of pitch, my caliper mount bolts are the wrong thread pitch. I've opened a dispute to get a refund, let's see how it goes. Also I'm an idiot and didn't realize they were hex only and not an Allen flange. Grrrr all in me.

New M10x35 Allen head on the way!

I got a lot of nice black coated brake line now as well, so Im gonna use it to make a clutch line.

I need to go get my A3 adapter screw thingies for the banjos from the post office so I can make my clutch line . For some reason I really like the idea of making my own lines, it seems ultra simple. And even though it's probably stupid, I may buy the stuff to make the crimp.style and see if I can make a full set for my SC 1000s

Today I got pissed at my progress, said fuck it, and went and dry mounted what I could. Put the top Triplle back on. Got the clip ons and masters all setup mostly.

Looks like I'm about 1mm stop to stop ..if...and my master banjos just miss the dash foam. So I'm lucky there I guess I'll be able to turn the bike. And it looks pretty cool as well in my opinion. Will it clear the fairings....who knows!!!!!

My brake pads have enough meat so I will reassemble this bitch when I get the rest of my Ti bits.

I went ahead and put a new banjo bleeder on the slave as well. I have a box of em from a repair on my 748 and they seem to be working perfect so I threw one on here.

After this I'm done with upgrades for now.

The throttle feels ok...was super sticky before, but I recon it's ok. I really hate this dual cable setup, seems like a big pain in the ass for no reason.

So a battery charge and some hoses and she SHOULD start, she started before. And if she does I'm gonna ride her up and down my street, lol!


Thanks for reading, there is a dude on here making his own CF swingarm for his SS and he'll be done with that before I get my front end rebuilt!!!! I'm doing the best I can and I'm having fun.


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You're moving right along! Looking good as well!

My project is stalled as well. Stupid medical thing getting in the way. Hopefully no more than another four or five days and I'll be back at it.

Yours is cranking along, step by step, inch by inch. Just keep marching forward. You'll get it done!!
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Well had a nice productive day today actually. I got the online Haynes manual for these bikes, so I could figure out how to get the choak back on, make sure my throttle cables were correct and most importantly, hoses back to the carbs.

So carbs are on, airbox is on, throttle is working fine.....it was really stiff at some point, but it's got a nice snap now so I think that's ok.

There are a few hoses that I believed connected up to the airbox, or perhaps some drain on the carbs, that I don't know exactly where they go. One is clear, which looks like a hack so I don't know.

When I got the battery box back on, the wires are a total and complete clusterfuck. So I was gonna pull off the spark plug wires, thinking they would be less fragile than the white connectors. Well it just popped off and is destroyed, the cable seperated from the cap. Everything in there looks like shit so I'm gonna get myself an ignition upgrade kit thingies. I believe there are a couple people selling them on Ebay, I'll do a bit of research, but if anyone has one they recommend that would be great.

Still waiting on the correct caliper bleed nipples and titanium caliper bolts to show up from China, maybe Trumps got'm, big headed bastard!

edit - F it, I just got paid and put some in savings, so CA-Cycleworks coils/cables/plug AND Motoelectric battery cabling area on the way...I had these items as a Phase 1 Upgrade, but I REALLY live in fear of electrical issues so for me it's money well spent to know these new components wont be the cause of problems.

I'm in for JUST under 2500$ now.
 

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In theory, all socket head cap screws are supposed to be grade 8. Are the Chinese following this ? No way to know without testing the bolt. I can say I haven’t broken any. Use thread lock or thread sealant when using stainless steel fasteners to prevent seizing.
 

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In theory, all socket head cap screws are supposed to be grade 8. Are the Chinese following this ? No way to know without testing the bolt. I can say I haven’t broken any. Use thread lock or thread sealant when using stainless steel fasteners to prevent seizing.
Well, it's either theoretical or factual. So is it a fact that ~all~ allen head fasteners are Grade 8 ... or is it just a theory? Also, does that apply to Stainless Steel ones as well, or only carbon steel?

Inquiring minds want to know!!
 

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Well, it's either theoretical or factual. So is it a fact that ~all~ allen head fasteners are Grade 8 ... or is it just a theory? Also, does that apply to Stainless Steel ones as well, or only carbon steel?

Inquiring minds want to know!!
They are supposed to be, which Is why they are not graded like hex head bolts. I just don’t know when they come from countries that may not conform to our engineering practices. You can assume they are grade 8 because they are supposed to be, or assume they are not, because they came from China and sometimes things from China are not what they are supposed to be. I think I’ll err on the side of caution and presume they might not be grade 8.
 

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The problem with fasteners made out of stainless steel is that stainless steel is a family of alloys, not one specific alloy with specific properties and strength. So you need to know the specific stainless alloy that was used in order to know the strength of the bolt, or it needs to be marked like hex bolts are. High quality fasteners specify this on the box or the bolt head itself. This is why some stainless steel parts are not very stainless and rust easily.
 

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My understanding is that stainless steel fasteners should not be used in high strength applications. I replaced engine and body fasteners on my 900SS with stainless bolts. The kits I used specifically did not supply replacements for things like triple clamps, caliper mounts, engine mounts, etc. The galvanized carbon steel fasteners were retained for those applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Pro Bolt sells some coated bolts, I put them on my axle pinch bolts for my SC1000s. The matrix of metallurgy corrosive factors made my head hurt so I think the coating will alleviate some of that worry. The only non factory bolts I've used so far are titanium, used to put my calipers back together. I anti seized and torqued them so I hope they are good. I'll check regularly for a while.

I'll be doing titanium caliper mounting as well, which I guess I'll thread lock and torque. I hope it will be ok, I get all the intricate details of bolts and stuff but I hope properly torqued bolts wont just shear off into oblivion. I suppose it's always possible, but currently based on nothing, I'm not worried. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #140
Went down and got my calipers. New bolts look ultra nice!! I can't wait to get Pole position with my new lightweight calipers!

I also got a bunch of new 1/4 and 5/16 hose'n'clamps to redo the under tank disaster. I'm missing some hoses and it's a lodge podge of hose types, age and finishes. I like these clamps ..they manage to hold in tank FI hose on pumps..so I won't have to ever worry.


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