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I buy Chinese stuff, but I don’t have faith that just because they marked the bolt as grade 5 that it actually is. I would keep that in mind when you’re deciding where to use the bolts, or where not to use them. If the bolt failing could cause a wreck, buy a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Alright well I got the carbs yanked off. That throttle cable is no joke. I pulled off the entire bracket but that didn't make getting the extremely occluded top cable released from the pully any easier. I fear that bitch ain't gonna go back on easily either?

I'll search up on simplifying that throttle.cable setup...do I really need the return cable or whatever??

On the "Ohhhhhhhh discovery front. Looks like the clutch slave side of the bikes can is touching the swingarm...or just missing it. Where the other side has the 1/2 inch gap or what have ye!!

So I'm guessing bent header, or mounting point or incorrectly shimmed swinger?


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There are supposed to be some aluminum spacers where the exhaust cans bolt to the footpeg/hanger for clearance. Looks like the previous owner lost the original mounting hardware.

About 14mm spacer if memory serves. Shouldn't be too hard to fab something up, but an easy fix at any rate.
 

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If you're looking for an aftermarket exhaust I have a set of Viper low mount mufflers in decent condition I would be happy to get rid of for a song.

Also a full set of carbs and some other bits and bobs like master cylinders and rearsets. PM me with any needs or if you want any photos. Mostly just want them to go to a good home for nominal dollars plus cost of shipping, there aren't many of these left in stock-ish trim so demand for OEM parts is low.
 

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usually because the footrest hanger mounts on the frame are bent in. lh ones get bent because some pillions will stand on the lh footrest as they get on, and over time that bends it in. fairly common as such.

if nothing else is obviously fucked up, pull the muffler and put something through the bracket and lever it out.
 

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If you're looking for an aftermarket exhaust I have a set of Viper low mount mufflers in decent condition I would be happy to get rid of for a song.

Also a full set of carbs and some other bits and bobs like master cylinders and rearsets. PM me with any needs or if you want any photos. Mostly just want them to go to a good home for nominal dollars plus cost of shipping, there aren't many of these left in stock-ish trim so demand for OEM parts is low.
I might be interested if he isn't. I'm local too so no shipping. I can hand you cash in person. :grin2: ....sean
 

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On the "Ohhhhhhhh discovery front. Looks like the clutch slave side of the bikes can is touching the swingarm...or just missing it. Where the other side has the 1/2 inch gap or what have ye!!

So I'm guessing bent header, or mounting point or incorrectly shimmed swinger?

Possibly both? I'd take a good look around the pivot point of the swing arm. Mine was cracked quite badly on 3 of the 4 sides right where the pivot area is covered by the chain slider. It was invisible until I removed the swing arm and steam cleaned it. Only then did the crack reveal itself.

I did not notice the exhaust was close to the swing arm so much as I found scrape marks on the swing arm itself which made me investigate the cause. In doing so, I found the spacers missing on the exhaust, the link pipe bent and of all things, bolts far too long for the application with the extra length just poking through the swing arm side of the mount. It was only later that I found the crack. I'm pretty sure the swing arm was incorrectly shimmed also.

I can add pics of the crack if you like...it's pretty ugly.....sean

NM....I just looked at your pics again and you have a steel swing arm....not known for cracks at the pivot.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for all the responses, it will be interesting to see. I'll space those bad boys out for restoration phase 1. Long term I'd like some aftermarkets, and the bike will be a mono so I'll be getting rid of the passenger pegs.

NoneMoreBlack, my exhaust dreams are a bit further into the distance. But send me a PM and share a picture, I'm trying to be frugal by buying things I will eventually want ahead of schedule because some things seem harder to find than I imagined.

I am pretty sure the frame is not bent, because it's been replaced but I'll track her down.

I'm realizing now my bike doesn't have the little black triangles installs where the carbs draw stable air from, I am not sure that I have them either, but I may. Are these integral?
 

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I agree with Brad in that the left side passenger peg mount looks angled inward, this is common as he mentioned. One of my first jobs at the dealership was mounting slip on exhausts on carby supersports. They almost never fit right out of the box , you almost always had loosen and align things and that was when the bikes were new! Everything is on the table to align an exhaust , shims, loosening the whole system and re-aligning, "adjusting" frame mounted hangers and plain old muscling the exhaust into place and tightening it down. All were done and it is a case of whatever it takes.

As to cheap exhausts you could core (properly) what you have for less than $100 if you weld and do the labor. If you do not then you might find a used set of aftermarket cans close to the same price, though they may need re-packing as well so be aware there may be added costs. Then you will need to re-jet in either case and we can discuss the age old factory vs dynojet debate where some jerk will without a doubt mention what you really need is a set of Keihin FCR's that will blow your budget (and he is right,:wink2:). Otherwise you will spend $$ on jetting the bike and then re-spend when you buy the FCR's so realistically you will be saving money by buying the FCR's in the first place and then you will be done with them. >:)

The triangle boxes are a good thing to have and on a restoration you do want them but there are plenty of bikes that do not use them and are fine. Keep in mind you need them to be located where the air will not open the slides prematurely so tuck them away from direct air flow.
 

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... you will need to re-jet in either case and we can discuss the age old factory vs dynojet debate where some jerk will without a doubt mention what you really need is a set of Keihin FCR's that will blow your budget (and he is right,:wink2:). Otherwise you will spend $$ on jetting the bike and then re-spend when you buy the FCR's so realistically you will be saving money by buying the FCR's in the first place and then you will be done with them. >:)
He's not wrong. You'll eventually spend half the value of the bike on a pair of carbs so you might as well rip that band-aid off quickly. You'll do it again buying a pair of used forged aluminum wheels, and that's a pain you'll feel for much longer. In both cases it's money invested and you'll recoup close to 100% of it if you part with the bike and sell them off to another enthusiast.

Also, I think you mentioned missing a cross brace across the front of the fairings. Part number 27 in this diagram, 4841011A. You don't need it, don't worry about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Awesome info as always.

So on those 2 hoses that go into the "still air" I'll just make sure those are out of airflow and they'll be ok. They have what looks like a little "filter" on one end, I'll find out what those are and make sure they are tucked away nice and neat.

Funny you mention FCRs....there is a used set in Japan on Ebay that seem "affordable" at least v.s. the new kits I'm finding on the bay. BUHAHAHAH, no....damn ya'll.....I'm not gonna do that....i think. I think i am not going to get FCRs right now. Yes, 100% I think I am not maybe going to get them!

So I started taking a look at the carbs this morning, honestly i'm not sure what I'm really looking at. I've only done a bottom end kit on some Suzuki carbs from a 79 GS750, they were not this diaphragm type.

Float bowl screws are different on one side than the other, I don't mind this, it made getting the throttle cable bracket off the carb a bit easier actually.

You'll notice in the view down the carbs on the "slide" side, that one slide door is up. Of course I wanted to spin and press things so that's what I did.

One carb has a very nice, and quite obvious "pneumatic" feel to that slide, up and down, smooth as silk. The other one, not so smooth, so much so that it can become stuck at the top. I took the caps off the carbs, the one that slid nice had a pretty round diaphragm. The one that was acting up the diaphragm looked twisted down into the carb, as if you twisted the tip of an inverted cone making a little spiral. It was just a bit of a twist, but I don't think that was right.

Anyways,I tried to carefully PEEL it off the carb as it was kinda gunked up on one side.

I'm going to take that carb apart first, since it's already messed up, and with this forums help rebuild it. I have some nice rebuild kits, which have the parts to replace that part that "ovals out" I'm told. I hope I can get the diaphragm off without damaging it, i wouldnt' think they are held on with any adhesive, so the gunk holding it on must in fact be gunk.

Pshew...there are a lot of "dangling wires and hoses" on the bike now, HAHAHAHAAHHA. Gonna be REAL fun getting them back on.

And as for exhausts, yes as I started searching for options this weekend I did not find much. I certainly did not find much that was affordable and in good condition. I don't NEED a new exhaust setup, but if the end goal is a mono with carbon high pipes, I guess if I find a good deal i'll have to bite!
 

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So on those 2 hoses that go into the "still air" I'll just make sure those are out of airflow and they'll be ok. They have what looks like a little "filter" on one end, I'll find out what those are and make sure they are tucked away nice and neat.
Those are really just screens and not really filters, unless you're attempting to "filter" small children and frogs, and the latter only if it has claws. You should be able to blow through them with no resistance.
 

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You should spend a few bucks for some reinforced line that won’t kink when bent and a couple of cheap fuel filters instead of the little screen cans that plug easily. Air has to transfer easily through those lines or the diaphragms won’t work properly. Wash the diaphragms only in soap and water . Replace the o ring under each cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You should spend a few bucks for some reinforced line that won’t kink when bent and a couple of cheap fuel filters instead of the little screen cans that plug easily. Air has to transfer easily through those lines or the diaphragms won’t work properly. Wash the diaphragms only in soap and water . Replace the o ring under each cap.
Good tip on the reinforced line. I guess all line, unless we're talking submersible, is mostly the same an adequate for moto applications if bought at moto stores?
 

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If I am reading correctly the carb diaphragm was twisted?

If so this is not normal and may be due to a chemical attacking the rubber (softening it) or the diaphragm was not installed properly and you should inspect for tears/holes /damage. Usually they are very reliable as in I do not believe I have replaced 2 in over 20 years of working on these carbs. What does happen in CV carbs but the Mikuni's have been 1000 times better than the diaphragms in the keihin CV carbs where I do find them often as you described.

If the diaphragms have a sealer around the sealing edge then someone was struggling to get the diaphragms held in place and seated. There should not be any reason to use a sealer on the diaphragms. There is not usually any corrosion in this area of the carbs so I am betting it was sealer.

Look at the needles inside as the Dynojet kits re-use the stock float bowl screw as one of your carbs have. Factory uses silver allen head float bowl screws like the other carb has. Take some photos of the needles as you may have a jet kit already inside. It is NOT uncommon to have a carby ducati with a jet kit but stock exhaust we did that all the time, and plenty of people put stock exhausts on when selling a bike to make more money on the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Good notes, there for sure is some goo on either the leading or trialing edge, I'll make a note of what type of screws are holding on the float bowls as well. I'm gonna tear into them this weekend, with the help of Ducati.ms threads so wish me luck.

i have 2 "good" rebuild kits, with the tube that ovals out, and all that...the PO told me. So I hope it will all go well. I'll be super careful with the diaphragms, i'd rather not have to get new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Got into the carbs a bit, there is for sure gunk on one of the diaphragms. I carefully got it peeled away with warm water on fingers and lots of delicate fingers. I cleaned the surfaces with a brush and carb cleaner, and put'r all back together and now that side works exactly the same as the other side without hanging, and same pneumatic feeling.

i also took the float bowls off to take a gander and I found some kick ass particles in them, of course. You can see it in the bottom of my sink. As if it wasn't obvious on a bike sitting for 10 years, the carbs need going through! WHAT A REVELATION!

So I dug into the parts box with my carb kits and also found a Jet kit. I have no way of really knowing if what's inside is new, or old. I don't know enough about these things to look at a microscopic piece of brass and say "OH #40" or whatever :)

But I also have 2 rebuild kits, that look to have everything you'd want. Since the bike is going to remain stock'ish.....I'm at sea level. I think the airbox has been hacked open, but I don't have pods, and some day there will be slip ons. I think I'll just go with the rebuild kits as is, and tune from there.

If anyone has a better idea, let me know. Or if you see something strange, please let me know I want to set everything right!
 

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remove the "inexpensively" from your title and move forward without delusion i say.
Great one Belter! Ha ha ha ha , how the eff did I miss the obvious? Frigging funny man
 
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