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Should be 13.2 v across terminals and I tore one of my bikes down last year like you are doing but worse only to find the battery @ 12.8- 13.0 was still shit and was the issue all along. I kept telling myself it couldn’t be the battery, yet it was. In my case the ecu and display was going nuts and no cranking at all. Buy a battery.
 

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As I have said before --do a load test on the battery this will tell all--If you dont have a load tester go to your local motorcycle shop or even an auto parts store with your battery -they all have them and it will take all of 15 seconds to do the test and then you will know
 

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As I have said before --do a load test on the battery this will tell all--If you dont have a load tester go to your local motorcycle shop or even an auto parts store with your battery -they all have them and it will take all of 15 seconds to do the test and then you will know

This should be your starting point...

It can show 12.6v static with a meter but under load could drop to anything depending on how many cells are stuffed, usually it will crank with one stuffed but if you're getting nothing, load test it, and likely buy a new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I just did a multimeter load test but I get nothing as there isn't any draw from the system. I did confirm that ground seems to be ok, I pulled off the "little white box" and cleaned all it's prongs. I tested juice from battery to Starter Solonoid thing, so that wire is good. I also uncovered ANOTHER unattached negative that exists under the filthy regulator.

Right now I'm just filling my brain with wiring harness thoughts. I don't see where any positive juice comes OUT of the starter solonoid to the rest of the bike. I just have one positive lead, and a litany of stupid negative leads scattered all over. Someone has mentioned a "Y" connector coming off the positive battery, I wonder if I threw that away thinking it was part of some battery tender system, you can see it in post #156


I also stuck, where I could, my little light bulb tester into various connectors, like to the fuel pump, and there is no juice getting there. I swear, something is simply not attached somwhere. I've never seen a battery SO dead, not even a PEEP comes from the object (car or bike) when it's attached....my little bulb tester is bright like a little sun.

I guess I'll buy the same sulfuric acid container as stock? Or are we upgrading to at least a GEL in 2019 (soon to be 2020)
 

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That's not a load test, if you connect your meter and hit the start button and see a voltage drop (likely to be significant) that's a load test, if you see no drop at all and no cranking then the solenoid isn't getting a signal to close.

The negative/ground cables shouldn't present much of an issue with testing the circuit to get it going, if you have the battery grounded and the engine grounded as long as the positives are correct you will have enough of a circuit to at least get it cranking.
Some will use a negative to provide an extra ground for the reg/rec body as they were VERY prone to failure in that era, not sure where the others go but if you have a manual it should guide you.

The solenoid plug (the white one) even though it's clean you should see the two terminals on the plug are hollow and designed to go over the two solid terminals on the solenoid, they need to be tight enough to have good conductivity, if they're loose you won't energise the coil in the solenoid so it needs to be a tight interference fit to work.

Good luck.
Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
And just to keep everyone updated, thanks so much for talking me through this by the way. I've taken the general relay off, and using a battery from my kick ass power drill, I can tell that it's clicking through. However, I got NO voltage at "Terminal 85" where the Relay plugs in, and I got NO voltage at the 30Amp main fuse. I'd be shocked if the wiring from the Relay is botched, it's super strong, clean, goes into a bug hefty part of the harness behind the headlight. Same goes for the fuse wiring going into the fuse block.

So the relay at least "works ish" i can hear it click here. So I'll go plug it in.

My ignition key, is sticky as hell BTW...................................and now I'm remembering I did take the top tripple off to get the clip ons on and I wonder if it's not even f'n plugged back in!
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Hmm, yeah I mean I did have the load meter on battery in bike and ignition on and clicking and trying everything and it's dead. Ignition junction looks as fine as well, super clean white connector.

Good info on the ground, and yes I have now a couple grounds going and as you and myself have said....I feel I should be filling my wires with SOMETHING, assuming the ignition will allow it. I sprayed some electrical cleaner down into the barrel of the ignition and it all started clicking around with factory new ease...so I guess I'll assume the hardware in the barrel is ok.

So I'm getting great response from the bolt on the left, which makes sense since it's directly off the battery. I'm assuming the white plug returns positive elec' back to the system for all the rest of the electronics. And that output is dependent on the ignition switch? This is all pretty new to me. So I'm just trying, as of now, why none of the power from my battery is going anywhere past the bolt here, on the left......hurmpht

977570
 

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Did you load test the battery with a load tester??? If Not Do that before you spend hours & hours screwing with other electrical bits---You have to know that the battery is good FIRST---and you cannot do a load test with your voltmeter--with a voltmeter the battery may show 13. + volts it can do that with a bad cell or 2 , but when you put a load on-- it does not have the power to pull a greased string out of a cats ass---You have to know that health of the Battery
 

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Discussion Starter #190
This is the wiring diagram im using from Haynes. I am not an expert in it, but I think i've established Positve and Negative off the battery, into the Starter Relay works, and indeed, I even have a white plug kicking out further activity even though I confess to not really get where that stuff goes, looks like the starter switch and ending at the fuel pump or something. But what I don't see, is the area I've circled in blue.

Gonna get a new batt', I can get one in the same time it will take me to get a tester and stuff, I don't own a car so most places are closed by the time the wife is home or I wait until the weekend. So that's why I gotta keep on trying some things in the meantime. As soon as I can get to a home depot, and that could be tomorrow. I don't ride in the rain for trivial reasons, living in LA, that's a stay at home work day :)...but I see a load tester there.

977571
 

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It's been ages since i've had an SS, i think the 30A fuse carrier is on the side of the battery box under the tank? could be wrong, and if it's been chopped up for any reason it may not be where it should be.....

Have you traced the wiring from the Reg/Rec to see where it goes? looks obvious that the main pos which is also the largest will run to the battery via that 30A fuse carrier, if you don't see that, what do you see?
 

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The red with the blue trace is the signal from the starter switch, it excites the coil in the solenoid closing the circuit for the main (red) that then feeds power (the large black) to the starter. the small black is the ground for that white plug.

you can check continuity of the starter switch signal wire to the white plug but really, unless your loom is complete you're putting the cart before the horse, the SS is cared so the wiring is very basic, although, if some monkey has been messing with it and you're trying to fix it it can get confusing, you need to establish if the loom is complete.
It will likely be two seperate looms, there's a lights/gauges loom and there's an engine loom that runs the starter, coils, reg/rec, and the like, the left switch block is part of the lights and gauges portion and the RHS switch block with the starter and kill switch is part of the engine loom. there will be earths for both.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Thanks a lot for the info on the "2 looms". The bike has been engine out, so for sure, the loom is not factory perfect in every way that it's put. If it were easy, I'd remove the entire bitch and do it from scratch just so I know. But I can't do that, no way in hell. So I'll get that battery checked tomorrow I hope, then start debugging, starting with the engine loom.

How best to like..............see the "engine loom" and then kinda mark off "ok cool, there is the switch for yada, and indeed, I see it here, red white, connector is good, BAM, happy. I guess by the wiring diagram, the Haynes one doesn't have a key, so kinda lost on what one of the "black dots' is in the loom, where say the positive off the battery splits at a black dot..is that a connector....a solder job in the wiring..... etc.

It did go bad while sitting completely still and moving for 10 months. The Airbox however, was pulled on and off numerous times, each time of course pulling at various connectors and such.
 

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Wiring isn't as daunting as it looks, you just need to be methodical with it and it's easy.

I'd copy the wiring diagram onto throw away paper so you can make notes etc.

Break it down into components, start with something you know, like the reg/rec, then trace the wires back to where they should go according to the wiring diagram, you may not be able to visually check each one every inch but if it's connected as the diagram says at both ends you're halfway there.

Once you do a visual on all the wires on each component cross them off on the loom drawing, you can start at either end, and then put a line through the switch block when you check them etc.
If there's a tee off in the diagram you will find it in the loom, no biggie, follow both and confirm that they end where they're supposed to.

That way you can confirm everything is there and complete, if there's any big gaps or bits missing (eg your 30A fuse block maybe) then you know to add it before going further. I'd be surprised if anything is missing, i reckon when you trace the loom and understand where the wiring goes from end to end you will find it falls into place, often the wiring is already shaped ready to fall into place once you get an understanding of how it lays in the bike, assuming it's all come out or not in place properly now.

It's tedious work but necessary if you think you're missing parts or have gremlins, if the loom is complete, and you have a battery that is confirmed good and you STILL have issues you should then check continuity, but that's another story.....
 

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I think that fuse you have circled is the fusible link --Ducati calls it a fuse--If that is the fusible link it is mounted on the starboard side of the ft fairing support under the starboard fairing panel--right around where the ft turn signal is--It's a black plastic box-
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Ok so I got a load tester, battery is over 12 volts, almost 13. Under the load test, we fell into the low 9s, which is labeled as WEAK. So new battery on the way for sure, BUT......is this enough to get SOME response out of the electrical system. I'm getting zero response from anything when I turn on the ignition, no clicks, no whimpering dashlights.....nada

IN other news, I made the best kind of purchase today, an impulse purchase. I have this mod listed as Phase 3, meaning, money spent on Phase 3 is only counted in Phase 3 and we're still in PHASE 1. I AM A FINANCIAL GENIUS! But regardless, between this and rear brake titanium bolts, I should be able to do some mechanical stuff in between being beaten down by electronics.
 

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Hate to be "Captain Obvious" here, but you did check all the fuses, right? And that they were all properly seated, no corrosion blah blah blah?
Don't remember reading on this thread if you did that.

Captain Obvious
 
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