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Does anyone know the nut size and thread type for the nut underneath the tank that has the fuel sensor in it? It's the standard steel tank, I believe. I'm asking because I need to figure out some sort of cap/plug to close off the tank for de-rusting & coating it (I have the Kreem kit, but from reading other threads, it's quite a debate as to which treatment works best).

I'm sure other people have had to cap this off for the same reason...what have you used?

ps: in case anyone stumbles on this thread with this problem, I just couldn't get that nut to stop leaking, even after cleaning the threads and installing a new little green o-ring. Wrapped the male threads with Teflon plumber's tape and voila, no leaks. Hope that helps someone...
 

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For plugging it up, go to a hardware store and get a tapered cork stopper. Be careful of the acid bath when you're using the Kreem system, it ate up my fuel outlet nipple in the short time it was exposed to it. Since then I've been using Redkote, the same compound used by radiator shops. No acid bath needed to remove rust, just a thorough cleaning. As long as you have the tank off, you might want to have the hinge brazed before you coat the tank as insurance against future leaks.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For plugging it up, go to a hardware store and get a tapered cork stopper. Be careful of the acid bath when you're using the Kreem system, it ate up my fuel outlet nipple in the short time it was exposed to it. Since then I've been using Redkote, the same compound used by radiator shops. No acid bath needed to remove rust, just a thorough cleaning. As long as you have the tank off, you might want to have the hinge brazed before you coat the tank as insurance against future leaks.

George
Great idea on the cork stopper. I have in mind one of those rubber ones similar to a bathtub plug...is that what you mean?

Do you happen to know if the fuel outlet nipple is removable if I go ahead with the Kreem this time? And if I do the Redkote instead, what do you do for the "thorough cleaning"? Sorry if this is ignorant - I've never had to clean/seal a tank, thankfully.

And last, nothing is leaking yet; I just see some spot rust forming on the lower tank rim and some accumulation in the new fuel filter (aka in the tank). So the hinge brazing you mentioned, did you mean the tank hinge underneath? Thanks for your replies in both my threads. I really appreciate the thought put into helping a relative newb.
 

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A cork or rubber stopper like the ones used in bottles will do. I've seen them in a wide selection of sizes in Home Depot. I use rubber ones in all the openings when I coat or paint a tank. The fuel nipple unscrews off. Don't lose the copper washer that allows it to seal. Throw a stopper in there too.
The tank hinge area is a weak spot for the old Monster tanks. If you coat the tank and the welds crack afterwards, the heat from the brazing will eat up the coating and it will start peeling off and clogging up your fuel filter. A good welder can re-enforce the area without boogering up your paint too much, and because you can't see the area that's been welded, you can just touch up the spot with paint to keep it from rusting. Make sure the tank is filled with water when it's welded. It helps dissipate the heat and displaces any residual gas fumes.
I use the Purple bio-degradeable degreaser you can get at WalMart to clean the tank.
Here's a link for the Redkote instructions.
http://www.damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf
Last time I bought a quart, it wasn't sold to the public, but there was someone on E-Bay that was selling it, just do a search there.
Not affiliated with them I just think they make a good product.

George
 
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