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Discussion Starter #1
My RR died at the end of last year and took my battery with it. I installed this RR after the OEM part failed back in 97". Wires and connector melted. I also upgraded the stator wires and connectors at that time.

I figured that since my bike is 20 years old, I'd start upgrading a few things. I ordered a new Stater and RR from Elctrosport in the US and Put in a new battery. Changed the fuel filter. Everything arrived in early May, assembled without a problem and then the issue started.



Went out for a test ride and when I returned, the battery was down to 11.4V. Double checked everything couldn't find anything wrong. Called Kyle at electrosport, sent the RR back. The part was confirmed to be faulty and a new one was sent to me under warranty.

A few weeks later, I received the 2nd RR and installed it. Went out for an hour ride and when I came back, noticed that the battery had run down. Same as last time. This time I did a little more investigating.

My stator puts out 14v at 1200rpm idle. (this is the new one from Electrosport)
It outputs 100v at 6000 rpm.
New battery fully charged, sits at 12.6 V
The battery on it's own, not connected to the RR, drops to 11.94v with the bike running at idle.
When I blip the throttle, the voltage only goes up 0.02V. Kyle says I should be seeing 14V.
I've sent photo's showing how the RR was hooked up and Kyle could not see anything wrong.

At this point, Kyle sends me a 3rd RR. (he didn't even request the second one back)

I picked it up from the post office this afternoon and installed it.

Here's what I found today
Battery was at 12.6V. Has been sitting in garage for last two weeks untouched.
Started bike, battery was at 12.2V at idle and starts dropping 0.1V roughly every 30sec. Bike idles at 1200 rpm.
Blip the throttle (3-4K) and the voltage only goes up 0.02V
I then let the bike idle until the voltage dropped to 11.9V
Revved the bike to 6,000RPM and the voltage went up to 12V. I did this a couple of times. Held it for roughly 5 seconds. It wouldn’t go up higher.
Almost red lined the engine and I still would not get anything over 12V

At this point, I tend to think there's an inherent issue with the RR supplied by Electrosport. It seems to be providing some voltage but, not enough to charge the battery.

Kyle's been good to deal with so, if there's a possibility that there's something on the bike that could be keeping the RR from working properly, I really want to find it.

What could cause the RR not to work properly? How do I check?

I'm looking for input from the electrical guru's out there. At this rate, I'm not going to get in any riding this summer.
 

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Matt
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Paging Shazaam to aisle 916....
 

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Old Wizard
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Stator output looks OK. Check that you haven't blown the 30 amp regulator fuse located at the side of the battery.
 

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check/clean the grounds too, being a contractor i put anti-oxidant paste (NOALOX ANTI-OXIDANT) on all (neg./positive) the connections. works really well
 

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how did you connect the stator to the rr - soldered then shrink tubing?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Used double end automotive crimp connector with heat shrink.
I know the connection was good because I had to cut them off. Couldn't pull it apart grabbing it with vice grips on both ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
additional note:

Upgraded the wires to 10ga from the stator with the first replaced RR years ago.
Did the same with the new stator from Electrosport.
Soldered 10ga wire to the RR yellow wires so that I could easily join RR wires to Stator wires using the same type of connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The RR died at the end of last season taking the battery along with it.
In may, I purchased a new battery and RR from Electrosport. I figured that since I was at it, I'd also replace the Stator with a new one from Electrosport.

Put everything together, not difficult, done it before. Go out for an hour ride and find that the battery is run down. Check voltage at the battery and find that there's no charge coming from the RR. Send the RR back to Electrosport under warranty. They confirm it's faulty and send me a replacement. Pop the second one in and it doesn't work. Electrosport than sends me a third RR, it behaves the same as the second. The RR barely holds the battery at 12V and will not go higher regardless of how much I rev the bike. Electrosport checked the 3rd rr before sending and confirmed that it provided 14V.

I'm now returning the 3rd RR back to Electrosport for a refund and will try to find one from another supplier.

I just don't want to find out that there's something on the bike that's preventing the RR to work properly. Here's the history of what I've checked
 

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3,885 Posts
Try a newer 3 phase RR from a DUC. I installed one on a 'Guzzi with a 350W, single-phase stator - just like UR 916. It works great. And they're cheap, used. About $40 or less.

My old RR in the 2002 Lemans was "soft", providing only 12.3V at the battery. The "spare" RR that I carried on my ST2, and never needed, ended up going onto the Lemans, and now it's 14.5VDC when above idle.

Just use 2 of the 3 yellow wires on the 3-phase RR, and tape off the one you don't use.

The only thing you lose is the alternator light. The newer RR's don't have wires for that light.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
agree, no prob. using a 848/1098 etc.
It's that easy? There must be a downside to the swap.

That being said, I'm in. Any specific recommendation for which one to look for or is it literally just any 848/1098.

Time to order.
 

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Any newer DUC. Monsters, SF's, SBK's. They're all 520W 3phase rated. But I'm talking "cut + splice" the new one in. It's not going to plug right in.

Like I said, I did it on the Lemans, and it's working GREAT. No warm/hot connections, either! (Connectors are not supposed to get hot...)


Oh, and since it's a 916, you'd be wise to get it out of the hot area. Ducati placed that beast in the WORST place--inside the fairing, right next to a screaming hot head pipe. Wow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Any newer DUC. Monsters, SF's, SBK's. They're all 520W 3phase rated. But I'm talking "cut + splice" the new one in. It's not going to plug right in.

Like I said, I did it on the Lemans, and it's working GREAT. No warm/hot connections, either! (Connectors are not supposed to get hot...)


Oh, and since it's a 916, you'd be wise to get it out of the hot area. Ducati placed that beast in the WORST place--inside the fairing, right next to a screaming hot head pipe. Wow.


No problem with "Cut & Splice".
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
OK, got one off of e-bay, 99' 1098. has two +, two - wires coming out of it. I joined both + and both -. Should I only use one? Does it make a difference?
 

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OK, got one off of e-bay, 99' 1098. has two +, two - wires coming out of it. I joined both + and both -. Should I only use one? Does it make a difference?
That's the right way to do it. Not sure what the '95 harness looks like, but the later bikes have a 4 terminal plug for the DC. 2 pos and 2 neg out of the VRR that join the same arrangement on the harness side. Electrically they are the same. In fact, many will bypass the bike's harness with a VRR upgrade and run the DC out directly to the battery, maintaining the same harness / power terminals also at the battery, if they feel OEM harness is a problem.

Here's what I did when upgrading to a MOSFET VRR on the ST4s. I did the same thing to the 916, but I don't have a pic. I used 10GA wire for the DC connection between the VRR and the bike's harness. I used the old plug off the bad VRR and spliced in the 2 pos and 2 neg wires using a crimp and heat shrink butt connector (also using a proper crimp tool). The plug is to the right of the new VRR and you can make out how it is connected. No issues at all with this. Steady 14.1VDC to the bike and battery. The MOSFET VRR runs cooler and so far has been completely reliable on both bikes. There is no reason to not use one of these. Both of my MOSFET VRRs are purchased off eBay sourced from a Yamaha R1 and were around $40.00. I bought the connector kits new and used wire on hand. Easy stuff. I can't see going back to the older diode VRRs except for keeping the bike original.

 
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