Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I need to replace my RR on a '95 916. Years ago I upgraded the stator wires to 10g so the stock connectors are long gone. I'm planning on soldering the stator wires directly to the RR wires and doing the heat shrink thing. I am replacing an Electrosport RR that runs positive and negative leads directly to the battery. This was connected via crimped, cobbled connectors and only lasted 2 years. Hoping soldering will be better. Anyway, my immediate question is whether there is any consensus on choosing between RR brands, Electrosport, Enduralast, or OEM (ungraded supposedly from original)? My skills are pretty damn limited as far as fabricating brackets and such, so I am trying to stay literally in bolt on territory. I've read about MOSFET for Yamahas and such but assume they would take more to adapt than I am willing or able to do without raising my blood pressure to dangerous levels. I've also read a bit about putting on 3-phase Ducati RRs but have no idea whether they would mount the same way etc.
So any opinions of brands (including any I haven't mentioned) given what I am after?
Many thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Look for the FH020A R/R. It was used on 09-14 Yamaha R1s. Installed one on my 888 and my 996/1098 and have had solid charging since
 

·
Registered
1994 900SS CR, 2002 998 Trackbike
Joined
·
304 Posts
Wiring is the same no matter if SCR or MOSFET R/R.

Get yourself an FH020 or similar. A good place to get them is roadstercycle.com - you can find the pieces cheaper if you shop around, but this guy has convenient kits with different connector harnesses available as a one stop shop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: paulmm600

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for these tips guys. And do they bolt up in the stock location without modification? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
I did mine this weekend with an FH020 from Jack @ RoadsterCycle.

My 97 already had a Shindengen 673 on it from a recall Ducati did way back so it appears I'd already lost the battery warning light but I plan to trace the wires. The replacement was on an aluminum bracket that I straightened a little and drilled new holes to mount the new RR. I chose to set it up so the fins would get what little airflow there is and the connectors are at the top. I went into the existing loom for +ve from the RR and a new -ve to the battery.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: James

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Pic helps a lot, thanks! As I mentioned, I'm pretty marginal in this area so bear with my ignorance please. When you say you went into the existing loom, where exactly did you go and what exactly did you do? Did the kit not include a +ve to run to the battery (my current setup does).
And when you ran the new -ve to battery, was this lead supplied or did you splice it in somehow?
How did you connect the stator wires to RR? Solder or did kit include connectors? My stator wires are 10g so I am wondering if soldier is only option.
Finally, in my current setup with an Electrosport, the back side of the mounting plate has what I assume is a heat sink (see pic) - that would not be used for the FH020 setup right? (Actually now that I look more closely it looks like that backing heat sink plate is all one piece with the mounting plate) - So instead, let me ask, did the mounting plate in your pic come with the kit or did you fab that?
Many thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
https://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hal...re-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems.html

Here is a great thread to read over. Also, not sure of your connector situation but this triumph pig tail harness will plug directly into the yellow wire plug with the other end connecting to the R/R. The other plug will fit the connector from the wiring harness (+) and (-) and plug into the R/R. I used this harness on my 996/1098 and it made things easy. On my 888, I wired it to the battery with an in-line fuse for the (+).

T2500676 Triumph Link Lead, Regulator $9.48 - 2WheelPros
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
Pic helps a lot, thanks! As I mentioned, I'm pretty marginal in this area so bear with my ignorance please. When you say you went into the existing loom, where exactly did you go and what exactly did you do? Did the kit not include a +ve to run to the battery (my current setup does).
Like I'm a pro ;-)

My bike had a replacement RR on it already, the +ve from that went into a wire that runs up the frame to the rear of the bike, I just replaced that with the wire from the new RR. The kit from Jack recommended straight to the battery but I always figured I'd go into the existing loom which also allowed me to just use the existing 30A fuse rather than wire a new one.

And when you ran the new -ve to battery, was this lead supplied or did you splice it in somehow?
New wire in the kit, I crimped on one of the supplied battery connectors and went straight to -ve, replacing the existing wire from the old RR (usually 2 black wires).

How did you connect the stator wires to RR? Solder or did kit include connectors? My stator wires are 10g so I am wondering if soldier is only option.
The kit has crimped and heat shrink connectors, I used those. I do have some Multipack 280 connectors around that are rated at 30A, the same as the stator but too much more soldering for me.

Finally, in my current setup with an Electrosport, the back side of the mounting plate has what I assume is a heat sink (see pic) - that would not be used for the FH020 setup right? (Actually now that I look more closely it looks like that backing heat sink plate is all one piece with the mounting plate) - So instead, let me ask, did the mounting plate in your pic come with the kit or did you fab that?
The aluminium plate you can see in my photo was already there and was part of the original replacement RR, I just drilled new holes. Otherwise I would have sniffed around Home Despot for something to use, I don't think it needs to be anywhere near as sturdy as what I have.

I bought the complete Mosfet kit from Jack at RoadsterCycle.com. My original stator wires melted themselves at the connectors a few years back and I had soldered them, if they were still ok I'd have done the Triumph connector that @jsedacca mentions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
417 Posts
Pic helps a lot, thanks! As I mentioned, I'm pretty marginal in this area so bear with my ignorance please. When you say you went into the existing loom, where exactly did you go and what exactly did you do? Did the kit not include a +ve to run to the battery (my current setup does).
Quick additional: I recommended finding a wiring diagram if you don't have one, it helps to work out the original wiring, what you have now and what you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again, guys. I don't have any connectors left (just 2 10g wires from the stator), so I don't think I can use the Triumph set-up. But I am sold on the Mosfet route even though it means losing the generator light. I am in contact with Jack at RoadsterCycle.com. He said he can set me up with 10g connectors to his RR so hopefully that will minimize the need to use my questionable soldering skills. Not sure yet about a mounting plate as his RR spacing is much narrower than stock mounting plate spacing. He's away from his shop right now so I am on hold but at least I have a plan thanks to you guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is that your stock mounting bracket? Mine is completely different and has heat-sink like finning on the back side (see pic).
Re the replacement warning light, years ago after almost being left stranded by a fried RR, I started running a voltmeter off the battery that gives me a continuous display - it's given me a good heads up when things weren't right a couple times now. I do keep the bike on a battery tender though because it draws from the battery continuously. Thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
okay, thanks much for the pic. Very different from '95. Helps a lot to see it and know what I'm after!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Could anyone who mounted the Mofset using the 996 era mounting bracket (several pictured previously) do me a great favor and tell me the approx. width and height of the bracket? (I realize a bend in the bracket that was probably a shelf has to be straightened.) Also, is the bend just below the bracket mounting holes (see pic above) actually needed/funnctional or would a simple rectangular piece of metal work? Thanks for any help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
322 Posts
Could anyone who mounted the Mofset using the 996 era mounting bracket (several pictured previously) do me a great favor and tell me the approx. width and height of the bracket? (I realize a bend in the bracket that was probably a shelf has to be straightened.) Also, is the bend just below the bracket mounting holes (see pic above) actually needed/funnctional or would a simple rectangular piece of metal work? Thanks for any help.
It sounds like you are over-thinking this. Its just a bracket that will hold a part that weighs less than a pound.

If you dont have one on your bike now, just bend a piece of sheet aluminum, and drill the mounting holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
think the most "critical" part of the bracket is to mount with some sort of rubber mounting as the org. to reduce vibs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Interesting 2004 999s...at the risk of overthinking again, something like rubber washers between the R/R and bracket? I also noticed in the pic of your setup you didn't attach the ground wire to the R/R like the stock unit does, at least on a 916. Curious why you didn't. Thanks.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top