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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's possible I'm being overly concerned as I have never broken in a motor before, but I am sure noticing a lot of stumbling and hesitation under moderate acceleration around 4 - 5k. A few times the bike even backfired. I know that I have experienced this on the 821 and after mentioning it to the dealer they did something and it improved. Maybe this is also normal when breaking in an engine? With a little more throttle the bikes pulls fine right to 5,500, it's only when I am babying it or trying to hold a steady throttle at 4 - 5k that I notice this.

I've been good not to lug the motor, maybe overly so as I've been slipping the clutch more than I usually would when taking off, and, aside from crossing the 6k threshold during a few quick shifts (not while under load) I've kept it below 6k so I think I've done everything right. I'd never expect a Ducati to run smooth while cruising but this level of stumbling is concerning.
 

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2016 Ducati Hypermotard 939 SP
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Funny that I found your post because I was literally just trying to search causes of the same symptoms since I finally got my first ride on my 16 SP. I have stuttering throughout most of the rev range, and rpm's move even when idling, which makes me feel that the issue may be mapping, rather than a chain outside of the recommended spec as I initially thought. I'll keep an eye on this thread and I'll update if I find anything myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Funny that I found your post because I was literally just trying to search causes of the same symptoms since I finally got my first ride on my 16 SP. I have stuttering throughout most of the rev range, and rpm's move even when idling, which makes me feel that the issue may be mapping, rather than a chain outside of the recommended spec as I initially thought. I'll keep an eye on this thread and I'll update if I find anything myself.
I'm reasonably sure it's mapping, these seem to be more pronounced version of behavior I'd gotten used to on my 821. I suspect I'm just worrying too much because I've never broken in a new engine before and I tend to be a hypochondriac about my machines. Given that the bike settles right down and pulls like a champ when I twist the throttle I doubt it is an issue with the engine mechanics.
 

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2016 Ducati Hypermotard 939 SP
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Mine responds the same way once I twist the throttle, but the lower speeds where I need or want the throttle input the same is where the issues are for me. I initially suspected it was the exhaust flapper and motor, but then it hit me that mine is eliminated since I have a full system, so it can't be that. And with the system, I have the up-map which should adjust for the exhaust with the tune. Thus, I feel there may be something else if we both have the same style of issue presenting itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Huh, how many miles do you have on yours? I've just gotten to 200. I did my best to have the first 50 or so be highly varied, but I need to use a little highway to get to useful roads. I'm wondering if some of this is just break-in related and will go away once everything if fully seated.
 

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2016 Ducati Hypermotard 939 SP
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I'm at 7,600 kms or 4,700 miles. I'm going to double check my chain and see if that's the cause. I doubt yours with as low mileage as you have would already be too slack though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More I read about this, it sounds like Euro4 is to blame. Lean fueling making things run bad. I am told that reports are most Euro4 bikes struggle with power in the low end. I'll ask the dealer when I am in for service about this, but I'll most likely look to get a tune or map at some point.
 

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If the bike is stock, the simple guess is poor quality gasoline. Run a full tank of 91 Chevron. Does it also hesitate under power in wet mode? Check the settings for sport. I set engine to high not medium.

The 939 should hold steady 4k rpm in 5th gear at 70 mph in sport mode. I cruise around at a smooth 4k constantly. Sometimes paint chips will float around a new engine. Consider an oil change after running a fresh tank of gas to clean/check the filter screen. Castrol 4T is cheap and a safe hold over until the 600 mi service. Don't mod the exhaust until you are ready to remap the ECU. It could also be one bad spark plug. Troubleshoot working from simple to complex.
 

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My 2017 SP from 0 miles to 700 was totally stock and had flat spots and dead zones through-out the powerband.
I went with the full race titanium exhaust and ECU Re-Map and now the bike is a delightfully naughty beast at all throttle openings except really low RPM and in a higher gears. I wish I knew how the Dealer Diagnostic Computers worked -- not sure if they can load a more aggressive fuel map without the fugging "KEY/PASSWORD/CODE" if you don't want to spend 3 months salary on an exhaust system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Spoke with the dealer while dropping the old 821 'tard to get sorted before I sell it. They said some of this could be the bike still learning based on my riding it and fuel / air / temp conditions. If it hasn't gotten a little better by 1k or so they can try a few things but they can't legally change the map. I'll give it some time I guess. Worst case I go crazy with exhaust and a remap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If the bike is stock, the simple guess is poor quality gasoline. Run a full tank of 91 Chevron. Does it also hesitate under power in wet mode? Check the settings for sport. I set engine to high not medium.

The 939 should hold steady 4k rpm in 5th gear at 70 mph in sport mode. I cruise around at a smooth 4k constantly. Sometimes paint chips will float around a new engine. Consider an oil change after running a fresh tank of gas to clean/check the filter screen. Castrol 4T is cheap and a safe hold over until the 600 mi service. Don't mod the exhaust until you are ready to remap the ECU. It could also be one bad spark plug. Troubleshoot working from simple to complex.
All good points. It's on it's third fill up now (all from Chevron or otherwise trusted stations), seemed better by the end of my ride the other night but then things are much smoother at speed and the stumbling more noticeable in lower gears / slower speeds. I may change the oil this weekend time permitting as I'd prefer clean oil circulating for the remaining 300ish miles of the initial break-in anyway.
 

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Same problem after 18,000kms

Hey guys,

I have a 2016 939 and have exactly the same problem. Holding it at a steady 4000rpm it just stutters and pops constantly, really doesn't like it. Also when I have it in neutral, I can't rev past 4000rpm, try this, see if yours is the same. I'm sure something is wrong with these bikes. I've fitted a Racetech carbon slip on, Booster Plug to richen the mixture, and a servo delete to cancel the exhaust flap valve. Its still doing it and its driving me nuts. Been to two different dealers here and had my ECU remapped with the newest map, full diagnostics run twice, no faults of any sort. I love this bike, but I can t ride it the way it is, it just makes me furious, not the best blend. I have a carbon airbag on the way, and a K&N filter to fit, but I think its something deeper in the bike to be honest. But if we between us can find a solution, I'll be very very happy.
 

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Whi7e those are serious issues, which I suspect are from your mods. The dealer remap is not worth a damn, because you no longer have a stock exhaust system. Get a custom remap because too many variables have changed. When I researched how slip-ons interact with ECUs, I found an in-depth study on wave dynamics. The calculations to engineer an exhaust SYSTEM are astonishing. Installing a slip-on will cause performance issues over time. There are a bunch of posts on this forum about burning out O2 sensors, fueling problems, loss of economy, loss of power, etc. The Euro4 engines are too finely balanced. New exhaust = new ECU.

I have no rev problems. I transitioned from a Honda V4, so the twin took some rider adjustments, and all the surging was from my hands. I have to feather the clutch more than I've done on any bike and learn ride-by-wire. It takes a few seasons to intimately learn a new machine. When I was focusing on low RPM surging (during slow corners) it filled my world. I don't notice it anymore because I adjusted. Technique that was smooth on a Honda VFR does not work on a Hypermotard. There may still be minor intermittent surges, but it's normal and never unsettles the chassis. It will surge 100rpm at idle, and probably a little in cruise. It's a twin, they surge. Does it jerk my head back and forth? Never. Does it vibrate more than any other bike I've been on? No. My friend's FZ1 shakes so bad I can't see out the mirrors. What is normal and what is rider perception?

My Hyper is a 2016 939SP which was tracked prior to the 600 miles service and has 4k miles on it now. I wish I had more miles, but F'n Minnesota. The exhaust is stock and I have zero problems. The bike has been on its side twice, still zero problems. If anything, I am amazed by the power it produces. I am keeping the stock exhaust until I move back to California, because I don't want the headache of re-engineering a closed system.
 

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Hey guys,

I have a 2016 939 and have exactly the same problem. Holding it at a steady 4000rpm it just stutters and pops constantly, really doesn't like it. Also when I have it in neutral, I can't rev past 4000rpm, try this, see if yours is the same. I'm sure something is wrong with these bikes. I've fitted a Racetech carbon slip on, Booster Plug to richen the mixture, and a servo delete to cancel the exhaust flap valve.
I’m not deeply familiar with the 939, but is your ECU running an O2 sensor? If so, the booster plug won’t be doing anything in the closed loop section (usually the first 4-5000rpm) because the ECU will keep trying to remove whatever extra fuel you’re putting in. If it’s lean in the closed loop section of the map, then there’s nothing you can do without either (a) spoofing the O2 sensor or (b) deleting the O2 sensor from the ECU so it runs open loop for the whole map.

(This was a common problem with earlier models, as people tried to remap their ECUs to fix lean running but the closed loop kept undoing what they were trying to achieve at low-mid revs. The solution was to flash the ECU for the Termi ‘Race’ exhaust - no O2 sensor - and then remapping that.)
 

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Just to check back in to this thread for an update to my above mentioned stuttering issues, I bought a Rapid Bike Evo unit yesterday. I'll try to have it installed in the next couple of weeks when I get back from a work trip, and update the difference it makes. Fingers crossed it helps with the feel of the bike.
 

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I add a tiny amount of RXP to the gas to provide for better combustion. Proven for decades in cutting steel, this additive enhances the combustion. Works for me, maybe will work for you. Better combustion = Smoother engine.
 

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Finally got back from my work trip and finished the RapidBike install when I could get to it over a few days. I managed to go for the first ride with it on Sunday night, and I honestly can't believe the difference. I could sit in second at 4k rpm without the bike jerking and hesitating, and that was only within the first 50km. I only managed to get in about 100km, and just at that point it's so smooth through almost every part of the rev range. It was quite a bit of money, but I'm so happy I did it to actually enjoy the bike and its power. Recommended for anyone with the same stumble issues.
 

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Finally got back from my work trip and finished the RapidBike install when I could get to it over a few days. I managed to go for the first ride with it on Sunday night, and I honestly can't believe the difference. I could sit in second at 4k rpm without the bike jerking and hesitating, and that was only within the first 50km. I only managed to get in about 100km, and just at that point it's so smooth through almost every part of the rev range. It was quite a bit of money, but I'm so happy I did it to actually enjoy the bike and its power. Recommended for anyone with the same stumble issues.
That was my first thought when I installed mine. Wow... why did I wait so long to install this!?

Then I took it a step further by tuning it to the exact desired air-fuel ratios, and it got better yet again. Like a whole new bike.
 

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Mine did not stumble stock but it was a bit hesitant below 4K & that exhaust valve I think was a big part of that & drove me nuts. About 200 miles in I found a smoking deal on the full Termi kit with air box lid & Upmap. Installed that & wow! This is how the bike should run stock. Smooth everywhere & pulls much harder everywhere. Throttle transition is so smooth too. I run the bike in race mode with ABS set to 1 & TC off. Best $1500 ever??
 

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