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Discussion Starter #1
Who does their own brake fluid flush? I'm wondering because the dealer charges up the nose and watching YouTube videos it doesn't seem too different then simply bleeding the brakes. However, since the Hyper has ABS, does it make it any different/more complicated? If anyone has a tutorial that would be awesome!

Also, is it normal that my fluid turned brown only after 1000 miles after taking the bike off the showroom?
 

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To clear the abs system, pull the calipers off and push the pads full in. I have speed bleeders on, so I just crack them and the pads and pistons easily open. Put the calipers back on after coating the bolts in molybdenum grease - and then do the usual bleed. Not a big deal. Lots of info on the forum regarding torque settings and such. I find that leaving the master cylinder cover loose and zip tying the lever for a few hours, firms things up nicely.

For the rear, you have to pull the wheel, remove the caliper and raise it above the rear reservoir. Push the pads full open, put a shim thats about the thickness of the rotor, between the pads and push the foot pedal to clamp it on - then bleed.
 

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I swapped the fluid in mine to RBF660 almost immediately because it looked like Coca Cola right off the showroom floor. I didn't have any problems, however I've heard of people having issues.

Really depends how you mount the calipers during the bleeding.
 

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Why waste precious good weather days on unnecessary maintenance? The bike is new with a closed system that has not been severely heat cycled. Normal street riding takes years to break down DOT 4 fluid.
 

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It's possible to remove most of the the fluid in the Master with suction and just replace that if you know for sure what fluid is in use. The water in suspension will migrate to the less contaminated fluid on it's own over a few days until it all has the same water level again. You can repeat if you want to increase purity. Common track day preparation to increase boiling point.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree

Why waste precious good weather days on unnecessary maintenance? The bike is new with a closed system that has not been severely heat cycled. Normal street riding takes years to break down DOT 4 fluid.
I completely agree, on my last bikes I had to flush the fluid after thousands of miles but for some reason on the hyper, I only have 3000 miles and the fluid already looks like Coca-Cola as zibbit compared it :D

From what I know you're supposed to flush the fluid when it gets brown, that's the only reason I'm looking into it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To clear the abs system, pull the calipers off and push the pads full in. I have speed bleeders on, so I just crack them and the pads and pistons easily open. Put the calipers back on after coating the bolts in molybdenum grease - and then do the usual bleed. Not a big deal. Lots of info on the forum regarding torque settings and such. I find that leaving the master cylinder cover loose and zip tying the lever for a few hours, firms things up nicely.

For the rear, you have to pull the wheel, remove the caliper and raise it above the rear reservoir. Push the pads full open, put a shim thats about the thickness of the rotor, between the pads and push the foot pedal to clamp it on - then bleed.
That actually sounds a lot more complex than without ABS :\

It's possible to remove most of the the fluid in the Master with suction and just replace that if you know for sure what fluid is in use. The water in suspension will migrate to the less contaminated fluid on it's own over a few days until it all has the same water level again. You can repeat if you want to increase purity. Common track day preparation to increase boiling point.
That sounds like a good, easy trick. I guess I'll call the dealer and ask them what fluid they put in there. Thanks!
 

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That actually sounds a lot more complex than without ABS :\



That sounds like a good, easy trick. I guess I'll call the dealer and ask them what fluid they put in there. Thanks!
Instructions always sound more complex than action. 4 bolts squeeze - done. You can always just bleed regularly and probably do OK. Particularly if you bind the lever and tap the system a bit. Some of the issue isn't the ABS, but the seal on the MC. You asked - I answered.

The rear caliper removal is due to the location of the bleeder at the lowest point of the system. Nothing to do with ABS.
 
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