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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 916 with a bit of a problem. Runs fine sounds great but doesn't ride so well. I can slip the clutch excesively and ride around at what ever speed I want in what ever gear I want but the instent I release the clutch fully bike will start bucking and stall. Not like it's not getting and fuel but like something in the trans is locking up and releasing violently until rpms drop and the engine can't over come the locking up. But if I pull in the clutch it's smooth again. Looking to get pointed in the right direction. Thanks.
 

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I have a 97 916 with a bit of a problem. Runs fine sounds great but doesn't ride so well. I can slip the clutch excesively and ride around at what ever speed I want in what ever gear I want but the instent I release the clutch fully bike will start bucking and stall. Not like it's not getting and fuel but like something in the trans is locking up and releasing violently until rpms drop and the engine can't over come the locking up. But if I pull in the clutch it's smooth again. Looking to get pointed in the right direction. Thanks.


replace your spark plugs..2 total
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got a good deal for it was told it only needed a new slave. put on the new slave and then found out there was other issues. I pulled the clutch apart and some of the friction discs are toast and some of the plates have some slag on them. the basket is worn.
 

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I got a good deal for it was told it only needed a new slave. put on the new slave and then found out there was other issues. I pulled the clutch apart and some of the friction discs are toast and some of the plates have some slag on them. the basket is worn.
IMO: Until the clutch components are in good condition, I wouldn't go any further trying to fault the trans.
 

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Take the clutch plates out and push and pull on the clutch center.If you have in and out play or up and down movement you might have a bad bearing in the trans.Also check the clutch basket the same way.There really isn't anything in the clutch area that would cause the symptoms you describe except maybe the clutch center nut being loose but that would mostly cause the clutch to not disengage.And make a lot of noise.
 

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There really isn't anything in the clutch area that would cause the symptoms you describe except maybe the clutch center nut being loose but that would mostly cause the clutch to not disengage.And make a lot of noise.
If the clutch is slipping and grabbing (Slag on the Plates) it could cause some of the symptoms, (”but like something in the trans is locking up and releasing violently until rpms drop and the engine can't over come the locking up”) but does fine without completely engaging the clutch allowing it to slip constantly, if it was trans I would think regardless it would ALWAYS have those symptoms. But the stalling (unless it won’t completely disengage at a stop) -- not sure!!:confused:

I agree to look for the bearing play or loose basket nut, but doubt it would give those symptoms. IMO anyway. Can't say I really know.
 

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Maybe it's time for the good ole lithium-grease the friction plates.
Easy enough to perform and then rule out if thats not it.

Signs will be suuuuper short slipping distance and a bit of squeeling while trying to take off.

Cure is to buy lithium grease on a spray can, take all friction plates out, spray them all, then take cloth and whipe them as much as you can, the assemble again.

If that was the problem you now have a superslick clutch action again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My thoughts exactly but I don't want to buy the basket and plates if it's not the clutch. Just want a second oppinion. Could it be caused by the disc stack being to short. I have removed every clutch componet and inpected it and tightened everything back up when I put it back together. Could it be the Cush drive in the center hub. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure what you mean. What does greasing the plates accomplish. Not trying to be a smart ass just want to understand.
 

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I got a good deal for it was told it only needed a new slave. put on the new slave and then found out there was other issues. I pulled the clutch apart and some of the friction discs are toast and some of the plates have some slag on them. the basket is worn.
If the bike was ridden for awhile with a bad slave then the shift forks may be bent from forced shifts. Bent forks won't allow full engagement of the gear dogs so under heavy load it will jump in and out of gear. Does it do it in all gears? If so then it's probably not the shift forks. Did you check for chain and sprocket damage? Maybe the chain is slipping due to missing teeth.
 

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My thoughts exactly but I don't want to buy the basket and plates if it's not the clutch. Just want a second oppinion. Could it be caused by the disc stack being to short. I have removed every clutch componet and inpected it and tightened everything back up when I put it back together. Could it be the Cush drive in the center hub. Thanks for the help.
From your description, your clutch already sounds like its trash.
 

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Maybe you can clarify,Does it kill the engine at low speeds with the clutch fully engaged? Or is it a slip grab type feeling? Does it do it a few times or constantly?If it has a badly grooved basket and/or clutch center the plates can hang up and cause a slip/grab feeling but once they seat the clutch will be fully engaged and it should smooth out until you pull the clutch in again and the plates will get stuck in the grooves again.If it stalls the engine it could be a bad bearing allowing excess shaft movement and causing gears to bind or two gears to engage at once.That condition would likely be accompanied by a lot of whining or grinding type noises.Look at the tabs on the drive and driven plates and see if they are beat up and at the hub and basket to see if there are steps worn into the contact areas.If so replace everything.Remember it's only money!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just replaced the chain and sprockets that's what I though it was first. It does it in all gears at all speeds. Only when the clutch is fully engaged appyling slight pressure will stop it. Pulled the clutch apart again last night. No up and down play in either the shaft or basket. I was spinning the center hub with the trans in gear and everything felt good was smooth and no excesive play. Could it be caused by the stack hieght of the disc being to short since their so worn. Just can't think of what in the clutch would bind up like it does. To check the primary drive gears all I need to do is pull that side cover right?
 

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I pulled the clutch apart and some of the friction discs are toast and some of the plates have some slag on them. the basket is worn.
IMO:) I think you have already answered your own question. I refer you to the above quote.

Slag is a term used for some kind of fusion... as in welding. Not how a clutch was designed to work. "Basket is Worn" - "Friction Discs are Toast" - "Some of the plates have some Slag on them"

:confused::confused::confused:
 

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It's a bit hard to understand the symptoms for me. Let me ask you this, if you are up at a decent speed say in third not touching the clutch lever, is there a problem then, or can you ride around that way?

Clarifing what greasing the friction discs is good for. When the friction discs are old, like I assume yours are, they will engage more and more just on/off rather than having a fair bit of the lever action to gradually engage at, keep on going long enough and the engagement is fully digital, making it impossible to take off.

Greasing them very slightly will make clutch engagement as if they were new. WD-40 will do for a test but will wear off soon. Easy enough to try before buying any parts.

imho worn discs or clutch hub wont affect much other than ugly noice and a bad concious.
 

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imho worn discs or clutch hub wont affect much other than ugly noice and a bad concious.

The function of the clutch is to smoothly transfer the energy created by the engine to the transmission so it can send that energy to drive the rear wheel (in this case) to do the work.

If anything interrupts that smooth transfer, there will be some noticeable symptoms. In this case, we have a clutch with (if described correctly) metal transfer from parts that shouldn’t be exchanging material to one another. The fact that slipping the clutch allows him to ride around all day long (at a cost of course, lots of friction - causing heat, melting metal causing fusion and release/breaking that temporary fusion, etc.) without the noticeable problems noted when fully engaging the clutch causes (I’m assuming at low speeds - of course you know want they say about assuming anything), a clutch with noticeable wear to the extreme of metal transfer, basket worn (notches in the slots?), plates toast (friction material missing?), etc. It appears to me that the “Smooth” transfer of energy has been interrupted. Plates with metal transfer will most likely have high spots to catch on one another -- not exactly a smooth function, add to that notches in the basket slots, etc...

The chain and sprockets have been changed - assuming correctly, the input shaft has been checked for excessive play, none found. The fact that riding around all day long in any gear without fully engaging the what? Clutch -- slipping constantly with no other problems noted other then the fact the transfer mechanism has been compromised (clutch parts toast) tells me this would be an area to repair and get working correctly before condemning any other part of the system. The trans appears to be functioning properly because the problem doesn‘t effect it’s function in all gears with the clutch slipping - if it did, slipping the clutch would have no other effect then to keep any missing or broken teeth from meshing together when the clutch was fully disengaged, and it would act as it does partially or fully engaged if the trans had problems (if this is a question, drop the oil and check the screen for pieces of trans teeth). There comes a time when you can put bandages on something to limp along for awhile, but it won’t repair anything -- it’s a Band-Aid. :(

Given the information presented here as the problem, I would first replace the clutch components, get it to the point of transferring the energy created by the engine smoothly as it was designed to do - NO GUESSING! If it still acts the same (and I‘d be surprised if it did), nothing is lost, it’s still an item that had seen it’s better days and was ready for retirement (as I am). Parts that can be used to make a clutch basket retaining tool for the nut removal and allow for proper torque with installation.

The way I see it anyway.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just ordered my clutch components. Let you know how it works out. If it doesn't I'll be looking for an engine so keep your eyes peeled. Thanks for the help.
 
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