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I also found one oddity I hope someone can help out with. This thing was in a box with the tool kit and some miscellaneous fasteners. Any clue what it's for? Almost looks like a gear on one end and a hex bit on the other. Wrench in pic for scale.


I don’t think that’s a Ducati part, at least I have never seen it on my 916 and 996.


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Since you have the bike all apart, check the wiring from the alternator up to the rectifier. On my 97' 916, the resistance had increased over time and the wire got so hot that the insulation actually caught on fire while I was sitting at a stoplight! I was able to put it out and actually rode home not too far. I find the wiring on the older Ducatis were too small in gage and also of poor quality. The early 916's also had two wire alternator which carries more current. Later on Ducati when to a three wire alternator. I think the actual metal used is aluminum (higher resistance, cheaper) and not copper. I bought some larger gage copper wire and spliced it in right where it leaves the Alternator up to the Rectifier. Tracked the bike for many years after the fix.
 

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I just picked up my own 916 project and this thread is very interesting to me, almost the same work I need to be doing to mine :smile2:

I'll be keeping a close eye on this, my bike is sitting at my dad's shop about 90 minutes away from home, so I can't proceed very quickly on it, but I'm more than happy to see your updates and get ~inspired~
 

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For the rear axle/spacers, look at the parts for a 998, Ducati revised the design and did away with the secure clips (or what ever they are called).
The swing arm pivot axle - I know! it was a pain to get it off off mine too.
The bearings - the bigger one is hard to find and can be expensive.. type is SKF BAH0062 I found it from France. :)

Do you have a workshop manual? PM me.. ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Since you have the bike all apart, check the wiring from the alternator up to the rectifier. On my 97' 916, the resistance had increased over time and the wire got so hot that the insulation actually caught on fire while I was sitting at a stoplight! I was able to put it out and actually rode home not too far. I find the wiring on the older Ducatis were too small in gage and also of poor quality. The early 916's also had two wire alternator which carries more current. Later on Ducati when to a three wire alternator. I think the actual metal used is aluminum (higher resistance, cheaper) and not copper. I bought some larger gage copper wire and spliced it in right where it leaves the Alternator up to the Rectifier. Tracked the bike for many years after the fix.
Looks like someone has already been here, the wiring has been cut and soldered all the way from the stator to the reg/rect. Not bad for current capacity, but a huge pain when you can't remove the regulator or the battery tray from the bike without cutting wires. I'm going to put it back together as is when I start going back together, but if the voltage doesn't check out I'll probably upgrade to a MOSFET reg/rect from Jack at Roadstercycle. Not sure if they have single phase stuff though, the FH020AA I've used on the Honda stuff is all three phase.

The big downside is the crispy plug going from the reg. to the harness. I've seen this a lot on the VFR's, so it's not a huge surprise. I do like the fact that Ducati has a small sub-harness, so hopefully those are still available. Might be easier/cheaper than trying to cobble up something with replacement connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The swingarm pivot was in bad shape. I've got it bead blasted now, so combining the cleanup with a bunch of never sieze should prevent this from happening again. Almost looks like there was NO grease or lube applied when this was installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
For the rear axle/spacers, look at the parts for a 998, Ducati revised the design and did away with the secure clips (or what ever they are called).
The swing arm pivot axle - I know! it was a pain to get it off off mine too.
The bearings - the bigger one is hard to find and can be expensive.. type is SKF BAH0062 I found it from France. :)

Do you have a workshop manual? PM me.. ;-)
The rear hub and the quick change sprocket carrier (looks like it's labeled JT, same as the sprocket) both have some missing aluminum, but it doesn't look fatal. I have a 998 spacer ordered, but it might not take much more than a thin shim to fix this. The bearings feel OK, I'm planning on just cleaning up the seals on the outer sealed bearing and greasing the roller when it goes back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So I think it's finally stripped enough to try my hand at doing my first Desmo rocker clearance check :) I also wanted to get everything out of the way for a thorough cleanup. To clean deep, ya gotta go deep. :wink2:

The belts didn't look terrible, but I have no history on this bike so I'm not going to chance it. I've got a set of the Exactfit belts here and ready to go. I still need to study the procedure for the belts and valves a bit before diving in, but hopefully get through it tomorrow.
 

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Looks like someone has already been here, the wiring has been cut and soldered all the way from the stator to the reg/rect. Not bad for current capacity, but a huge pain when you can't remove the regulator or the battery tray from the bike without cutting wires. I'm going to put it back together as is when I start going back together, but if the voltage doesn't check out I'll probably upgrade to a MOSFET reg/rect from Jack at Roadstercycle. Not sure if they have single phase stuff though, the FH020AA I've used on the Honda stuff is all three phase.

The big downside is the crispy plug going from the reg. to the harness. I've seen this a lot on the VFR's, so it's not a huge surprise. I do like the fact that Ducati has a small sub-harness, so hopefully those are still available. Might be easier/cheaper than trying to cobble up something with replacement connectors.
You can use the FH020AA and just wire up the two of the three wires from the stator in the connector block. Few of us (me included) have done this and it works perfectly! I also wired the output straight back to the battery with a 30A inline fuse and picked up a healthy ~14.5v at the battery. Using the old reg and the Ducati harness, I never saw more than 13.5v.
 

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lukemiller, my understanding is the the FH020AA stator is no longer being made. Would you know what bikes that stator would have come on originally?

TIA,

SM Ross
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You can use the FH020AA and just wire up the two of the three wires from the stator in the connector block. Few of us (me included) have done this and it works perfectly! I also wired the output straight back to the battery with a 30A inline fuse and picked up a healthy ~14.5v at the battery. Using the old reg and the Ducati harness, I never saw more than 13.5v.
That's exactly how I've wired the output on all of them I've done, it definitely seems to work better. I'm going to do the same with the output of the reg/rect on this bike and wire past the burned connector, taking the output directly back to the battery through a circuit breaker. I've upgraded to the FH020AA on a bunch of VFRs, a CB-1 and a 900RR. They all have rock solid charging afterward, without touching the stators. If the voltage reading is not at acceptable levels, I'll replace the reg/rect with one of Jack's kits. I see now on his page he even mentions using the FH020AA on single phase output bikes.

lukemiller, my understanding is the the FH020AA stator is no longer being made. Would you know what bikes that stator would have come on originally?

TIA,

SM Ross
I'm not sure if they're still being made or not, but Roadstercycle still has them listed. They also list the newer SH847, which if I'm reading correctly must cut off the input instead of just shunting the excess voltage/current to ground. It supposedly keeps the stators cooler. Makes sense if they're not constantly generating and excess load is shunted.

https://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Some of this stuff is cleaning up pretty good. I need a bigger ultrasonic. :) The cooler fits good enough, but it would be nice to have one large enough where I could pop the rad in, even one side at a time.
 

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lukemiller, my understanding is the the FH020AA stator is no longer being made. Would you know what bikes that stator would have come on originally?

TIA,

SM Ross
From memory it was an R1 but I'm not sure of the year
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'm waiting on gaskets and a crank turning tool, so still not going after the valves just yet. Started cleaning up a few things in the meantime. Any suggestions for cleaning up and/or polishing the surface of carbon bits? Not sure if this is a UV issue, or just exposure to road grime and cleaning but the few carbon bits this bike has could use some work. The unexposed side seems to be in really good shape still.

Right out of the sink with light wash/scrub using just Dawn dish soap, they were pretty chalky looking. I used some 303 Aerospace Protectant and that helped, but the finish is still far from decent. Is there anything that can "polish" the surface a bit better?
 

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remove the rear wheel, then remove the spindle and check/re-grease or if necessary, replace the bearing in the single-side swingarm.

I've owned four, only one needed serious work. If you can catch it in time and do routine service/lubrication, you avoid expensive replacement.
 

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I got the lift freed up from working on another project, so now it's time to dig deep into this one. This bike looks how you would expect a bike with 20k miles to look if it's never been cleaned. :(

I'm starting with the back end, and already finding issues. There are a lot of aluminum shavings on the rear hub and sprocket carrier, almost looks like the shim washer wasn't thick enough to keep the sprocket carrier from rubbing against the hub. I need to get a good copy of the parts fiche to keep investigating. The rear axle looks fine, though. The bearings still feel good, but depending on cost I might just replace them since I'm in there already. Are the OEM parts the way to go or have people had better luck with another source for bearings?
Mine did this, quite a common fault I believe?

Anyway 916 hub carrier has a large circlip that wears the groove so that the carrier rides inwards, later 998 etc. had a modified carrier and conical spacer that solves the problem.

You can machine down the 916 carrier and just buy (or make) the spacer if you are so inclined.

Pics showing old/new setup;





 
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