[CinKo]

Just finished a 6 week windows of services and updates on a newly purchased 916 (Yes, quite a bit of work). Took it for its first ride last night and have a couple questions.

Dry Clutch:
The Dry clutch sounds likes it partly engaged in neutral at idle. While in neutral if I compress this clutch lever the "clicking" sound reduces. I was under the impression (as it has been with every other bike I have owned) pressing the clutch in at idle in neutral should not change anything. To be clear the bike does not power forward at all, and still behaves as it should in neutral (ie. rolls back and forward freely, and idle stays steady) but that dry clutch clicking nose is definitely reduced when I press the lever in. Is something off or need to be adjusted?

Rear Brake:
The rear break takes way more compression to engage then I would like it too, it feels like I have to push it two or three inches before it starts braking. Also, when releasing the rear brake the bightened taillight stays on for an additional 1 or two seconds as it seems to take the cable a second or two to indicate its been released. I believe both issues are regarding the tautness of the cable (or lack there of) I assume an adjustment needs to be made here, can someone point me in what direction is best to tighten this up?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Heisenberg]

When you pull the clutch in, you are pushing the pressure plate out. This will get rid of the rattle. Once you let go of the lever, the springs push the pressure plate back to the plates/hub and it will rattle.

You should bleed your rear brake. It should only move a very small amount. Not sure about the light, I wouldn't worry about it unless it is flickering/lighting up when you aren't engaging the rear brake (my 998 does this).

Congrats on the 916. One of the best bike Ducati ever made.

 

[CinKo]

When you pull the clutch in, you are pushing the pressure plate out. This will get rid of the rattle. Once you let go of the lever, the springs push the pressure plate back to the plates/hub and it will rattle.

You should bleed your rear brake. It should only move a very small amount. Not sure about the light, I wouldn't worry about it unless it is flickering/lighting up when you aren't engaging the rear brake (my 998 does this).

Congrats on the 916. One of the best bike Ducati ever made.

Thanks, So noise is normal?

And, I'll bleed this week.. no flicker or anything... but it does feel loose on how quick it returns.

 

[lwszabo]

They way you described the clutch sounds 100% normal to me. I’m not a mechanic but have owned a few dry clutch Ducati’s.

 

[lwszabo]

As for the rear brake mine absolutely sucks. I use it in stops but I’ve heard the supetbikes use the front for 90-95% of stopping so that also sounds normal to me. Post up some pics of your 916!

 

[CinKo]

As for the rear brake mine absolutely sucks. I use it in stops but I’ve heard the supetbikes use the front for 90-95% of stopping so that also sounds normal to me. Post up some pics of your 916!

Pictures? This is 2018! Here's a video of what Im talking about ?

https://youtu.be/eKoyau9MXOk

 

[bradblack]

the clutch sounds normal to me.

with the rear brake - there's a few things to be aware of.

1 it might just need to be bled. you haven't tried that yet?

2 the pedal has a positive stop, which is the brake switch. if it's not coming fully back then the light may stay on a little. if it's a 916 it probably doesn't have a return spring on the pedal pushing it back against the stop. the early ones didn't. the positive stop is a mushroom head screw with a lock nut. make sure the lock nut is tight. a loose nut can also cause issue 3 re freeplay, or none thereof.

3 the length of the pushrod going into the master cylinder is variable and potentially an issue. you need to make sure there is freeplay in that pushrod, which allows the piston to fully retract and open the compensating port which allows the fluid to escape the pressure side of the system as it gets hot. otherwise the brake will lock on.

you can feel the freeplay as a two stage feel on the pedal. if there's no return spring, then it's just a bit of floppy pedal before it's fully up. if you can't feel it, wind the pushrod back in (shorter) until you can. if you're in doubt, wind the pushrod all the way back. for some people this is a real sticking point, and no matter how many times you tell them to do this they wont because they "think" it's ok. might be, might not. only one way to know. if it's wrong, it'll never work.

if the pushrod is adjusted out and there is no freeplay then it can make the system impossible to bleed. when you push the pedal down and open the bleeder (or suck on it with a vacuum) it will remove fluid, but when you release the pedal it won't let any fluid in as the entry hole (compensating port) in the master cylinder is blocked. so what you get is a vacuum in the system, and no brake.

when bleeding, remove the caliper and sit it on top of the disc if the hose is not under the caliper bracket. if the hose goes under the caliper bracket (later model), hold the caliper up as high as you can so the bleeder is at the top and bleed it that way. cycle the pistons a few times too - pump them out so the pads touch and you get pressure, then push them back. just make sure they come out evenly so one piston doesn't pop out.

 

[wdietz186]

In addition to what Brad said, You should also check/lube the pedal pivot to make sure the pedal itself moves freely. Crap in the pivot can bind it up. Your clutch sounds a bit loud but normal, with use the tabs on the driven plates will beat grooves into the clutch basket making more clearance for the clutch pack to rattle around in. They weren't built to idle.