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900 super sport oil

5K views 25 replies 10 participants last post by  dirkwrong 
G
#1 ·
wat kind of oil would I use on a 2001 super sport?
 
#2 ·
900ss said:
wat kind of oil would I use on a 2001 super sport?
I like extra virgin olive oil.










Seriously, any of the major players in the oil market make a high quality product. I use Motul right now in my SuperSport, but I even used (gasp) Castrol car oil in my '87 Honda VFR for 80,000 trouble-free miles. Pick the brand your local dealer carries with the label you like the most, change the oil, then go for a nice long ride.
 
#9 ·
I used to run Castrol Syntec 5w-50 (yes, the car stuff) in my SS with no problems at all. Only cost about $5 a quart.

As far as my 749 goes, I'd probably use the castrol, or Mobil 1 in a pinch, but I just stick to cycle-specific full synthetics, change it every 2000 or so miles (or 2 trackdays).
 
#12 ·
Bella749 said:
heavier wieght oils resist breaking down at higher temps, take a little longer to get to critical spots in the engine. Light weight oils have less "parasitic loss" but bbreakdown quicker. Stick to what's recommended and you can't go wrong :)
whats recommended??? full syn, or reg, 5-50 10-40?? sae 30?? if its like a car wouldnt it be the same thing with hotter and colder times of year where u put thicker in summer and thinner for better gas milage in winter, or since these bikes run so hot all the time the thicker the better all the time?? or do i have that backwards?
 
#13 ·
ericdiver said:
whats recommended??? full syn, or reg, 5-50 10-40?? sae 30?? if its like a car wouldnt it be the same thing with hotter and colder times of year where u put thicker in summer and thinner for better gas milage in winter, or since these bikes run so hot all the time the thicker the better all the time?? or do i have that backwards?
Unless you are trying to squeeze every last HP out of a race-spec motor, I'd recommend against the ultra lightweight race oils.

Full synthetics provide superior temperature stability etc. I'd run a good quality full synthetic all year round. 5w-50 Syntec automotive oil worked great for my SS, I tend to use performance cycle oils in my 749 because I push it pretty hard on the track. I was using Klotz for $7/liter, but I tend to stick to what I can get a deal on. Don't worry too much about the weight, unless you see "0w-5 Race Castor" etc. 10w-30 15w-40 is fine. Change it every ~3k miles and you will be good.
 
#14 ·
Cool, my first oil thread! Seriously, Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle (Why? Because that's what we run in the wifes Sportster) They say it's not for use below 40F, but that's not really a problem for me. Again, I think it's more about using a quality Synthetic oil than anything else.
 
#15 ·
Aragorn said:
Cool, my first oil thread! Seriously, Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle (Why? Because that's what we run in the wifes Sportster) They say it's not for use below 40F, but that's not really a problem for me. Again, I think it's more about using a quality Synthetic oil than anything else.
I read some where once where synthetics are not good run in most cars, i forgot the article i read but could it be we are wasting money??
 
#16 ·
ericdiver said:
I read some where once where synthetics are not good run in most cars, i forgot the article i read but could it be we are wasting money??
First off, I'll admit I'm a cheap bastard. I use whatever brand/weight oil in my car that I get on sale. I tried an experiment with my '02 Dodge Ram 1500, 4.7L. I usually ran 10w-30 or 10w-40 Walmart oil that cost five bucks a gallon. My thirsty beast would consume an average of 13.1 mpg, with a highway best of 15.9 mpg.

So, I performed the 36k service, figuring I would get some better economy. Nope; not at all. Next oil change, I got a deal on some 0w-30 Mobil1 for like $4 a quart. Thinking I might cut back on parasitic losses I said "WTF" and put some in. Same fuel economy. I did, however, recoup my investment by changing my oil about 8,000 miles later.

My conclusions were: synthetics definitely hold up longer than dino-juice and Dodges really suck on gas
 
#18 ·
Here is a result from Royal Purple

300 - 500%

Greater Oxidation Stability - Increases Oil Life2


2

Oxidation life based on U.S. Bureau of Standards TFOUT oxidation test (leading synthetic 5W30 motor oil - 409 minutes; leading 5W30 mineral oil - 246 minutes; Royal Purple® 5W30 - 1300 minutes.)
 
#19 ·
Rainman said:
Here is a result from Royal Purple

300 - 500%

Greater Oxidation Stability - Increases Oil Life2


2

Oxidation life based on U.S. Bureau of Standards TFOUT oxidation test (leading synthetic 5W30 motor oil - 409 minutes; leading 5W30 mineral oil - 246 minutes; Royal Purple® 5W30 - 1300 minutes.)
so would that mean that semi syn last about 500m
 
#22 ·
ericdiver said:
I read some where once where synthetics are not good run in most cars, i forgot the article i read but could it be we are wasting money??
Owing to the longer service interval in cars, I've decided I'm in favor of them.I'm terrible about changing oil in the car, and I simply don't have to do it as often. Plenty of hi perfomance cars are coming from the factory with synthetic oil now. Harley's SE 103ci motor is the same.

I don't have a temp gauge on my bike, and I'm really not worried. A synthetic oil's superior qualities as oil temps go up are cheap enough insurance for me. They also claim you can extend the service interval in a bike somewhat, but there again, fresh oil is cheap enough. Funny how I can do an oil change on the bike on time, but never the car.
 
#23 ·
mals900ss said:
Layman or idiot terms??? Please???

Mal
poly ester is the best (i think dont hold me to it) ester based oils is what is used in jet engines. there is no true syntentic. its oil that is basically modified in a lab. i think i read that syntentic oils made from palm oil is far better the crude. but much more$ to make. redline oils is one that is said to do this. which is what i use in my bikes only. because i run them very hard. but dont do extended drain intervals. plus redline is cheap compared to motorcycle syn's. at 7.95$ a quart or so. also says right on the bottle works grear in motorcycles. i have been running redline for years in all my bikes. not to mention top fuel dragsters use redline.

but for the true definition on ester based oils. i cant tell you. go to forums.noria.com and im sure they can help you better.

extended drain intervals?? not generally a good idea due to the fact that oil gets dirty and corrosive. not to mention the filter. some say they just change the filter??? then why not just drain the oil why your at it.

i would go by hours not miles. all depends on how the engine is used.
 
#25 ·
Rainman said:
Here is a result from Royal Purple

300 - 500%

Greater Oxidation Stability - Increases Oil Life2


2

Oxidation life based on U.S. Bureau of Standards TFOUT oxidation test (leading synthetic 5W30 motor oil - 409 minutes; leading 5W30 mineral oil - 246 minutes; Royal Purple® 5W30 - 1300 minutes.)
oh i was comparing mineral to royal purple... what the heck is in that stuff, yes i guess semi would be about 320 min or something
 
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