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900ss said:
wat kind of oil would I use on a 2001 super sport?
I like extra virgin olive oil.










Seriously, any of the major players in the oil market make a high quality product. I use Motul right now in my SuperSport, but I even used (gasp) Castrol car oil in my '87 Honda VFR for 80,000 trouble-free miles. Pick the brand your local dealer carries with the label you like the most, change the oil, then go for a nice long ride.
 

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PSsssp said:
Well, after all, it is Italian.

How do you get the Crisco into the filler? With a cake decorating tool?
Wow, I thought I was the only one that knew this trick. I also pack my filter with it (to keep away from dry starts) Good point about the olive oil though, maybe if I switch to Olive Oil it would run better.
 

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If you do a search you will find MANY threads and debate here about oil.
I am using Motul 300V syth, but am going to do a test for Royal Purple.

I will post the findings then.
 

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Rainman said:
...but am going to do a test for Royal Purple.
Does it have anything to do with the hippo?;)
 

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I used to run Castrol Syntec 5w-50 (yes, the car stuff) in my SS with no problems at all. Only cost about $5 a quart.

As far as my 749 goes, I'd probably use the castrol, or Mobil 1 in a pinch, but I just stick to cycle-specific full synthetics, change it every 2000 or so miles (or 2 trackdays).
 

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ericdiver said:
curious does weight(oil) matter...and lets not be to sacrastic
heavier wieght oils resist breaking down at higher temps, take a little longer to get to critical spots in the engine. Light weight oils have less "parasitic loss" but bbreakdown quicker. Stick to what's recommended and you can't go wrong :)
 

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ericdiver said:
curious does weight(oil) matter...and lets not be to sacrastic
Yes, it does matter. If you have a male purple hippo you'll want to use heavier oil than if it's a female or an adolescent.
 

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Bella749 said:
heavier wieght oils resist breaking down at higher temps, take a little longer to get to critical spots in the engine. Light weight oils have less "parasitic loss" but bbreakdown quicker. Stick to what's recommended and you can't go wrong :)
whats recommended??? full syn, or reg, 5-50 10-40?? sae 30?? if its like a car wouldnt it be the same thing with hotter and colder times of year where u put thicker in summer and thinner for better gas milage in winter, or since these bikes run so hot all the time the thicker the better all the time?? or do i have that backwards?
 

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ericdiver said:
whats recommended??? full syn, or reg, 5-50 10-40?? sae 30?? if its like a car wouldnt it be the same thing with hotter and colder times of year where u put thicker in summer and thinner for better gas milage in winter, or since these bikes run so hot all the time the thicker the better all the time?? or do i have that backwards?
Unless you are trying to squeeze every last HP out of a race-spec motor, I'd recommend against the ultra lightweight race oils.

Full synthetics provide superior temperature stability etc. I'd run a good quality full synthetic all year round. 5w-50 Syntec automotive oil worked great for my SS, I tend to use performance cycle oils in my 749 because I push it pretty hard on the track. I was using Klotz for $7/liter, but I tend to stick to what I can get a deal on. Don't worry too much about the weight, unless you see "0w-5 Race Castor" etc. 10w-30 15w-40 is fine. Change it every ~3k miles and you will be good.
 

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Cool, my first oil thread! Seriously, Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle (Why? Because that's what we run in the wifes Sportster) They say it's not for use below 40F, but that's not really a problem for me. Again, I think it's more about using a quality Synthetic oil than anything else.
 

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Aragorn said:
Cool, my first oil thread! Seriously, Amsoil 20-50 motorcycle (Why? Because that's what we run in the wifes Sportster) They say it's not for use below 40F, but that's not really a problem for me. Again, I think it's more about using a quality Synthetic oil than anything else.
I read some where once where synthetics are not good run in most cars, i forgot the article i read but could it be we are wasting money??
 

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ericdiver said:
I read some where once where synthetics are not good run in most cars, i forgot the article i read but could it be we are wasting money??
First off, I'll admit I'm a cheap bastard. I use whatever brand/weight oil in my car that I get on sale. I tried an experiment with my '02 Dodge Ram 1500, 4.7L. I usually ran 10w-30 or 10w-40 Walmart oil that cost five bucks a gallon. My thirsty beast would consume an average of 13.1 mpg, with a highway best of 15.9 mpg.

So, I performed the 36k service, figuring I would get some better economy. Nope; not at all. Next oil change, I got a deal on some 0w-30 Mobil1 for like $4 a quart. Thinking I might cut back on parasitic losses I said "WTF" and put some in. Same fuel economy. I did, however, recoup my investment by changing my oil about 8,000 miles later.

My conclusions were: synthetics definitely hold up longer than dino-juice and Dodges really suck on gas
 

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Here is a result from Royal Purple

300 - 500%

Greater Oxidation Stability - Increases Oil Life2


2

Oxidation life based on U.S. Bureau of Standards TFOUT oxidation test (leading synthetic 5W30 motor oil - 409 minutes; leading 5W30 mineral oil - 246 minutes; Royal Purple® 5W30 - 1300 minutes.)
 

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Rainman said:
Here is a result from Royal Purple

300 - 500%

Greater Oxidation Stability - Increases Oil Life2


2

Oxidation life based on U.S. Bureau of Standards TFOUT oxidation test (leading synthetic 5W30 motor oil - 409 minutes; leading 5W30 mineral oil - 246 minutes; Royal Purple® 5W30 - 1300 minutes.)
so would that mean that semi syn last about 500m
 
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