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Discussion Starter #1
I had created this list in another forum. Thought I'd share it here, as well.

Engine mechanical and related:

Oil starvation if engine runs while bike is on its side - rod bearings fail.
Rod bolts stretch and break - bolts and tightening method were updated.
Oil screen is also the oil pickup tube and the plastic cracks causing oil aeration.
Oil pressure sender leaks
Oil cooler fittings leak
Starter clutch fails. Parts were updated. Sprag spring can be replaced if other parts are still ok.
Radiator mount breaks on left side.
Crankcase breather valve fails.
Valve adjustment specs are too wide open. Use the adjusting specs and not the checking specs.
1098R main bearings can be installed that reduce linear bearing speed - important for track bikes
Early bike specific (mostly 2007):
7m3 cams are same as 7m4 but with incorrect lock tool slots. Need to degree cams to get correct timing.
Belt idlers and tensioners were made of plastic and damage belt when worn. Upgraded parts are metal.
Original stock ECU did not retard timing during cranking causing slow crank.
Original starter and idler were updated.
Starter idler gear centre bolt loosens.
Some pistons were installed incorrectly and rings failed.
Main bearing preload is excessive causing early failure - split the cases and reshim.

Engine running inc. fuel and exhaust:

Note: There are many causes of stalling depending on myriad issues. Bikes with stock ECU and exhaust have only limited adjustments that can be made before there are other consequences.
These bikes DO NOT like to be ridden until warmed up and really DO NOT like to be started and then not warmed up fully.

Stock cans have cats that overheat. If you overfuel, they may catch fire.
Exh. Valve sticks. Even if disabled, it must be mechanically secured open.
Charcoal canister fills with fuel - remove the whole system
Intake valve deposits build up causing poor cold running. (common to all fuel injected vehicles...)
TPS sensor fails, needs resets. Replacement is available aftermarket. Reset after any work with engine management.
Kickstand switch fails causing stall/no start. Easy to bypass.
Idle screw setup is tricky and not related to engine idle speed. Have someone knowledgeable set up. Requires gas analyzer to do it right.
Throttle linkage wears - perform throttle sync.
Airbox dirt - aftermarket seals help
Fuel hose in tank pops off the filter
Quick release fuel fittings - clip part breaks.
Fuel tank swells
Fuel level thermistor fails


Voltage reg/rec fails causing multiple symptoms. Replace with Mosfet and ideally move it to a cooler area. The heat shield (was a recall) helps but not much.
Electrical connections are prone to corrosion in moist climates. Clean connections and use dielectric grease on any connector you have apart.
Handlebar switches corrode inside and fail.
Main power and ground cables tend to corrode at connection points. Remove, clean, add dielectric grease. HiCap wires help.
Main system and fan relays (right of the battery) corrode and fail. Upgraded relays are sealed.

Gearing and final drive:

Shifter bolts come loose. This was the subject of a service campaign with upgraded bolts/washers.
Shift selector spring breaks. This is the spring between the shift arm and control fork. There is also an updated control fork that is worth changing to.
Note: Shifter setup is tricky so install Factory Pro upgrade parts while in there for a more complete repair. I would go so far as to suggest that even if you only have the shifter bolts loosen, do ALL the items above in one shot including the Factory Pro shift change spring. It really will help and is worth the couple of hours it takes.
Swingarm bolt seizes in the crankcase. Grease with moly on assembly.
2007 specific:
Early rear sprockets crack and were recalled
Early rear axles are thinner and require lower wheel nut torque - 200Nm and not 230Nm (1098)
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1,256 Posts
Even though I don't own one, thank you for taking the time to compile that comprehensive ( perhaps overly comprehensive, now I might not own one ;) ) list.
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