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Discussion Starter #1
Dear members,

I want to improve the wiring in my 750ss ‘92, a.o. because it starts a bit slow even though the battery is new.

Want to make a ground cable from -battery side to frame and improve ground cable from engine to frame (RHS foot peg to RHS engine). Any other suggestions?

Best regards,
Paulis, Amsterdam
 

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Yes, do a Single Point Ground. Ground your battery to bare metal on the frame. Ground your engine to the same spot. Ground any other ground wire in the wiring harness to this same battery ground point. The easiest way to stay somewhat stock is to ground everything as factory stock, then add a ground wire from that point back to the main battery ground point.
 

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I dont know that an extra ground from RHS footpeg to RHS side of the engine is needed.The engine is bolted directly to the frame so you should have a good ground there, unless the frame has been repainted or powder coated and the contact points all are covered in paint not allowing a good ground path.
 

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Oh , yes , you didn’t mention upgrading the actual cables. Buy larger gauge wire and good ends. High grade Audio wire for auto installations like Monster brand is available in heavy enough sizes, along with high quality ends. It really can make a difference.
 

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I dont know that an extra ground from RHS footpeg to RHS side of the engine is needed.The engine is bolted directly to the frame so you should have a good ground there, unless the frame has been repainted or powder coated and the contact points all are covered in paint not allowing a good ground path.
Probably not needed, but the most foolproof to avoid any ground issues. Common mod on old Brit bikes with marginal electrics. Also learned from old trucks to ground starter to frame , body to frame , battery to frame , all to same point. Cranking can be much better.
 

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the engine to footrest mount earth cable is original fitment on the carb ss and monsters. piss it off and go from the same point on the engine direct to the battery earth. the battery to frame earth on yours should go to a post on the inside of the frame rh side of the battery which is also the half fairing bracket mount point.

there's also an earth point on the front subframe from the lh switch block from memory, fuck knows why.
 

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Don't overlook the positive side of the equation. While the ground is extremely important - and one going from the batt to the engine - I was getting almost a 2v drop on the positive side on my 86 MHR from batt, to solenoid, to starter due to the skinny, crappy positive main cables. That is until I redid both the ground and positive sides with 1,600 strand wire and the appropriate lugs. Now the starter turns the thing over with authority. BTW, the grounds now go from the batt to the eng and from the batt to the frame. OK, it still needs a good batt, but now I'm not getting any parasitic resistance. Get the wire here...

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great advise, many thanks! Today I will go to the ducati shop to get the additional wiring needed. Based on your advise I will start with 3 new ground wires ( -battery to frame, -battery to engine, engine to frame) and clean out contact point cable +battery to solenoid and clean all contact points to battery with contact cleaner. Keep you all posted!
 

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Sorry I didn’t see this sooner, I could have saved you a few hundred dollars. Normally, I mean almost all the time, the Ducati dealer will be very expensive. If you can buy something elsewhere, do it. Especially generic items like wire that you can buy at a hardware or parts store. I just bought 20 ft of #4 SuperPure stranded copper wire, and 20ft of #8, with ends and fuse holders from a car audio installation, for $2 at a yard sale. That is enough to make starter upgrade wire kits for 4-5 bikes. I think if you hit up places that do custom car audio installations the scrap pieces that are too short for them will be long enough to do a bike. You can get low resistance terminals from them too. If you know the lengths you can probably get them to put the ends you need on the wire for a good price.
 

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These DIY attempts often do not hold up very well in the field due to the high vibration on a motorcycle. We also sell kits to riders who bought the cheap knockoffs only to find that after a year or so they were getting back to the slow-starting they were at in the first place.

And you need multi-ton pressure to get a true reliable crimp. As for wire sizing, most people do not take into consideration the derating factors of the motorcycle environment (none of the factory engineers for the various makes do either). Those factors are high vibration and high heat. You need 4 ga wire or you are just wasting your time.

We make a world-class kit for the bikes. Over 60 kits to fit all the Ducs. Out SS kit has been updated since the product shot below. We make 10 different kits to fit the full series of SuperSports.

PM if you have specific questions or post here.

Thanks,

M./

hicap.II.749-999.png
 

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I bought one of your kits for my SS . Very well made, though sort of pricey for what you get. One complaint: One of the cables (forget which) was too short and had to be routed differently than stock in order to be used without putting stress on the terminal. It’s as if you didn’t actually try to install your kit on a bike after you made it. I didn’t feel that was acceptable for the price. The car audio power supply cable I use is much more flexible. You’re right, I cannot duplicate your procedure for crimping the ends on, but I have a crimp tool that does a pretty good multi sided crimp , then solder , then shrink fit. For those who don’t want to do the work, you make a good product.
 
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