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Discussion Starter #1
We have adjusted the inner steering neck eccentrics to the following:

Both lobes towards the front. So that both are as far back as they go.

Our understanding is that this gives us the following:

23.5 degree rake and 30mm offset.

However, upon doing this, the steering lock doesn't work, the steering stop doesn't work (meaning that the lower triple tree just bumps the upper part of the radiator as well).

We can't mount the steering stabilizer unless we just use a nut on the bottom of the upper triple.

While the steering lock isn't a necessity, it's the steering stop that has us concerned (mainly the fact that it just bumps the upper part of the radiator) in full turn one way or the other).

Has anyone else run into this issue? Are we correct in our thinking with the positioning of the eccentrics and the settings that it gives us? Both lobes are pointed towards the front of the bike (away from the tank).

Thanks for any information you can provide!!
 

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Jan, look on the lower triple... bolted to the clamp, there should be a small steering stop piece the looks "stepped". It should be installed for the stop to function. I did not have to mess with mine afyer changing the configuration. Otherwise, sounds like it's all setup correctly. You are correct on the steering lock, you lose that function, and it does need a nut.


 

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+1 what Bella said.

Otherwise Jan you can just send me those P.O.S. triples and I'll deal with them. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies everyone!

The steering stop on the lower triple was actually hitting the big eccentric initially and it wouldn't allow the lower triple bearing to seat fully when trying to reinstall the lower triple.

So we ended up cutting it, so that now there's just the two tabs on either side from the steering stop piece...it would probably be fine if we had about an extra 1/4" of material on the ends of these pieces.

Regarding the steering lock: when we went to put the stabilizer back on it actually hits the ignition. It won't fit no matter what.

Now, I realize that most people who are making these changes on this bike use this bike as a pure race machine and have removed the keyed ignition so this might not be an issue...but for the time being, this is an issue for me. Do any of you still have a keyed ignition?

The attached picture is how we have it now. Is this correct for the 23.5 degree and 30 mm offset?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys! We will make that change today!

Just got the front forks resprung for my weight. They were spring @ 1.0 kg/mm from the factory apparently. Now have them spring @ .85 kg/mm.

Going to set the front end here and take it to Texas World Speedway this weekend and have my suspension guy work with me on some fine tuning for the suspension.

I'll let everyone know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
While I understand your concern Tye, I am working with an individual here locally who has quite a bit of experience with suspension set-up. For my current needs, my current track times, and my weight, all run through Ohlins, the .85 kg/mm spring is what both he and Ohlins recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I said I would come back in here and post an update on how things went Saturday at Texas World Speedway down in College Station.

http://www.texasworldspeedway.com/

Changes made to the geometry of the bike were pretty significant. Changed the rake, the offset, and the front springs. After a bit of time on the track and messing with suspension settings, we figured out that the previous owner had taken the cheap way out on the suspension and had swapped out the fork oil for a MUCH heavier fork oil than what should have been in there. Needless to say, when we respring the front end, the correct oil was put in there.

A bit of background on my track experience: I've been riding at the track for about a year. I started in March. This was only my second track day in the Race group. I still run street tires for various reasons (currently running BT016s). Please, no comments here...;) Thus far, I've had the bike about 4 months and been to the track a total of 6 times on it.

It was pretty chilly in the morning and the track never really came into its own all day. In the later part of the afternoon, it started to spit ever so slightly.

Needless to say, I was getting into a lot by making all of these changes at once on the bike and then getting out on a cold day onto a cold track. Having spent a few days on the track on the bike with the previous settings then going to these settings, it was like riding on an entirely new bike.

I had to completely readjust my turn in points. The first 2 sessions out, I found myself almost running up on the curbing from my normal turn in points. This meant that I could go much deeper into corners before initiating my turn in and that I could also get on the brakes much later than before thanks to the faster response of the front end.

Also, thanks to the resprung front end, I'm now finally able to get enough weight over the front end to actually build up enough heat and to plant the front end to have it actually do some good. Previously, I would come in after a session and the front tire would have hardly any heat in it, much less look like it had been ridden on the track. Now, it's a much different story.

I should note that I'm a fairly short individual and that body position has ALWAYS been a very strong focus point for me. Getting myself to get over the front end of the bike has never been an issue, but because of my weight and the nature of this specific bike, I've not been able to get ENOUGH weight over the front end.



Long story short, after taking my time and getting a better feel for the bike and what it's going to do, I was only about 10 seconds or so off of race pace. Which I'm very pleased with all things considered.

I still have a ways to go until I feel like I'm ready to try my hand at racing, but I'm having a blast and at this point, that's all I care about.

Next track season, I have a whole host of things I plan on trying, namely, DOT legal race tires as soon as I drop the money for tire warmers. ;) The bike came with a set of 4 year old Pilot Race tires, which I decided I would go ahead and use up before moving to the BT016s that I have on there now. But that's been the extent of my experience on race tires.

Lots of learning left to do. Hopefully some of it will include some one on one time with Ty Howard and Ronnie Hay this winter! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well, I just found out from a friend that my times weren't actually that far off for the novice group...apparently would get me a podium finish...:eek:

Still felt like I was being blown away, but those guys did have white number plates...guess it's all about perspective...hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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I hear ya, that's about what I was running... I've dipped a few "hot laps" around the 2:03mark, but It really felt like I was really working the bike hard. My biggest issue is I'm a lazy rider, I don't like over-riding my mental process and the bike started to feel reeeealy heavy. I wonder how much of a difference the R would be comparitively.
 

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I know this is an old thread but I'm confused here. ( I was cruising through the suspension threads)
On page one Jduc posted a pic of how his eccentric is adjusted and asked if it was set at 23.3.
Both Bella and Tye replied it was not, that it was 24.3 and he should swivel it.

I think this is wrong advice.
If you check your eccentric you will see that on the narrow side the top is thinner than the bottom. Conversley, on the wide side the top is thicker than the bottom.
It therefore follows that the way Jduc has his eccentric is actually 23.3.
Not onlt that, when the eccentric is in that position, the steering stops on the triple are closer to the neck and don't connect with the stop bracket on the neck.

Am I wrong ?
 
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