[Da_Bull]

I'm in the middle of converting my '03 749S from street to track duty and I have a few minor - albeit important - questions.

Yes, I've used the search function but can't seem to find what I'm looking for...

1) My race bodywork does away with the kickstand. This means the bike won't run when it's in gear. Is there are shortcut around this (i.e. switch emulator or jumper wire I can make) or would I be better served buying a bypass from a vendor?

2) The fuse block on the headlight housing - which fuses should I pull? I have a bracket to replace the headlight housing, but I still want to pull the fuses to avoid any potential issues.

3) Because I've removed the headlight housing I have come across two things inside that I'm not sure what to do with. The first is the air temp sensor ... anyone have a recommendation as to where to mount this? How sensitive is it to placement? Also, there is what I believe to be a relay block inside the headlight housing - it's fastened to the bucket just below the air temp sensor - what the hell is this thing and do I need to plug it in?

I think that's about it for the questions. Thanks in advance for the guidance.

Once the bike is fully dressed I'll post some pics of the color scheme ... it's painted to match my new leathers.

 

[tye1138]

1) My race bodywork does away with the kickstand. This means the bike won't run when it's in gear. Is there are shortcut around this (i.e. switch emulator or jumper wire I can make) or would I be better served buying a bypass from a vendor?

http://www.tpoparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=29

2) The fuse block on the headlight housing - which fuses should I pull? I have a bracket to replace the headlight housing, but I still want to pull the fuses to avoid any potential issues.

There is a harness from Ducati Performance which eliminates all the fuses for the headlights and cleans things up a bit. You shouldn't have to pull any fuses.

3) Because I've removed the headlight housing I have come across two things inside that I'm not sure what to do with. The first is the air temp sensor ... anyone have a recommendation as to where to mount this? How sensitive is it to placement? Also, there is what I believe to be a relay block inside the headlight housing - it's fastened to the bucket just below the air temp sensor - what the hell is this thing and do I need to plug it in?

Air temp sensor can be zip-tied to the racing fairing stay. I usually keep it away from things that get hot... You can unplug the relay block.



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[Da_Bull]

I can't believe I'm saying this: Thank you, Tyler.

I have male and female weathertite connectors so it looks like I can make my own bypass for the kickstand switch.

As for the fuse block - I am not making a long term conversion; therefore I am not interested in buying harnesses. Does anyone know which fuses are the ones to pull?

 

[tye1138]

As for the fuse block - I am not making a long term conversion; therefore I am not interested in buying harnesses. Does anyone know which fuses are the ones to pull?

Its the smaller of the fuses, I think they're 5 amp fuses.

But its easy to find out... Start the bike up and start pulling things out until the bike shuts off.



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[Chuckracer]

If you've pulled the lights and signals, why bother pulling any fuses?

 

[Da_Bull]

If you've pulled the lights and signals, why bother pulling any fuses?

Paranoia!

Got a wiring diagram today and sorted all of my issues. Thanks people!

 

[Herbivator]

You don't need the by-pass kit just the kickstand eliminator. I used to just stick piece of wire in there, but the eliminator is a more trustworthy

 

[esca_rossa]

I used to just stick piece of wire in there

+1

Does this mean I cannot switch bikes with you again on ACH???

Bastard!!

Wish I were heading to Laguna with you and the crew...

 

[mad]

It's much simpler.
-Just leave the fuse block intact and zip tie it to your fairing stay after removal of your nose fairing and headlight bucket. Also zip tire your air temp sensor to the fairing stay; anywhere will do. As a matter of fact, zip tie ALL loose wires from the nose coiled up to the fairing stay.
-Remove the kickstand switch from the kickstand and zip tie it in the "run" position and zip tie that up neatly a few inches forward to itself below the engine and slightly in front of the kickstand location.
-Remove your horn.
-Remove the tail lighting along with the license plate stuff under the muffler. It's a simple plug in operation just below the seat on the right side.
-Install your track bodywork.
-Go ride...don't forget your sport chock or pit helper if no sport chock.
-I've NEVER had any issues setting up like that and makes converting back to street a simpler job.