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Discussion Starter #1
So Ive searched, researched and just wanted to double check what Ill be needing to undertake this conversion....be it that the threads are long and a couple years old; So if theres any new/updated/opinions/info to help me thru this process its much appreciated.

Parts needed:

749/999 Front and rear Marchesini wheels
749/999 Front rotors
" " Rear Rotor
" " Rear Sprocket
" " Sprocket carrier
" " Rear Brake holder

Spacers (from fast frank, etc)
Sport 1000 Front Brake Caliper
Sport 1000 Rear Caliper
And I just saw that rear caliper bracket so that has to be on my list


Right guys?

...I plan on tracking my SC....so for the meantime these will be used w/ the stock front fork setup; any fork/triple combos you guys know of?



Thank, J.
 

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for the 999R wheels:

Rear Wheel is a direct bolt on with the stock break set up.

Front wheel needs a spacer, and you can use the stock rotor set up if you use 4P brembo calipers, no need for any adaptors. If you have the dough I recommend the brake upgrade.

Speedy moto triples with adjustable showas from an S4R would be a truly great improvement. If you don't have on already, I'd skip the triple for a TMSD. Ask JC if he still has some. Hands down the best mod on the bike.

have fun!

BTW, since you are local, I would recommend chatting with Andy at West Coast GP Cycles on Pico. He did my setup. These guys rock.
 

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I just finished my swap, here's what I needed:

Rear:
999 rear Marchesini wheels
999 rear rotor
999 rear sprocket
999 rear sprocket carrier
999 rear calliper and mount
Custom rear spacers (I bought the Fast Franks and am very pleased)

Front Options:
999 Marchesini wheels
and...
1) 999 rotors (15mm offset)
Stock callipers (Machine mounting tabs 1.5mm, or will rub a bit between carrier and disc)

2) 999 rotors (15mm offset)
999 4p/4p callipers (Must machined mounting tabs 5mm)

3) MTS 1200 rotors (10mm offset)
999 4p/4p callipers (perfect fit)

I started with the 999 rotors and stock callipers, but confirmed what poolagent found, that it's an interference fit. Seems to work fine, but it's not right. I recently bought some 999 4p/4p callipers and plan to switch to a 1200 rotor or some other 10mm offset rotor. I was going to machine the 4p/4p callipers, which may be a better option, as 999 rotors are lighter and more abundant, but I just want it to bolt up with no modifications.

Guy
 

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Yep, I agree with all of the Guy's response above.

Oh, and you want a speedo-healer as well. Search for that, it is VERY simple install.

Fast Frank has made this swap easier and cheaper for those in the USA. The German spacers were pricey when I did it two years ago.
 

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Cost

How much does this conversion cost? Ive found some good deals on the wheels from 749/999, but what about everything else? Ideally i would want some carrozzerias but those are 2500 mounted. I can find the take offs for somewhere close to $750 and under, and can powdercoat them for $90 a wheel. Anybody have THE list of parts needed witj a grand total? Thanks.
 

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it is expensive.. here is approxiamtely what I spend when I did mine the first time...
front and rear wheels - $700
front mts1200 discs - $350
front 999 calipers - $400
rear caliper $90
rear mounting plate $50
spacer kit $200
speedo healer $115
sprocket & chain $250

about $2155 in total....
 

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Yes, I forgot the SpeedoHealer, which is necessary as the 999 wheels are 5 bolt instead of 6 bolt, so the speedo reports 5/6th speed.

The conversion is expensive, and there are other options, such as the Carrazzerias... but I find them a little sharp edged in appearance. The Marchesini just look like they belong on the bike. Your opinion may differ.

What you getting for you money is more than just wheels:
- Front callipers: 4p/4p from 2p/2p floating calliper (floating callipers are terrible
- Rear calliper: 2p/2p from 1p/2p floating calliper
- Rotors: OEM 1200 4.5mm, 999 4.5mm or aftermarkets 5mm floating from 4mm stock (I never knew they were so thin until recently)
- Drivetrain (you could just do a rear sprocket, but now's the time to do a 15/43 520 conversion about $100 more)
- The SpeedoHealer will correct the 8% factory speedo error.

With most of the other wheel options, you will either need some of this stuff as well, or will want it later.

My only regret ... was not spending more for the forged wheels. The cast wheels are very close to the stock wheels weight. Your really only shedding about 5lbs per wheel from stock with the cast by loosing the tubes. Yet, still, it's still a very BIG difference in how the bike rides and turns, I almost oversteered the first few corners as it turns at 60mph, like I was only going 40, and bombs all feel smaller. It's definitely worth what I paid. The forged would be shedding about 10lbs per wheel, I imagine it would by an unbelievable differance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
costly...but for about 2000 bucks it sounds like a very good upgrade.


What front fork setups are you guys running? Thinking of leaving it stock for now but since Im upgrading the wheels/brakes I have to change out the non-tuneable stock forks as well
 

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Now your opening a new box. You can search for S4r shows, like the rest of us (perfect bolt up, udjustable, ti-ni, but overpriced), s4 (adjustable, no to-ni, still overpriced). St2/4 (a little taller than stock may cause some fit issues with gt type bars or fenders)...

Or, change to superbike forks. Then you can use the superbike brakes, rotors, forks, clip-ons as one set. This takes modifying the stock triples, but may be cheaper than finding one of the rarer forks in the end, probably perform better, and further parts and upgrades are plentiful.

I'm still deciding.
 

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Painfull ...

Radial callipers are cheaper than the 4p/4p I'm still waiting to install.
999 Rotors are cheaper than the heavy 1200 rotors I'm waiting for delivery (and I already have 999 rotors)
The 1098 fender I like would fit rather than compramising on a Monster fender.

And I thought I was done with my front end for now... :confused:

BTW, did you see the 650 Euro Marzocchi forks in Black! There also 50/54 ... I wonder if they perform alright, they're one leg compression / one leg rebound adjustment.
 

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The heavier MTS1200 rotors do make a difference to how quick it will steer.
I used the mts1200 rotors with the 999 4p4p calipers and I also used the 999 rotors with the stock calipers (not very good fit) and now the same 999 rotors with the brembo monobloc.

It is much easier to turn in with the lighter rotors.

Just buy some ohlins on ebay and be done with it... you will never regret it!
 

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Maybe this has been covered, but are the 999 and 999R rotors the same? I'm looking at buying front rotors off a 999R and hoping these have the same offset. I'm gonna run 999R wheels, though with non-radial calipers.
 

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The heavier MTS1200 rotors do make a difference to how quick it will steer.
I used the mts1200 rotors with the 999 4p4p calipers and I also used the 999 rotors with the stock calipers (not very good fit) and now the same 999 rotors with the brembo monobloc.

It is much easier to turn in with the lighter rotors.

Just buy some ohlins on ebay and be done with it... you will never regret it!
Is the weight difference between the MTS1200 and 999 rotors general, or only for OEM? The HPK rotors ought to be the same weight, right?

Anyone had any problems with fit when running the MTS rotors?
 

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Is the weight difference between the MTS1200 and 999 rotors general, or only for OEM? The HPK rotors ought to be the same weight, right?

Anyone had any problems with fit when running the MTS rotors?
OEM first and foremost. The MTS rotors have steel carriers vs. the 999 aluminum. Aftermarket, assuming you get the offset matching the MTS spec, may be lighter, but it'd be best to confirm that with the manufacturer first. If you have the 999 rotors already, I'd weigh those as a starting point.

Small weight variances here do make quite a difference. I've heard someone who knows a fair amount bikes mention that losing 1 lb of rotating, unsprung weight can be equal to dozens (plural) of lbs elsewhere on the bike. I have no scientific backing for that, but based on my own experiences, to a degree, I believe it.
 

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OEM first and foremost. The MTS rotors have steel carriers vs. the 999 aluminum. Aftermarket, assuming you get the offset matching the MTS spec, may be lighter, but it'd be best to confirm that with the manufacturer first. If you have the 999 rotors already, I'd weigh those as a starting point.

Small weight variances here do make quite a difference. I've heard someone who knows a fair amount bikes mention that losing 1 lb of rotating, unsprung weight can be equal to dozens (plural) of lbs elsewhere on the bike. I have no scientific backing for that, but based on my own experiences, to a degree, I believe it.
Thank you very much greggers. Seems like the MTS ones definetly are the better choice then if the performance is the same.

EDIT: I've rear alot about "there not being a good alternative MTS1200 rotors available". The HPK from Brembo seems like an awfully good alternative, or am I missing something?

http://motowheels.com/i-9806560-brembo-hpk-disk-kit-ducati-5-bolt-10mm-offset-monster-796-monster-1100-monster-1100-evo-hypermotard-diavel-mts1200.html

They ought to be direct fit with the 999 wheels and axial mounted 999 calipers.

Sorry, I'm really overdoing this, but buying non fitting items has been a huge problem for my GT1000 lol.
 

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So, I finally got around to start doing the conversion. As mentioned earlier I bought some hpk brembos for mts1200 expecting these would bolt right up without complications. Unfortunately, there was a slight case of interference on the inside of every rotor towards the caliper. It's real minor, but still noticeable. Bike could probably be used like this even though not fully correct.

I tried some 2 mm shims I had nearby, between caliper and mount, but these were too big and actually caused the buttons to interfere with the caliper ---> way bad.

I will make some 0.5 mm shims and check fitment. I think this will ok.

I will get back with result. So stoked about this conversion.
 

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Anyone mind sharing speedohealer calibration? Was thinking tire size is close to equal, then 6/5=1.2. So a 20 % increase ought to be pretty accurate to OEM.

Then there's the speedo error from factory, which has been said to be around +8 %. 1.20*0.92 = 1.104. Used +14.0 % to be on the safe side.

Any other ideas?
 

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Anyone mind sharing speedohealer calibration? Was thinking tire size is close to equal, then 6/5=1.2. So a 20 % increase ought to be pretty accurate to OEM.

Then there's the speedo error from factory, which has been said to be around +8 %. 1.20*0.92 = 1.104. Used +14.0 % to be on the safe side.

Any other ideas?
I saw 14% somewhere too when I searched. I think it was Tmnstr said it. I set mine to 14 and i was on the fwy and it said I was doing 90, minivans were passing me. I dont think it's right on MY bike. I am just going to set it to 0, then use my gps and figure out wtf it is.
 
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