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Discussion Starter #1
My 748 is precariously vertical when on its kickstand. I believe it has an aftermarket stand (a billet one). however I also hear form a forum member that maybe other things like the rear wheel eccentric may be at play here. I dont see anything out of whack, but I thought id post here and see what the experts say. The stand is 27cm in length from the bottom of the foot to the centre of the mounting/poivot hole. Im unsure on the wheel eccentric, as its very different to the ones ive seen on my Kawasaki ZRX1100.

you actually have to tip the bike to the right to sweep the kick stand up or down. Always been like this since I got it, but Its gotta be wrong. Any one able to measure their kickstand length ? im ok with aftermarket if its the right length, but then I need to know why its like this?


IMG_4378.jpg


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Discussion Starter #2
More pics incase they help

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Hard to tell from the picturesa but you may be in the wrong side of the eccentric. Pull the rear wheel and look at the axle to make sure you are in the bottom half of the range. The top run of chain at the rear sprocket does look high to me which also pulls the lower run up and will chew up the lower slider and swingarm so look there for damage.
 

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grand poobah
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My stock stand is about 10 inches from center of foot to center of pivot bolt.
I agree with duc vet. In the second set of pictures the axle appears to be above the casting mark on the swing arm. This just needs the eccentric to be rotated to the lower position. Take the wheel off, loosen the two eccentric clamping bolts at the rear of the swingarm, and rotate the eccentric forward and then down till the chain is at preferred tension. Retighten the eccentric bolts and replace the wheel.
The other issue is the forks appear to be "high" in the triples. There are reference marks on the top of the forks. I have run my forks with the bottom reference mark even with the outside edge of the upper part of the triple. Both of these changes will effectively "raise the bike" and will make the side stand function properly. There were some old threads that have suspension recommendations to run the front forks as you have them and this was referred to as the Stink bug set up. It put more weight on the front end for race track use.
Best Wishes Brad.
 

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I also appears that the bike has been lowered in the front by sliding the forks up in the yokes. Check this dimension.
Picture 2020-05-10 at 5.22.29 PM.jpg
 

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Retired Pipe Polisher C2H6O+
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That looks like the longer than stock side stand I put on my Monster when I raised it.

Yep 270mm. It’s quite a bit longer than stock.




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A lot of people get sketched out by the opposite condition with the stock kickstand, that it looked like it was leaned over too far on the stocker, hence the aftermarket market for a longer kickstand. If you adjust the other factors at play here you may find the kickstand length to be to your liking.
 
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Raise the rear and the bike will lean more and you can keep the side stand that you have. You are toying with the turning/leaning performance/stability at point. Jack up the ride height so that the ride hight adjuster shows 4 threads on the "eye thing" on either end of the rear ride hight adjuster. Turns out you will like how it handles. Fine tune from there. Leave the front as is. I can post a picture if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks you guys, great input

I assume I can use a shock wrench to rotate that eccentric adjuster ?
 

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Agree with setting the front end to the correct height first before you go crazy here. I have the same stand on both my bike and then lean just fine, not too high but also not trying to punch a hole through the earth like the stock side stand.

Get you suspension right then recheck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Will do.

just to be clear , can I/do I use a shock adjuster tool to rotate the eccentric ? or is there a "Special tool" for this ?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Yea, I dont have the tool kit unfortunately.....I'm F'd . Ill have to buy one I guess.

I think I do have the right special socket for it but no eccentric wrench...off to EBay I go. EDIT : ....unless the one off my Hawk GT will fit, just remembered it has a similar tool in the tool kit.

thanks
 

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Early eccentrics could be rotated 360 degrees if the chain had room. Later versions could NOT (factory caught on to the mistakes) due to the slot in the brake stay being too short. In those cases on later ones you need to remove the stay and then rotate it to the correct area. Before you do any of that though remove enough parts to see if you are in the right or wrong area. i do see it in fact there was a youtuber who just refurbished a 748 and his was wrong to start. Some were done by mistake but others were a attempt at lowering the bike for a short rider which given the forks may be the case here.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi guys, I ordered a tool off Ebay for the eccentric. When I installed the forks, I measured my fork height according to the manual I have, it gives 2 different measurements. Some bikes are 408.5 from the centre of the front axle per the diagram above, others (mine included, a 2000 748, and the reason I measured them how I did when I installed these new forks) says 244mm from the top of the fork cap to the top of the lower triple clamp. thats what I did when I installed these forks. If thats wrong, then my manual is wrong.

The rear I suspect was rotated to make the bike lower as a woman owned it before me, she likely had a shorter inseam.

Thanks to all of you for all the good advice here, very much appreciated.

Ill be waiting on my eccentric tool now.

in the mean time, ill finish doing the bodywork on my Mid's and Lower fairings in preparation for paint and new decals next week.
 

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Most bikes I've seen seem to be set up with the fourth height ring just level with the outer edge of the top triple and the third ring aligning with the beveled section. The photo Strega Posted shows this.

If the rear eccentric is flipped and rotated upwards like you said flip it and adjust ride height with the linkage as needed. 17 and 19mm wrenches for the irde height turnbuckle if I recall correctly (reminds be I need to go futz with one of my bike's ride height today actually lol).
 

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Making these changes has the effect of raising the center of gravity of the bike back to factory specs which will improve "flickability " in turns — so expect overall handling improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Guys. Ill sort the rear out first and then ill likely move the forks a wee bit per the suggestions.

thanks again
 
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