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Discussion Starter #1
As with most ducatis, it seems, my bike gave me the option of seeing only 5 feet in front of me with the low beam, or barely seeing anything 30 feet in front of me with the high beam.
I adjusted the headlight a few times, pointing it up a little higher, with very little improvement.

Figuring it to be a cheap investment, I'd looked at some other bulbs (PIAA, etc) which claimed to be brighter, but I figured I'd might as well go all out and just get the brightest bulb I could find. Hey, it worked great on the Ninja!

So, I bought a pack of these: $10 for 2 of them.

I'd used similar ones before on the Ninja, and found them to work great, last a very long time (10,000 miles so far, including lots of off-road riding).

The difference is dramatic. I can actually see now! Living in deer country, I was afraid to ride at night before. Now, I'm not scared anymore.

The headlight still leaves something to be desired, but the difference is well worth the cost.
So far at least (maybe 100 miles of city commuting or so) the headlight doesn't seem to be getting too hot, and the stock wiring seems easily able to handle the extra load of the 130w highbeam.

Just a heads up for any of you dissatisfied with the performance of the stock candle.
 

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Pack Of These...

He is talking about the H4 130/90w 10K XENON HID light bulbs. I hope this helps Jack.
 

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Ahh, thanks for the clarification.

Take a look at the plug and wire connection at the bulb. You may find that the wire insulation and connector are a bit burned or brittle. The headlight has a large amount of surface area, so it may not feel like there is more heat be generated, but you've effectively doubled the amperage going through those wires.
 

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Just knowing that "the tube will not burst because of bleb or hydrosphere" is enough to convince the skeptic. ;)

Cripes.

pg
DD
 

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I would be concerned about all the load, on the wires, if you truly want to run bulbs that big, i would upgrade the loom to carry the load, things are going to get toasty warm.
 

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I would be concerned about all the load, on the wires, if you truly want to run bulbs that big, i would upgrade the loom to carry the load, things are going to get toasty warm.
I think post MY 2000 will be ok. I know for sure they will be ok on my r1150r:)

Good tip skippi.
 

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I bought a PIAA H4 bulb and it's garbage. Don't see how this could be any better, regardless of price....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The one you linked to is a 60/55w.
They try to claim that thier blue tinting and higher gas pressure make it look as bright as a 135w bulb.

The one to which I linked is actually 130w, and would look as bright as a 260w bulb (if you believe that).

Since the bulbs come in a pack of two, I've got the extra one. I'll send it to you for $5+shipping if you want to try it out.
 

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Stock bulb is about 55W so I would be a very skeptical of using this wattage.
On a side note 10,000 Kelvin is so blue that it will give much less useful light then a bulb that is 4,000 Kelvin. I would suggest spending $100-$150 and getting a quality HID unit.
 

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Stock bulb is about 55W so I would be a very skeptical of using this wattage.
On a side note 10,000 Kelvin is so blue that it will give much less useful light then a bulb that is 4,000 Kelvin. I would suggest spending $100-$150 and getting a quality HID unit.
I WANT a quality HID unit, but I never make purchases over $100 without doing research first. If someone made an HID H4 bulb/system that was ,in fact, (2) HID bulbs molded onto a single H4 baseplate, then I'd buy one tomorrow.

I'm not impressed with the system the HID aftermarket companies have come up with to give a single H4 bulb a High and Low Beam. Also, one of the reasons for poor headlight performance (as stated before) is the poor reflector quality/design. Regardless of how bright a bulb is, if you reflect it forward with a wad of crumpled aluminum foil, you're going to have a lackluster headlight.
 

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I have an HID low beam I installed on my BMW and the difference was amazing to say the least. You will see many good reviews from others here that have done a low beam install on their bike.
My question to you is if the most you could lose if you didn't like the system was some install time and maybe $20-$40 in lost money to resell the kit you bought, why wouldn't you try it???? Safety is all you have to gain. If you lived around here I would even help you do the install.
 

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Headlight saga

I have obviously had standard - crap

Put in an HID eBay kit, hi/lo. Low is utterly amazing, blow your mind and lots of other ravings, but high is poor. Why? Because the arc does not move up, when it moves back, simulating the location of a filament based H4 bulb and of course the reflector is crap.

As per earlier posts, I measured the voltage drop thru standard wiring with a 55/65 W bulb and it was 1.8 V from the battery to the bulb - this means some 30% loss of light cos the bulbs are designed to operate at full on charge (motor running) voltage.

I spent very little money and bypassed the crap tiny wiring loom wires, all the connectors and switches using two relays, beefy cables, some spade connectors and an H4 connector and a fuse.

Much better, but there is still the problem of bad optics or crap reflector or whatever you term you want to use. This will never be overcome unless you get rid of it and do a complete mod to dual headlights, with one dedicated to low beam and the other to high.


I now run an H4 with 90W low beam and 130 W high to give more lighting oomph and it has not melted the cover, but there is some discoloration on the reflector above the bulb, but hey I can see a bit better.

I am now obsessed and spend my riding time looking at other bikes headlights and wonder why even some bloody scooters have better lights than my 01 900SS. How sad!

The attached circuit works as it is in/on my bike.
 

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I have obviously had standard - crap

Put in an HID eBay kit, hi/lo. Low is utterly amazing, blow your mind and lots of other ravings, but high is poor. Why? Because the arc does not move up, when it moves back, simulating the location of a filament based H4 bulb and of course the reflector is crap.

As per earlier posts, I measured the voltage drop thru standard wiring with a 55/65 W bulb and it was 1.8 V from the battery to the bulb - this means some 30% loss of light cos the bulbs are designed to operate at full on charge (motor running) voltage.

I spent very little money and bypassed the crap tiny wiring loom wires, all the connectors and switches using two relays, beefy cables, some spade connectors and an H4 connector and a fuse.

Much better, but there is still the problem of bad optics or crap reflector or whatever you term you want to use. This will never be overcome unless you get rid of it and do a complete mod to dual headlights, with one dedicated to low beam and the other to high.


I now run an H4 with 90W low beam and 130 W high to give more lighting oomph and it has not melted the cover, but there is some discoloration on the reflector above the bulb, but hey I can see a bit better.

I am now obsessed and spend my riding time looking at other bikes headlights and wonder why even some bloody scooters have better lights than my 01 900SS. How sad!

The attached circuit works as it is in/on my bike.
Is there a dual headlight mod for our bikes? I have a low beam from a Jaguar XJ8 sitting around and am toying with the idea of installing it on my 750. The light output is so bad that if I'm on the beltway I'm constantly outrunning my headlight as there's no lighting in certain places. Very frightening indeed.

Cheers,
C
 

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Dual headlights

It should be possible. I have started looking at the dual kits available for streetfighters. These can be supplied with brackets and you can indpendently adjust each light.

The challenge will be making it look good. I have also been keeping an eye out for smaller, shaped lights like R1s etc. have. It may be possible to "extract" the two shaped lights then fit them in the space left by removing the original the going some fibreglass work to fill in the gaps.

Given the number of post 97 SS models out there and the common theme of crap headlight, there is probably an opportunity for someone who has the time to develop a solution. I have looked at the aftermarket twin lights for the ST series, which includes an infill, but personally do not like the twin round light appearance.

Another option when on high beam is to mod the wiring a a bit different to my last post to keep low on when high is on. With a standard H4, the load will be 55 + 60 = 115 W. I am running a 90/130 at the moment, via my wiring mod without battery, alternator or reflector issues, so 115 should be OK - WITH the wiring mod.
 

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I modded my SS to accommodate a dual headlight, basically by using the high beam voltage to a relay, allowing me to run a quasi "euro" switch. So on/off, with a dual headlight. I used the small rectangular headlights from your typical auto parts store. This saved me about 12lbs of weight at the same time.

The down side is that it's very hard on the switch and tends to melt it over time, so either get new switches, reverse the button action for the switching method(ie: turn off at high beam/on at low beam) or bone up and buy the euro switch.

Easily done each way.
 

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I've tried doing a search on this but can't seem to find what I'm looking for, has anyone ever installed a HID kit on the 748 and documented this with pics?

Hall of Wisdom doesnt have anything like this in there so I thought I would post it up in here.
 
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