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why?...so you can have more contact patch as you roll straight up and down Florida?....seems pointless....

BTW...this topic was moved from where you origionally posted it because it was no where near the required parameters for the Hall Of Wisdom....please READ stickies in certain areas before posting nexttime!...they are there for a purpose!...not just as a waste of space or breath...because we stick to our guidelines here!
 

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I believe the axle and spacers are different...not sure about the sprocket flange...but you could check on ducati.com in the parts fiche they have between a 620 and a 1000 on all parts involved to be sure...my personal problem with a 180 tire is the ability of turn in....regardless of the Monster's engine size....I want my Monster to fall into a turn quickly and easily....it may not handle the same with a 180 on it and therefore it may all be for nothing....I understand the need to personalize a bike..especially a Monster....I just wonder at what cost to ridability....to me...if I can't ride it...then it is worthless or near to it!
 

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I just did some looking at parts diagrams between the 2...the swingarms are different part numbers...more than likely due to spacing....the spacer inside the wheel is different....the rear sprocket flange is different as well as the 6 pins that it goes onto....the outer spacer on the sprocket side is different(probably acts more like a shim than anything,but specifically sized) the sprockets are different ring gearing...and the bushing between the bearing and the flange is different.....
 

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teamman1 said:
Most of my friends Jap 600 bikes roll on 180's ( from the factory ) with no problems, why would it be different for a monster 620? :cool:
...for one...the center of gravity difference and how the bike is set up...for two..the width of the wheel does somewhat determine how a tire somewhat takes its contoured shape to the road...but with the shorter wheelbase of the Monster the turn in is generally quicker and to spread the rear tires contact patch wider will slow down the rate at which it will turn in easily.
 

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I thought about it alittle bit and here's how to better explain and demonstrate it....when you look at a 160 or 170 series tire....it has more of a defined curvature to it....the wider a tire becomes...the generally speaking flatter it becomes also in curvature...180 and 190 series tires generally speaking have more of a contact patch because they are wider and flatter in curvature...then you get the super wides like what are on the choppers and so forth that have 240-320 series tires on em to exaggeratingly demonstrate the premise of what I am saying...and alot of the tire contacts the road...less turn in though...harder to roll a flatter surface over towards its side...you have to work more and do things to the dynamics to coax the tire over...whether it be via a pointy front tire to point it downward....or the forces of the bike and rider dynamically pushing the bike over into its natural lean....now if you are hardly turning....its no big deal...but when you have to...you have to work the bike more....if you are twisting up the curves with your buddies....then you want the narrower profile so that you can run like this....
these pics are "RunnerBaylistic" on his Monster 800


 

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Ducman...1st...thank you for some deeper on hand explanation of difference....2nd...I'm curious...what size tire will YOU be running?...170 or 180?
 

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fasterdammit said:
I think somebody could make do with some higher exiting pipes, maybe a pair of rearsets ... I realize that's his kneepuck making sparks, but his exhaust ain't far behind!
you outta go look at his other pics! where you can see some other parts draggin and showering sparks!
 
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