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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever tried installing a 5.5 wheel w/ 180 tire on an M620ie? If you have info or know were to get info I would appreciate it. :D
 

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I dont recommend. The tire is too wide for the rim and the result will be that the tire profile will be distorted to fit the rim. The stock size tire for the 620 is a 160, I tried a 170 once. While it did fit, it didn't look right and due to the fact that the profile becomes somewhat steeper it wore in the center much quicker. Result of tire size or compound not sure?

In any case, my opinion is to stick to the 160.
 

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why?...so you can have more contact patch as you roll straight up and down Florida?....seems pointless....

BTW...this topic was moved from where you origionally posted it because it was no where near the required parameters for the Hall Of Wisdom....please READ stickies in certain areas before posting nexttime!...they are there for a purpose!...not just as a waste of space or breath...because we stick to our guidelines here!
 

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Why do you want a 180 rear on a monster 620ie?

I guess it would be possible to fit the rear of a 900 monster maybe..
What clearance to you have between the swing and rear-rim today?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I want to personalize my monster by making it different!
The M1000 uses a 5.5 rim and a 180 tire. The swingarm has the same dimension as the 620. I was wondering if maybe the sprocket flange and/or wheel spacer are different sizes. Before I make the purchase I want to make sure. :D
 

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I believe the axle and spacers are different...not sure about the sprocket flange...but you could check on ducati.com in the parts fiche they have between a 620 and a 1000 on all parts involved to be sure...my personal problem with a 180 tire is the ability of turn in....regardless of the Monster's engine size....I want my Monster to fall into a turn quickly and easily....it may not handle the same with a 180 on it and therefore it may all be for nothing....I understand the need to personalize a bike..especially a Monster....I just wonder at what cost to ridability....to me...if I can't ride it...then it is worthless or near to it!
 

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I just did some looking at parts diagrams between the 2...the swingarms are different part numbers...more than likely due to spacing....the spacer inside the wheel is different....the rear sprocket flange is different as well as the 6 pins that it goes onto....the outer spacer on the sprocket side is different(probably acts more like a shim than anything,but specifically sized) the sprockets are different ring gearing...and the bushing between the bearing and the flange is different.....
 

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teamman1 said:
I want to personalize my monster by making it different!
Supercharger.

j/k.

I am with zooom on the ridability issue though. It's not like you're tucking a 250 section meat back there, and while the 180 might look a little different to the trained eye, I'm sure you'll feel the effects more than you'll notice them as its parked. I'm sure there's going to be changes in the spatial relationships of everything down there, and I'd guess that it would be more detrimental from your wallet's perspective - as well as the riding perspective - to try stuffing a slightly fatter meat back there. I'd hate to see anyone put that kind of money, time & effort into making a change like that only to like how it looks but hate how it rides - because then you have a nice/different looking bike that never leaves your garage.

Just my $.02. What do I know? ;)
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Most of my friends Jap 600 bikes roll on 180's ( from the factory ) with no problems, why would it be different for a monster 620? :cool:
 

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teamman1 said:
Most of my friends Jap 600 bikes roll on 180's ( from the factory ) with no problems, why would it be different for a monster 620? :cool:
...for one...the center of gravity difference and how the bike is set up...for two..the width of the wheel does somewhat determine how a tire somewhat takes its contoured shape to the road...but with the shorter wheelbase of the Monster the turn in is generally quicker and to spread the rear tires contact patch wider will slow down the rate at which it will turn in easily.
 

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I thought about it alittle bit and here's how to better explain and demonstrate it....when you look at a 160 or 170 series tire....it has more of a defined curvature to it....the wider a tire becomes...the generally speaking flatter it becomes also in curvature...180 and 190 series tires generally speaking have more of a contact patch because they are wider and flatter in curvature...then you get the super wides like what are on the choppers and so forth that have 240-320 series tires on em to exaggeratingly demonstrate the premise of what I am saying...and alot of the tire contacts the road...less turn in though...harder to roll a flatter surface over towards its side...you have to work more and do things to the dynamics to coax the tire over...whether it be via a pointy front tire to point it downward....or the forces of the bike and rider dynamically pushing the bike over into its natural lean....now if you are hardly turning....its no big deal...but when you have to...you have to work the bike more....if you are twisting up the curves with your buddies....then you want the narrower profile so that you can run like this....
these pics are "RunnerBaylistic" on his Monster 800


 

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The reason they have different part #s is that the 620 comes with a steel swingarm and the 1000 has the aluminum one. They are both have the same inside width. To put a 5.5" wheel on your bike you will need the wheel and the sprocket carrier for the 5.5" wheel. The 620 carrier is a tallet unit and if used the wheel wont fit. You may also have to shave abit off the brake caliper holder to align the sprockets but you can tell when the wheel is mounted if they are in line.

I have an S4 swingarm thats going on my 620 with a 5.5" wheel and this is what Ive found.
 

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Ducman...1st...thank you for some deeper on hand explanation of difference....2nd...I'm curious...what size tire will YOU be running?...170 or 180?
 

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zooom said:
I think somebody could make do with some higher exiting pipes, maybe a pair of rearsets ... I realize that's his kneepuck making sparks, but his exhaust ain't far behind!
 

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fasterdammit said:
I think somebody could make do with some higher exiting pipes, maybe a pair of rearsets ... I realize that's his kneepuck making sparks, but his exhaust ain't far behind!
you outta go look at his other pics! where you can see some other parts draggin and showering sparks!
 

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zooom said:
Ducman...1st...thank you for some deeper on hand explanation of difference....2nd...I'm curious...what size tire will YOU be running?...170 or 180?
Ill probably run a 180 or equivalent slick. This is a track only bike and is getting a set of Marvic Mags.

Heres a track shot of the Monster at BIR, It has Cyclecat Rearsets and Termi High exhaust. This was with the stock wheels and a 160 on the rear. So you can get it over pretty good on good tires and the stock wheels.

 

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BIR?.....or VIR?....if VIR...South or North?...and will you be at the MAD-Ducati event at VIR north in April?
 

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Wait, check the tread pattern, isn't that rear tire mounted backwards?

I thought about it alittle bit and here's how to better explain and demonstrate it....when you look at a 160 or 170 series tire....it has more of a defined curvature to it....the wider a tire becomes...the generally speaking flatter it becomes also in curvature...180 and 190 series tires generally speaking have more of a contact patch because they are wider and flatter in curvature...then you get the super wides like what are on the choppers and so forth that have 240-320 series tires on em to exaggeratingly demonstrate the premise of what I am saying...and alot of the tire contacts the road...less turn in though...harder to roll a flatter surface over towards its side...you have to work more and do things to the dynamics to coax the tire over...whether it be via a pointy front tire to point it downward....or the forces of the bike and rider dynamically pushing the bike over into its natural lean....now if you are hardly turning....its no big deal...but when you have to...you have to work the bike more....if you are twisting up the curves with your buddies....then you want the narrower profile so that you can run like this....
these pics are "RunnerBaylistic" on his Monster 800


 
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