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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
30mm Triple clamps and Kyle link
Has anyone here tried either or both of these on your Streetfighters? If so what were your findings and setups?
Also for those that run the Triples what have you done to add a damper mount? I imagine many have found satisfying settings but since I replaced the engine with the 1198 my tinkering has gotten out of hand.
 

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Bon Vivant
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I dont know of anybody using the 30mm offset triples for the SF. I doubt it will fit and even if it does how is that supposed to benefit the SF? - the kyle system was designed specifically to work with the geometry of the 1098sbk and is unique to the SBK. The SF is a very different animal with a completely different geometry, meaning just randomly throwing offset triples in the mix could have a very negative effect. At the very least its a kludge, I dont see it doing anything right and has a very good likelihood of doing everything wrong.

Personally it sounds to me like you bought the wrong bike and you're slowly turning it into a 1198 SBK. Why not sell it and get the bike you want?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Streetfighter

Bulldog I think your mistaken I think I did buy the right bike. I happen to like some parts of both though, the Streetfighter is far more comfortable imo. Having moved my forks in the clamps to now being flush made it feel great and that's what got me thinking it feels better with the added trail. Seems that's the very same thing Superbike owners have found and why the 30mm clamps even exist. The biggest difference between the two frames I'm told is the longer swingarm which is oddly what a few superbike builders have added to there race bike. Yea so I'd like mine a little more sharp and highly tuned to each his own. Fwiw several prominent tuners that I spoke with regarding the chassis tell me they setup both bikes to the same numbers, what does that tell you.
Look I'm not trying to get into anything with you just looking for feedback from anyone who might have done it.
 

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The steering angle on the SF is different which is probably why you like the turn in. Have you tried fitting some Renthals or Rizoma bars for better position.

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Bon Vivant
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Not trying to start an argument just pointing out that I think the SF would probably work better with parts designed specifically for it's unique geometry.

Fwiw several prominent tuners that I spoke with regarding the chassis tell me they setup both bikes to the same numbers, what does that tell you.
That tells me that most suspension tuners have a cookie cutter formula that they use on every bike. I took my SF and my MV Agusta to a suspension guy to have the suspension adjusted - he set them both up the exact same way... Personally I think suspension tuners are bit mindless, they and most guys set their bikes up for performance on the track without regard to street performance comfort and rideability at real world speeds. I think it can be done better and setting suspension on the track (which I did) for a bike that spends 99% of its life on the street makes no sense.

Quoted from Kyles info on the triples: The advantage of these clamps is mostly at the race track, doing track days or racing. The stock offset is 36 MM, these are 30 MM.

Yes I'll agree that the SF is not optimal in its nimbleness. I think Ducati was afraid of liability issues with the SF because they were doing something that had never been done by putting so much power into a super light bike with an upright riding position. I think they over compensated with the frame design trying to create more stability - but the bike sacrificed turn-in for that stability. I'll admit that the bike needs some help.

IMO the SF needs two things to make it turn in better; the steering head angle needs to be steeper and set further forward and the SA needs to be shorter - like the SBK. Do you think you will be able to feel a 6mm difference in wheelbase? Are you racing the SF or do you do a lot of track days with it? My experience with race bikes has been that making a bike better on the track always makes it worse/ more harsh/ less reliable/ more difficult on the street in real life use.

I have 2 fears in regards to fitment: the first is the forks hitting the tank. You can limit steering lock to fix that issue but again you sacrifice slow speed maneuverability for daily use. And my second question is clearance between the front tire and the radiator at full suspension compression. It is VERY close on the SF in stock form and this would make it worse.

If I were you I'd try the usual things first and see if that moves you to where you want to be - ie; bars, pointy tires, raise the rear lower the front etc. But I will bet that you will do this anyway and I'm sure it will be the best mod ever... good luck with it. :wink2:
 

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Bon Vivant
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I just noticed that you have an S model with ohlins. The triple kit from Kyle will not fit the stock ohlins - only the aftermarket R&T ohlins or the stock showa forks.


These are fit for 53MM/53MM forks like the OEM Showa's or the aftermarket Ohlins FGRT803's Road & Track Forks.
The 1098S & 1198S come with Ohlins forks that are 53mm on top & 56mm on the bottom. If you want to add the Ohlins Road & Track forks then you can use this triple clamp to make them fit your 1098S or 1198S.
 

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If I may... The best thing to do ... regarding an SFS, is raise the arse! Its not for everyone, My friend 'Geoff' couldn't touch his toes ! Stock, the 'Fighters' are 'Raked out' for safety reasons. I did not like that geometry!! I found raising the rear end gave me the 'Geometry' that worked for me . Been through it twice. I'm still working on settings.. and I Don't mind a tall bike.
 
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Bon Vivant
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Yes generally the conventional way of dealing with a bike that has slow steering caused by a relaxed rake is to raise the rear and lower the front... Seems that by raising the front jed may be trying to slow the steering down. Maybe we are after different results?
 

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Bulldog I think your mistaken I think I did buy the right bike. I happen to like some parts of both though, the Streetfighter is far more comfortable imo. Having moved my forks in the clamps to now being flush made it feel great and that's what got me thinking it feels better with the added trail. Seems that's the very same thing Superbike owners have found and why the 30mm clamps even exist. The biggest difference between the two frames I'm told is the longer swingarm which is oddly what a few superbike builders have added to there race bike. Yea so I'd like mine a little more sharp and highly tuned to each his own. Fwiw several prominent tuners that I spoke with regarding the chassis tell me they setup both bikes to the same numbers, what does that tell you.
Look I'm not trying to get into anything with you just looking for feedback from anyone who might have done it.
That's how the forks come set up from the factory on the SFS. The gold portion of the fork is flush with the top clamp with the fork caps just sticking out. If your bike wasn't like that someone lowered the front end.

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I suppose its a personal thing. How you like your bike to react. IMHO, the geometry needed correction for me. I chose to lift the rear, I don't mind standing on tip toes... I never messed with Fork height. For those who think standard settings work for you - you are a better rider than I!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ride height

Thanks all for the input here's some numbers that I've tried. I've been satisfied with turn in pretty much all along, I'm after that Velcro like stuck to the ground riding on rails feeling.

I have the TTX 36 and 32-00027 Piston kit and tried many settings currently running the Ohlins tech sheet recommended 10 comp 10 red up front and 12 comp 14 reb rear with 40mm sag front and 30 rear, fork caps are flush in the triples and using the ride height adjuster jig at 220mm in the rear. I found that the magic 235mm ride height felt nervous and progressively lowered the rear to the current 220mm. I guess in many cases my rear is low and front is high but it felt most stable and front has more confidence. My " aha " moment was when I first pushed the forks down to flush with the clamps. The bike feels nice and compliant over bumps and road imperfection's, The front has some brake dive yet doesn't push in turns either the rear is not harsh. I've run Pirelli Super Corsa's two sets and currently Dunlop Q3's 190/55 and 120/70 both seemed to behave similarly with the Dunlops lasting a little longer and both are very close in size according to the spec's available. Fwiw I too don't mind the height if ultimately the bike works the way I want it.


Blackie
I'm running Rizoma lower but not flat bars and the Woodcraft rearsets. The rearsets rocked my hips rocked a little more forward and made the bars comfortable imo more natural for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Rake and Offset

Flying bulldog How certain are you about the difference you mentioned earlier in the rake between the Streetfighter and SBK?

Moto
How certain are you about the Streetfighters offset ??
Thanks
 

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The rake is around a degree different and the SF uses the 1098R added swing arm length not the standard 1098 length


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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Rake and offset

Flying bulldog the "S" Ohlins are 53mm top and 56mm botton confirmed
Yes the swingarm is longer.
But does anyone know for sure the stock triples offset and difference in rake?
I have been told stock offset is 32 does that sound right?
Also never said the bike turns slow or fast just saying didn't feel planted and stable and was worse with the rear higher for me at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Rake and ride height

I've tried raising the tail from 230mm to 240mm with the jig and was never comfortable with the ride. The height of the seat although tall for me would have been ignored had the bike felt better on the road. Having lowered it also in 5mm steps from 230mm to 220mm I found that 220mm felt the best yet. Cornering felt much more planted and turn in wasn't suffering either.
Lastly if the rake is a 1.1 degree different than the SBK a little higher in the rear could overcome that I would think at least.
 

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You've been told several times now the rake is different why do you keep asking? Google it the info is there!
Yes increasing the rear ride height will alter the rake but also changes the COG and trail so it can be a trade off.
My SFS is great mid corner but is a bit slow to turn,my forks are pushed up 2 lines showing (3 lines was to sensitive) lower tyre pressures also,next thing I will try is raising the rear


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