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Discussion Starter #1
I have a rear wheel with 25mm axle that I want to put on an aluminum SS swingarm.

As best I can tell I have two choices:
1. Change the bearings in the wheel to 17mm ID and make a new spacer that goes inside the hub (2 bearings on the wheel and cost of machining a new spacer) I guess I would use 17mm sprocket carrier and caliper carrier from the SS.

2. Machine out the swingarm and the adjuster blocks to 25mm and use all the stuff from the 25mm wheel. Cost of machining two blocks and the swingarm.

Any thoughts?
Thanks,

Phil
 

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I have a rear wheel with 25mm axle that I want to put on an aluminum SS swingarm.

As best I can tell I have two choices:
1. Change the bearings in the wheel to 17mm ID and make a new spacer that goes inside the hub (2 bearings on the wheel and cost of machining a new spacer) I guess I would use 17mm sprocket carrier and caliper carrier from the SS.

2. Machine out the swingarm and the adjuster blocks to 25mm and use all the stuff from the 25mm wheel. Cost of machining two blocks and the swingarm.

Any thoughts?
Thanks,

Phil
I am in the process of converting a wheel to my SS. I chose to change the wheel bearings instead of modifying the swing arm. The problem with the latter is that you have to change the brake bracket also. The difficulty with adapting the wheel is that the 17 mm bearing is 2 mm wider than the 25 mm one. You have to maintain the same total axial length through the hub of the wheel, so the wheel has to be machined to accept the wider bearings. It is very simple to make a spacer. I found out that using Schedule 40 aluminum pipe is perfect. The 17 mm spacer can be made from 0.75" Schedule 40 aluminum pipe. The length is 145 mm. The 25 mm spacer can be made from 1"
Schedule 40 pipe. You can obtain the pipe here:
http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8370-round-pipe.aspx

When I first got my wheel machined last spring, I didn't find out until recently that they had screwed up, so be careful about who you send the wheel to. I have a good machinist in PA that I use if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
25mm bearing size

What size were the original bearings for the 25mm axle? (the four or five digit code, like 6202) Is it possible to just get some bearings that are a straight replacement without machining the wheel? Machining the hub makes me nervous. Just a little bit out of round will make a wheel you can never balance.

For the caliper hanger, I was just going to get one from a bike that used the 25mm axle. ST, Monster, etc. Same for the sprocket carrier.

Cheers,
Phil
 

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What size were the original bearings for the 25mm axle? (the four or five digit code, like 6202) Is it possible to just get some bearings that are a straight replacement without machining the wheel? Machining the hub makes me nervous. Just a little bit out of round will make a wheel you can never balance.

For the caliper hanger, I was just going to get one from a bike that used the 25mm axle. ST, Monster, etc. Same for the sprocket carrier.

Cheers,
Phil
The 25mm bearings are 6005 and the 17 mm ones are 6303, both with a 2RS after that number, and all of them ABEC 3+ of course. There are no direct replacements. I looked. The 6005 is 12mm wide and the 6303 is 14mm wide, as I recall. You don't machine the diameter of the bearing bore. All you do is make the existing bore deeper by 2 mm. Both bearings are 43 mm in diameter as I recall. The sprocket carrier does not need to be changed. It has 6005 bearings in it. For the 17 mm axle, there is an oem spacer used.
 

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very good information - I think a diagram would be awesome, relating out the space placement et al. This could be stickied since it's so concise.

thanks!

j
 

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very good information - I think a diagram would be awesome, relating out the space placement et al. This could be stickied since it's so concise.

thanks!

j
In my limited experience, the Monster rear wheel for the dual sided swing arm has the identical hub width as the Supersport rear wheel. In other words, the distance from the outside of the inner race to the outside of the other inner race is the same. This is for the 3 spoke Brembo wheels, but I assume it is the same for other wheels as well. I'm still in the process of correcting the error the previous machine shop did to my rear wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm, so my choices are now:
A. - Machine the bearing bore on the wheel on both sides (2mm deeper), buy new bearings, make a new spacer tube. Use 17mm axle.
B. - Machine the slots on the swingarm on both sides. Use 25mm axle.

Plan B is looking better (barely). Any reason not to go this way?

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I found the most elegant solution. I searched the posts and found a lot more on the subject.

The solution I like the best is making a new spacer for inside the wheel that has sleeves that extend to the insde of the 25mm bearings. Cost is simple the machining of a new spacer, and one bearing. I use the 17mm axle, sprocket carrier, and brake mounting plate.

Now I just have to check that the width of the wheel I am using is the same as stock.

Thanks for the help. Cheers,
 

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The easiest way to cure this problem is to get a 17x5.5 wheel with 17mm bearings from a SS or Monster, there's almost always one on ebay.

Frank
 

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i changed the bearings as wel the ones i used are SKF 361203R ones with the dimension 17x47x12mm.so the dimesion you need.

henk!!!
 

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thoughts on using a 17mm wheel on a 25mm axle?

just change the bearings?

or make a sleeve for the larger-bore sliders and use 17 axle?

i got an SS wheel w/17mm bearings and need to use it on swingarm with 25mm axle....
 

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I think I found the most elegant solution.


I searched the posts and found a lot more on the subject.

The solution I like the best is making a new spacer for inside the wheel that has sleeves that extend to the insde of the 25mm bearings. Cost is simple the machining of a new spacer, and one bearing. I use the 17mm axle, sprocket carrier, and brake mounting plate.

Now I just have to check that the width of the wheel I am using is the same as stock.

Thanks for the help. Cheers,
That will not work because the bearings will not have the proper preload. The inner races and the spacer have to stack up and be compressed in order for the wheel bearings to function properly. If you mean that the spacer has a shoulder on it to engage the inner races from the inside, and does not extend the full width of the bearing, then that would be ok.
 

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i changed the bearings as wel the ones i used are SKF 361203R ones with the dimension 17x47x12mm.so the dimesion you need.

henk!!!
Wow, I looked all over for the proper bearing and could not find one. This is a track roller type of bearing, like a wheel. You should have got the 361203 version, since the "R" version has a radius on the outer bearing surface.
 

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Wow, I looked all over for the proper bearing and could not find one. This is a track roller type of bearing, like a wheel. You should have got the 361203 version, since the "R" version has a radius on the outer bearing surface.
hallo,

so did i,it looks like they didn't exist.
do you mean that those bearings are no good to put in wheels?
i asked it to the seller if they can be used in bike wheels and he said that it was no probleme.

henk!!!
 

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hallo,

so did i,it looks like they didn't exist.
do you mean that those bearings are no good to put in wheels?
i asked it to the seller if they can be used in bike wheels and he said that it was no probleme.

henk!!!
The only problem that I can see is that with a rounded outer race surface like that, you won't get good contact with the wheel. I think it would be more likely for the bearing to work loose, or get cocked in the wheel, or something else like that. Let us know how they work out for you. They appear to be durable enough for this application though.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Actually, the wheel I am using is a spoke wheel from a Sport Classic on a 900SS swingarm stuffed into a 1990 750 Sport frame. I'll be making new spacers for the wheels, putting in new bearings that are 2mm wider. So on the sprocket side I will mill off 2mm on the spacer that goes through the sprocket carrier, and make a new spacer for the brake side. I think I got it figured. Now I just need to spend time with my machinist friend.

Cheers,
 

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The only problem that I can see is that with a rounded outer race surface like that, you won't get good contact with the wheel. I think it would be more likely for the bearing to work loose, or get cocked in the wheel, or something else like that. Let us know how they work out for you. They appear to be durable enough for this application though.
hallo,

i did fit them all ready but i didn't drove the bike yet,it's my trackbike so it will take some time but i sure will let it know.

henk!!!
 
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