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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, the saga continues with the quickshifter...From my previous 848 and now in a worse condition with my brand new 2018 SSS.

While you try changing from 4th to 5th and to 6th without the clutch, the engine will choke and lock the wheel for a second or two...yes that is pretty bad.
It usually happens when you are at 4 to 6K RPM and using the quickshifter. I have now 300 miles and it has been happening since out of the showroom with 2 miles on it.

Any ideas, anyone having this issue, I appreciate any input.
Thank you
LCL
 

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Discussion Starter #3
THANKS,

Can you explain why to REV higher than between 4 to 6K RPM to use quick shift?
The fact is, when I use quick shift at low RPM, it is smooth and does the job, it only happens when I REV at this range btween 4 to 6K RPM. Does it make sense?

Please advise, I really appreciate your input.
Cheers
LCL
 

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I saw your post elsewhere on the internet, can't remember if it was a Facebook group or the Supersport939 forum.

Don't pussyfoot the shifter. Don't kill it either though. It's still a Ducati shifter connected to a Ducati transmission, they like firm positive engagement. Don't try to "slip" it nicely into gear, lift it firmly and fully.

One of the recommendations to resolve missed shifts is to adjust the lever lower for better bio-mechanical movement with your foot/ankle/leg - from the factory the shift lever is so high that I had to lift my heel off the peg to get the lever to travel far enough to positively engage the transmission - otherwise I would get a false neutral. I think you said you already adjusted the lever to be lower, but it's a point worth repeating for others who happen on this query in their search for answers.

I have felt some hesitation from the engine with the DQS, where normally it takes 0.2 seconds to shift, the hesitation feels like a full 1 second or longer. It never locked the wheel though, that's really not right. I suspect it's not RPM range, but actually a function engine load and throttle position. Higher loads at a given RPM tend to make the DQS feel much heavier or clunkier and cause more delay between shifter input and the actual shift. Try slightly reducing your pressure on the throttle, if you're at 3/4 throttle ease it off to 5/8 throttle to unload the engine slightly. When the DQS is engaged on an upshift it's killing the ignition to reduce RPMs to match the next gear, do this and you're helping it along a little.

In my experience, the DQS works best when not being run under full abuse, which is counter to almost everyone else's experience. Mine is buttery smooth all over when I'm not hard on the throttle or trying to throw out a boat anchor with my back tire at 9000 RPM. The harder I flog the bike the choppier it feels.

Edit - all that said, have you been to a reputable dealer for your first service and/or to have this specifically addressed? It is a new bike and should behave like one.
 
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My experience with QS's is that they work well at higher RPM's as stated above. I have ridden the new S but having had a similliar system on my old 675R usually use the clutch lever unless over 5K on the revs. When I test rode the S as you have, I used it above 5k with good effect, the bike only had 160 miles on it so I didn't exceed 8K on the clocks out of consideration. I am on my 6th Ducati and every one I have had needed good fresh oil for the Tranny to work well. Don't know how many miles you have on your particular bike, but changing to a good full synthetic oil always smooths out the tranny.


Your problem may be the ECU too many milliseconds on the electronic cut off. Generally QS's cut spark and injection for X amount of Millis, this makes for a smooth engagement. I do not know if you can program a shorter or longer cut with your ECU. The ECU the 675r came with was easy to program through Tune Boy. The stock programming on that machine was about 40 milliseconds if I remember correctly, I found full throttle shifts worked better at about 15-20 milliseconds.

I do not believe QS's should be utilized without the lever without full throttle shifts. Otherwise, just use the lever.

Just my opinion, but as you stated, your wheel actually locks is interesting. I would be happy to hear what you find out. I have ridden the BMW xr1000 which has up and down electronic cuts, it seemed seamless, however, being a 4 cylinder motor, probably was using it at above 6k, it too was under a couple hundred miles, but it was pretty damn smooth.. those damn Germans got that transmission pretty dialed. I think the Italians like sloppy transmissions.

Cheers,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I saw your post elsewhere on the internet, can't remember if it was a Facebook group or the Supersport939 forum.

Don't pussyfoot the shifter. Don't kill it either though. It's still a Ducati shifter connected to a Ducati transmission, they like firm positive engagement. Don't try to "slip" it nicely into gear, lift it firmly and fully.

One of the recommendations to resolve missed shifts is to adjust the lever lower for better bio-mechanical movement with your foot/ankle/leg - from the factory the shift lever is so high that I had to lift my heel off the peg to get the lever to travel far enough to positively engage the transmission - otherwise I would get a false neutral. I think you said you already adjusted the lever to be lower, but it's a point worth repeating for others who happen on this query in their search for answers.

I have felt some hesitation from the engine with the DQS, where normally it takes 0.2 seconds to shift, the hesitation feels like a full 1 second or longer. It never locked the wheel though, that's really not right. I suspect it's not RPM range, but actually a function engine load and throttle position. Higher loads at a given RPM tend to make the DQS feel much heavier or clunkier and cause more delay between shifter input and the actual shift. Try slightly reducing your pressure on the throttle, if you're at 3/4 throttle ease it off to 5/8 throttle to unload the engine slightly. When the DQS is engaged on an upshift it's killing the ignition to reduce RPMs to match the next gear, do this and you're helping it along a little.

In my experience, the DQS works best when not being run under full abuse, which is counter to almost everyone else's experience. Mine is buttery smooth all over when I'm not hard on the throttle or trying to throw out a boat anchor with my back tire at 9000 RPM. The harder I flog the bike the choppier it feels.

Edit - all that said, have you been to a reputable dealer for your first service and/or to have this specifically addressed? It is a new bike and should behave like one.
Hello there and thank you for the suggestions.
I had other Ducatis with DQS before, and did not have similar problem like this new SSS.

I am doing pretty much what you suggested, but it still cuts off the power going to the rear wheel! engine power is cut for an actual second or two.

When you say " have felt some hesitation from the engine with the DQS, where normally it takes 0.2 seconds to shift, the hesitation feels like a full 1 second or longer" do you mean that the power is totally SHUT OFF or you mean just an hesitation from the gear changing?
Thank again, and please let me know if possible.
LCL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My experience with QS's is that they work well at higher RPM's as stated above. I have ridden the new S but having had a similliar system on my old 675R usually use the clutch lever unless over 5K on the revs. When I test rode the S as you have, I used it above 5k with good effect, the bike only had 160 miles on it so I didn't exceed 8K on the clocks out of consideration. I am on my 6th Ducati and every one I have had needed good fresh oil for the Tranny to work well. Don't know how many miles you have on your particular bike, but changing to a good full synthetic oil always smooths out the tranny.


Your problem may be the ECU too many milliseconds on the electronic cut off. Generally QS's cut spark and injection for X amount of Millis, this makes for a smooth engagement. I do not know if you can program a shorter or longer cut with your ECU. The ECU the 675r came with was easy to program through Tune Boy. The stock programming on that machine was about 40 milliseconds if I remember correctly, I found full throttle shifts worked better at about 15-20 milliseconds.

I do not believe QS's should be utilized without the lever without full throttle shifts. Otherwise, just use the lever.

Just my opinion, but as you stated, your wheel actually locks is interesting. I would be happy to hear what you find out. I have ridden the BMW xr1000 which has up and down electronic cuts, it seemed seamless, however, being a 4 cylinder motor, probably was using it at above 6k, it too was under a couple hundred miles, but it was pretty damn smooth.. those damn Germans got that transmission pretty dialed. I think the Italians like sloppy transmissions.

Cheers,

Mark
Thanks for the input, I totally agree about those GERMAN tranny, I also own a BMW and it is REALLY smooth and without any hesitation or issues.
My SSS has 300 miles only, will bring into service in two weeks from now and will keep you all updated.
Cheers
LCL
 

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Is there something preventing you from discussing this with the dealer ? Seems as if that would be a good first step. For all you know this could be a known glitch with an easy fix. To continue to to ride your brand new bike with a safety issue doesn’t seem real prudent.
 
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