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Hi All,
I just completed a valve adjust and belt change and other 18k service tasks on my 2016 MTS 1200 Enduro with the DVT engine.
I had looked through this forum for information and knowledge about the DVT engine Valve and Belt work, and I posted my inquiry as such, with really not much useful information gathered, and no one I found on this site who had actually completed a DIY , DVT Valve Belt service.
I did find one person along the way, who was almost complete with his DIY engine service on his DVT Multistrada, and he shared a lot with me in text and e-mail which was very very helpful!!!! Many Thanks again!
So I hope in this brief explanation to give some information that I wish I had found when I started.
I studied for about a month before I began and then chose my own path from the pieces of information I was able to find.
I used the Ducati Multistrada T.D.C. CONTROL GAUGE - 887135009 set in place with longer M6 bolts with the horizontal belt still on, in order to learn how the crank lined up when hand cranking the engine. It takes 40 rotations to go from a Home position, such as the factory crank dot lined up exactly with the case mark and have it return exactly to the same alignment. However any previous belt alignment marks DO NOT line up again.
To begin the work, I marked the belts and Cam pulleys as described in this Very Excellent video by Brotheus here is the link:
Thank You Brotheus!!!!
Then I pulled the belts with the crank cog lined up in the "home Position set with the TDC control tool, and the vertical cylinder Cams set with My shop made cam lock tool, and immediately reset the TDC control tool back in place now with the belts removed.
I then proceeded to change out all 16 shims in both cylinders, ( multiple times to get the clearances right} and change out the old belts for new ones, and I NEVER MOVED THE CRANK , during the the entire process !!
I created several different versions of Fail Safe Valve holding methods and tools to secure the Vertical cylinder valves during the shim work, so they would not drop into the cylinder void, as only the Horizontal cylinder is at TDC with the control tool in place.
there is of course a great deal more details and subtlety involved in this work and wise planning and steady patients is a great asset.
Also there are anomalies in the Ducati factory workshop manual, such as the Vertical cylinder belt has 22 teeth between alignment marks as described, however the Horizontal belt has 23!!!
I hope this short description helps anyone considering this work on there DVT engine.
I chose to freeze the crank with the TDC control tool because I simply do not have enough knowledge about the consequences of attempting to rotate the DVT Engine crank to get the Vertical cylinder to TDC so as to not lose a valve, and possibly lose the timing.
I chose to create this work around ( valve holding methods and tools) so I would not be required to rotate the DVT engine until everything, Valves,and Belts were completed.
I have over 1,250 miles now on my bike/engine after my valve / belt work, and my bike has never ran Better!!!!
Best......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes thank you again also !!!!!
I am glad we were able to figure out the 23 tooth Horizontal cylinder belt anomaly.
This discovery helped me to be much more aware and discerning when using the Ducati workshop manual for my bike.!!
 

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Hi Strider,

I am doing the valve adjustment on my Multistrada DVT right now: nice to see that I'm not the only one playing with the desmo on a DVT!
I have a few questions, maybe you can help me:

  • Do you find necessary the tool to fix the position of the cam shafts?
  • in order to replace the valve shims, you need to remove the cam shafts, right?
  • not totally related to valve adjustment: what wrench have you used to replace the side spark plug on the vertical cylinder? the space there is very limited, I guess it's not possible to use a torque meter...
Thanks!
 

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  • Do you find necessary the tool to fix the position of the cam shafts? This makes it easier to hold the Vertical cams in place against the valve springs in order to put on the belt.
  • in order to replace the valve shims, you need to remove the cam shafts, right? Correct
  • not totally related to valve adjustment: what wrench have you used to replace the side spark plug on the vertical cylinder? the space there is very limited, I guess it's not possible to use a torque meter... I used a hollow socket and ratchet set from Harbor Freight.
Warren
 

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[*]not totally related to valve adjustment: what wrench have you used to replace the side spark plug on the vertical cylinder? the space there is very limited, I guess it's not possible to use a torque meter...
[/LIST]

Thanks!
For this I use a simple trick, do the top plugs first using a torque wrench and note how much turn you added after finger tightening.

If my memory is correct I think after i tighten them with fingers I add half a turn with a wrench. But verify yourself, my memory have been known to fail.
 

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I am doing to valve clearance check on my 2016 mts 1200 dvt. I have a shop manual online for 2015, are the clearance measurements the same for ‘15 and ‘16? What do you use as a recommended clearance, between the two limits or towards the tighter or looser size? Excellent video by brotheous , i watched it a few time and picked up some good tips each time. I hope I get this all back together properly, 30000kms so far and only need for the shop was a recall for some small disc in front master cylinder.
 

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I am doing to valve clearance check on my 2016 mts 1200 dvt. I have a shop manual online for 2015, are the clearance measurements the same for ‘15 and ‘16? What do you use as a recommended clearance, between the two limits or towards the tighter or looser size? Excellent video by brotheous , i watched it a few time and picked up some good tips each time. I hope I get this all back together properly, 30000kms so far and only need for the shop was a recall for some small disc in front master cylinder.
No, the valve clearance is the same.
I try to use the smallest clearance possible for the closing register: the smaller, the better.
Many years ago (around 25, I guess) I met Aldeo Presciutti, a private pilot in the World Superbike Championship at that time, racing with a 916. His mechanics told me that they used to set the clearance of the closing registers at a -0.01mm! I'm not saying we should do the same: it's very difficult to measure a negative clearance, and most of all our modern cams are much thinner where no load is supposed to be present: a negative clearance would introduce a load just over there.
On Desmodue engines I used to get very close to zero, but they are much easier to be adjusted. With this engine I will aim to the minimum allowed (0.05mm) and I will accept a smaller result. For the opening register I will still try to be close to the minimum, but there it's important to have no less than the minimum clearance prescribed.
 
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