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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a bit overdue for my fork service and it is mainly because I can not figure out what h#ll Ducati means by "OJ RACIN SPECIAL FORK Sae 3.6 at 100' - 14.4 at 40' " or where to get it. The closest fluid that I can find with those specs is AeroShell Fluid 31

Who has serviced their Skyhook Fork 2013/14? What oil did you use and how'd it go?

Thanks,
t_bare
 

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Are you doing your own service?

I do most of my own services but taking the inverted forks off and dealing with the extra complexity of the electronics/seals didn’t appeal to me. I bit the bullet and had the dealer do it. Also had them upgrade the fork springs and rear spring as well.

This was for a 2012 with Ohlins, so can’t help on the fork oil question.


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Discussion Starter #3
Motul Very Light Looks pretty close too.

t_bare
 

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For forks the only viscosity spec worth worrying about is at 40 deg C. Forks will never get to 100 deg C so for this application is meaningless. Find an oil that comes close to the 40 degc spec and you are good to go.


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Discussion Starter #6
I've been using that chart and a couple like it. Looks Like I am going to go with Torco RSF Light. I've exchanged emails with Torco to confirm the Racing Shock Fluid is ok to use in forks and they assured me that it will work well; the difference between the RSF and RFF, Racing Fork Fluid, is the RSF is 100% synthetic and the RFF is a blend. The synthetic holds up better do to the short heat producing action of a shock.

Now on to that stupid 10 sided 50mm cap...

t_bare
 

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I serviced my 2013 1200s forks last year in hopes that new oil would improve the damping in the forks. I used Shell 7.5 # oil with a VI of 153, 580cc in the left fork, 660cc in the right fork. Yes, the oil was dirty from 26,000 klms of use, the intended maintenance of replacing the oil that actually dampens the suspension is not achieved without disassembling the closed/ sealed cartridge in the left fork leg that the electronic skyhook damper servo lives and works inside. The large factory service manual available to the nondealer world does not instruct or describe the R & R of this damper cartridge, even some Ducati dealers that I spoke to have not done this service.
If someone has a link or info on this procedure I would be grateful to know of it.
 

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Are you doing your own service?

I do most of my own services but taking the inverted forks off and dealing with the extra complexity of the electronics/seals didn’t appeal to me. I bit the bullet and had the dealer do it. Also had them upgrade the fork springs and rear spring as well.


Opus, I would like to know what front and rear spring rates the dealer installed. The brand and part # straight rate or progressive wound. How did the ride improve? I have found my bike has far too much front-end dive during heavy braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I serviced my 2013 1200s forks last year in hopes that new oil would improve the damping in the forks. I used Shell 7.5 # oil with a VI of 153, 580cc in the left fork, 660cc in the right fork. Yes, the oil was dirty from 26,000 klms of use, the intended maintenance of replacing the oil that actually dampens the suspension is not achieved without disassembling the closed/ sealed cartridge in the left fork leg that the electronic skyhook damper servo lives and works inside. The large factory service manual available to the nondealer world does not instruct or describe the R & R of this damper cartridge, even some Ducati dealers that I spoke to have not done this service.
If someone has a link or info on this procedure I would be grateful to know of it.
Welcome to the conversation,

What did you use to open the 10 sided 50mm caps?

t_bare
 

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I have used a very large crescent wrench, then made a multi-pin tool, 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate with holes drilled in the same pattern as the fork cap, that slides drill bits into the holes around the cap. The torque on the fork tube cap is very low so once you have loosened the triple clamp bolts opens very easily.
 

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I had to remove both of my forks for seal replacement (not both at once thank God). But even with the pinch bolts totally removed from the upper and lower clamps, I had to forcibly pry the lower clamp open in order to widen the gap enough to drop the tube. It was a right PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Back from the dead.

I've finally gotten around to this project. The service manual is very little help as the electronic fork side is not at all detailed. you must remove the cartridge in order to change the seals because the is a wire and large plug holding everything together. When removing the electronic side spin the tube while holding the cap and the fork bottom stationary in order not the twist the wire. On the dummy side I found a good amount of wear on the inner bushing 48 O.D. x 20 x 1 The oil came out nasty and the insides needed a lot of cleaning. The electronic cartridge is sealed and pressurize so no oil going in or out, best I can tell the oil is only lubrication and keeping the seals wet.

Factoids:
*Motorex 2.5 wt oil closely matches the oil specified in the manual
*KITG-48Z seal kit is the SKF seals/wipers for a 2015 BETA 300 RR that fit the Sachs fork. $74 at Rocky Mountain ATV for both sets.
*The 50mm 10 sided cap is not very tight and was easily removed with a tool I 3d Printed. I am glad I did not order the special tool. If you want the tool it is available on Ebay and possible at a BETA dealer.

t_bare
 
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Discussion Starter #15
About 28k

t_bare
 

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14.4 at 40, is quite a light weight oil, 20 at 40 is around 5weight oil, so as above 2.5 weight would be in the ball park. not all oil manufactures oil weights match each other. but Motorex 2.5 is close to 14.4at 40. its what I've fitted in my 790.
 

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14.4 at 40, is quite a light weight oil, 20 at 40 is around 5weight oil, so as above 2.5 weight would be in the ball park. not all oil manufactures oil weights match each other. but Motorex 2.5 is close to 14.4at 40. its what I've fitted in my 790.
The #5 Ohlins is 19cSt @ 40C, which is what the Ohlins on my '10 calls for.
 

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Back from the dead.

I've finally gotten around to this project. The service manual is very little help as the electronic fork side is not at all detailed. you must remove the cartridge in order to change the seals because the is a wire and large plug holding everything together. When removing the electronic side spin the tube while holding the cap and the fork bottom stationary in order not the twist the wire. On the dummy side I found a good amount of wear on the inner bushing 48 O.D. x 20 x 1 The oil came out nasty and the insides needed a lot of cleaning. The electronic cartridge is sealed and pressurize so no oil going in or out, best I can tell the oil is only lubrication and keeping the seals wet.

Factoids:
*Motorex 2.5 wt oil closely matches the oil specified in the manual
*KITG-48Z seal kit is the SKF seals/wipers for a 2015 BETA 300 RR that fit the Sachs fork. $74 at Rocky Mountain ATV for both sets.
*The 50mm 10 sided cap is not very tight and was easily removed with a tool I 3d Printed. I am glad I did not order the special tool. If you want the tool it is available on Ebay and possible at a BETA dealer.

t_bare
t_bare... That seal was for which year bike? Apologies if it was mentioned previous in the thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
t_bare... That seal was for which year bike? Apologies if it was mentioned previous in the thread.
13-14 definitely. Possibly other Sachs forks

t_bare
 
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